Prichard XT

time to do some reading up I think I assumed Bov Would Do The Trick As There Easyer To Adjust and do the same job Got Any Links To Suggest

Where Can I Find a Plenum Small Enough To Fit 32 - 36 mm Intake, Would A BOV Not Do The Job Then From Experience I Want IT Runing Around The 12 PSI Force And Drop The Compression Ratio To 7 : 1 Finally Started striping Down The 250 To Respray And Modify Found Out It Runs A Mitsubishi Electrical System Il Have A Few Pictures Soon Now Its Been Moved To Our Workshop I Can Crack On

Turbo is exhaust driven Supercharger Is engine driven but it will need some sort of pressure release system between charger and engine BOV seems to fit that purpose I have been on hold on this project due to unforeseen circumstance But went and had a look at the 250 yesterday and it should be in the bike running Stock in a month or 2 then il start on the charger

I always use murco super un leaded the XT doesn't like shell fuel at all ?

welcome from another midlander

hears a 2013 big cc smoker Maico 685 http://www.mxlynx.com/2013/05/maico-685-cross-2013-beast.html

so the other day iv pulled me bike out jumped on rode off, I get to the end of my road and just about to join an roundabout and the engine cuts out . . . WTF keep trying to start it nothing. pulled choke in and it start then after 15 - 20 seconds cuts out and wont start I keep trying nothing cant even smell petrol come through Hmm, so I bust out mini tool kit open up the carb bleed to see if the carbs getting petrol, nope no petrol id all ready checked the petrol tank when it first cut out so iv isolated it the fault to the vacuum tap to the float needle (pray it wasn't the float needle) took the petrol hose of the vacuum tap and check its operation... petrol pisses out, blow down the petrol hose to the carb nothings passing through. . . shit needle jam iv had this problem before and im not having the carb in bits again iv got somewhere to be trying to think of ways to unblock it tried taping the carb till it drops (worked previously) nothing running out of ideas here, I remembered I had a mini tyre pump in my bag worth a shot so I placed it on the hose end over the pump, 5 presses in and I here a tss come from the carb and can freely blow in to the carbs petrol hose. Fucking yes reconnected every thing and petrol starts to come out the carb bleed Yes Yes Yes I was quite literally jumping up and down, tighted up the bleed and gave it 10 seconds on the starter it lives RESULT so my quick solution if ya carb float needles jammed a tyre pump on the petrol feed hose will unblock it I went and grabbed some redex to clean out any shit that made it through any one else got any amazing roadside bodges I once whent 10 miles with only an elastic band holding my engine sprocket on, after sprocket and the retainer shot off while heading home 6am sunday morning

best allround on/off road tyre on the market in my opinion Metzeler Unicross im on my 3rd set now and they are amazing dry or wet tarmac they have never failed me and as on/off roader tyres go on the dirt sand and gravel they bite the floor and away you go they last a good 4000 - 6000 miles on a 125 on road very aggressive tread pattern bad news is you cant get them any where as the don't produce them any more also for tyres I seriously suggest using openeo.com free delivery (2-3days) cheapest around shipped from poland if I can get me a set for cheap il give em a go though

yep they run the Yamaha YZF125R (R6 Replica) engine as does the Yamaha WR125 they might have some differences like gearing ratio, valve height and external parts fuel system down pipes but the same engine

hahaha iv just realised is im going to be super charging this im gonna need a BOV/dump valve but first things first get the engine in and running just waiting till Friday so I can buy the cdi and coil

nope I think theres only one and a spare in the back of the starter solenoid holder and neutral is also a kill switch for when the clutch (kill switch) is engaged before starting find where that spark came from or do as I did run it on 30amp fuse that problem connection/wire will will soon start smoking then you will know which one and just trace in a new one ^I don't seriously suggest this^ it was just my lazy way of finding a problem wire but it worked, its just lucky nothing else blew

this had me in stitches

no there is supposed to be oil in bothsides for definite you can be sure of this also by the starter motor being stator side that will need oil on the gears whats actually wrong with it dose it start at all, any funny sounds nocking or smells burning oil or electrics, what colour is the exhaust smoke the only oil seal I could think that would cause it to die and still be holding oil would be the piston oil ring and is letting oil up past the piston that would usually be down to there being to much oil or a blocked crankcase breather so how many miles has it done do you self service keep on it tho mate its the worst pain seeing ya bike and not being able to ride it need any pointers message us

mate isn't there supposed to be oil in the crankcase flywheel side well there is in mine also how much oil was left in the engine when you emptied it