NEV

Aye keep with it, you've put some graft into that bike mate.

I wouldn't have thought it was the new/second hand bike sales that let them down, we have a George Whites in Torbay, that recently took over the GT Motorcycle franchise, and whenever going to order parts from them, they'd tell you they'd have it in two weeks, so the choice is either two weeks, and you have to go pick it up from them, or get on Ebay and have it delivered in 6 days, no brainer really, there will be a few more bike shops go to the wall I reckon, due to this.

Dave I'm not 100% here, but would the reason that it was an insurance write off, can't remember off hand which categary they give it, but it would be because the frame is damaged in some way, is there no way you can take it somewhere to check the frame/geomatry, and get it re-jigged if nessesssary, then get a certificate of proof that the frame is 100% ok to show DVLA, the only other time you can't use a frame is if the police have impounded a bike for scrapping and the scrappers are allowed to sell the parts but not the frame or v5 with it.

Feel for ya mate, must be so bleeding frustrating,

Well I've finally got round to the second stage of my project which is to SuperMoto it, have managed to find a set of Paoli TDR forks, Brembo front caliper, and a set of TDR stainless spoked wheels, 18" front 17" rear, I'll use the 17" rear till I can sort out and powdercoat an 18" rim and hub, then lace it up with some stainless spokes. Picking it all up end of the month from Bristol. From what I gather I just have to sort out a speedo cable as the DT one is different to the TDR one at the speedo drive. The chap flogging it says it's got decent Dunlop Arrow Max tyres on the wheels, has anybody used these type on their bike? or do I need to source some other better tyres? Cheers Nev

Wishing everyone on the forum a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year,and cheers Paul (OG) for all the help along the way, with my project this year.

Cheers lads, I'm waiting for the bloke who I bought the p/v servo and stuff to get back to me, with any luck he'll still have the bush kicking about somewhere, although I reckon I'll be getting a new oil seal and O ring.

Aye OG, I reckoned part 17 to be a holder/bush same as 20 in the top diagram, and could live with having to buy parts 19 ('O' ring), & 18 (oil seal) at £13 ( 2nd diagram)if needs be, but at nigh on £40 as well for part 17, was hoping I could get away with still using part 20 (top) 21 is just a gasket. From what I gather part 19 (top) is for locking the P/V in position, as it has a locking pin (shielded from view) which I presume goes into 20, whereas when setting up the servo type, part 19 locks onto the P/V using the diamond shaped male end on the P/V and a diamond shaped female hole on the pulley, and you still have to insert an allen key or similar through a locating hole on and (I'm guessing here on part 17) to tempararily hold it in place, before tightening up the P/V end screw. Trouble is the more I look at it, the more I reckon I've got to swap 20 with 17.

Recently bought a power valve servo, pulley housing, pulley and cables, so I can change my set up from a manually pinned non servo set up, to a servo run powervalve assembly, I noticed that one of the cables is just starting to fray at one end,and needs replacing, whilst looking through the parts list, so as to get the correct cable, as one is 220mm, and the other 240mm, noticed there is a difference in the two types of powervalve assemblies. Originally I was under the impression, I just had to take the cover off mine, replace that with the pulley housing, attach the pulley on to the end of the power valve, set up the cables to the power valve, put the end cover back on and off I went. But as I say looking at the two parts drawings, on mine (non servo) there is part number 20 which looks like it sits over the end of the P/V, acting as some sort of bush, and on the servo type, parts drawing there are parts 17, 18, and 19, my question is do I have to replace my part 20, with parts 17, 18, and 19, or can I get away with just bolting straight on, as I was firstly going to do? Cheers Nev . Non servo type P/V Servo type P/V

My bike is like my missus... because she needs a couple of kicks to get her going, big carb intake, heads slightly warped, so overheats now and again, has modified rear end, and can sometimes sound a bit cranky, but on the whole pretty reliable, and the kids love her And Jack Delve you tell Jill this, and I'll spit in your next bacon sandwich.

Ha ha ha ha DT Jinx padlock, lol I was just about to write that, verbatum

What I like about all that, is that he has a workshop like he does, and yet still has to take his parts into the house when needs be, and doing the annodising in the kitchen sink, top bloke!!

It ain't fawny Dirty, by the way that dog's fallowing those deer, it's obvious the dogs playin a game with his owner, and sounds like the owners having a Hart attack

The style of bike may not be everyones cup of tea, but hats off to the bloke for all the hard work and effort he's put into the bike, certainly rocks my boat!! http://homepage.ntlworld.com/shaun.wainford/SWSVXThmb.html http://homepage.ntlworld.com/shaun.wainford/Progress2.html

Oh deer

To be honest I first thought it was an XT

And the winner of the guess the bike model 583 goes to Dirty

Congrats mate Altogether now http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8bHL_5eawxs#t=56s

Dan when copying the code to paste in here, highlight in blue, FORUM CODE, then copy and paste that, looks like you've highlighted, then copied and pasted 'forum thumbnail' code instead, mate

John, I know you have your mind set on putting the xt600 into a TZR frame, and fair play to ya sounds like a good project, but something I'd suggest just as another way to go with it, and give you a fourth option, is to Supermoto it, by putting 18" rims front and back, and then finding some sports tyres, seen a few done this way, and to be honest have thought about doing it myself.

Earlier this year, I put a 100cc Speedfight engine into a 50c Speedfight frame,(exactly same frame as a 100cc) DVLA said they needed a motorbike engineers report to say it had been done properly, asking for it to be put on headed paper. So got a local bike workshop owner I know, to put down on paper what they needed to know and sent it off with the old v5, couple of weeks later new and changed v5 came back.

Triton John kindly sent me this 'how to' for re-spoking the other week, as I need to re-lace a 21" front hub into a rear 18" rim, so I can run a Supermoto set up. Thought it might come in handy in this thread Spoke Wheel Lacing I like Spoke Wheels. They just look good ! But, unfortunately, it seems looks is as far as anyone ever goes with wire spoke wheels. They need regular maintenance, but seldom get it. The problem with spokes and nipples is that they do, over a period of time, get loose. Lots of times no one notices that they are loose till they fail. A quick, down and dirty way of testing them is to just tap them. A loose spoke will have a dull sound, while a tight spoke will have a hi pitched, tinkly sound. Go try tapping some spokes and you will see what I mean. If you have some loose spokes you will need to tighten them with a spoke wrench. Tighten the loose spoke until it has a nice ring to it. Now, you would think that all the spokes would need to have the same sound to have the same tightness, but this is not really true. Tap the spokes of a new bike with no miles on it and you will see they have different tones. New wheels are put together with nice new parts, special spoke torque wrenches, and people who actually know how to assemble wheels. I think we can safely assume that the new wheels are trued and torqued right, but the ones I've tried have different sounds. Very similar to be sure, but different. So I just tighten the loose ones till they have a nice ring to them, and leave it at that. Sometimes we find a spoke has broken. Depending on which spoke has broken, you may be able to replace it. If not, you can tape or wire it to another spoke, or cut it out. I leave the old nipple in to fill the hole in the rim. Lots of dirt racers wire spokes together where they cross so if one breaks it will not wrap or flail around the wheel. One broken spoke is usually not much of a problem. Two is not so good, but as long as they are not close together you should be OK. Three means you had better deal with things real soon and if they are close together the wheel could fail very suddenly. <center> DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE IN THIS CONDITION.</center> So, we find our wheel has a bunch of broken spokes or a broken hub and things are not going well. We have several choices. Get a new wheel assembly. This is very expensive. I would do this only if the bike is very new and the wheel really trashed. Replace the broken spokes, rim, and/or hub. Then relace and true the wheel. This would seem to be the best way except for a couple of things. The spoke nipples, on older bikes, often get rusted so tight to the spoke you can't get them off without cutting the spoke. The spoke nipples, on a high performance bike, can stretch the threads on the nipple and spoke. This can lock them together. This, in turn makes you cut all the spokes off. The spoke and nipple sets for some bikes only cost $30.00, which is not too bad. However, I know at least one high performance dirt racer who's spokes cost almost $200.00 for the set. [*]Get a used wheel. If you have an older bike, I think the best plan is to look for a used wheel at a motorcycle salvage yard. Check both the spokes, and the truing of the wheel before you buy the wheel and plan to replace the wheel bearings. The cost of the used wheel will be a lot less than going any other way. If you must go the wheel relacing route, here are some things to remember. Count how many spokes there are, 36, 40, whatever. You must have the same number of spokes in the rim as in the hub (well, DUH !). The replacement spokes have to be of the right length, and gauge (diameter). The spokes have to have the right ends. That is, with no bend in the head, some bend, or a lot of bend. Straight spokes with no bend in the head are the strongest. Most spoke wheels do not use tubeless tires BUT, some DO, the spokes being off set in the rim, so there is an airtight seal. There are different thread pitches too, but as long as the spokes and nipples are the same, who cares, right ? OK, we looked for a new wheel and found nothing. So we got a new rim or hub, got all our spoke nipples loosened, and are ready to do it to it. Now this is how I do it. I don't do very many wheels so I find this way to work best for me. I tie each pair of spokes (Right and left sides together) together with some wire. I then take all the nipples off the spokes. I then take the rim off the spokes. I then cut the wire on one of the spoke pairs and remove the two spokes. Then I put them into the new hub, or replace them with new ones. I do this 'cuse I aren't too smart. I get confused easily. There can be as many as four different types of spokes on a wheel with a conical hub. Two different types of spoke ends and two different lengths. Most times there are just two different spoke types per wheel. I keep changing spoke pairs and rewiring them together till all the parts are replaced. If you are doing a lot of wheels and they are all the same, you will not have to do this. It will become second nature to you. But if you are only doing one wheel, this method will save you time and aggravation. Now screw in the nipples the same amount on each spoke and finger tight. Take the assembled wheel and put it on the bike and tighten the axle. If it's a rear wheel, adjust it like you would if you where adjusting the rear chain. Now comes the fun part. Truing the wheel. You wheel must be no more then two, onehunderths of an inch in out of roundness and side play. Set up a dial micrometer to measure out of roundness and side play. If it is a dirt bike wheel and it doesn't go very fast and your not too picky, you can fix a piece of wire as a pointer, instead. Set the pointer of the micrometer so that it almost touches the inside of the rims. Now turn the wheel. You will see rim move up and down. Now here comes the tricky part. Locate the spoke (call it #1) that is at the highest point of the wheel. Tighten it a little. Then tighten four or five spokes (#s 2,3,4,5) on each side of that (#1) spoke. Tighten each one a little less as you get further from the highest (#1) spoke. If you tighten the highest (#1) spoke one turn then tighten the next spoke three quarter of a turn, the next half a turn, the next a quarter turn. Do this on either side of the highest (#1) spoke. Now turn the wheel, again find the highest spoke (point) and do it all over again. After a while the height of the highest point on the rim will get smaller and smaller. Soon you will be turning each spoke only a little bit. Once you are pretty close, and before the spokes are real tight, change and measure the side play. Set the dial indicator point on the side of the rim, and spin the wheel. Pick the point of the rim that moves furthest to the right. Again tighten the nipple on the (call it #1) spoke at that point, however, make sure that that spoke (#1) goes to the opposite side of the hub. Now tighten every other spoke (#s 2,3,4), ahead and behind of that spoke (#1), decreasing the amount of the tightening on each spoke as you get further away from the first (#1) spoke. Make sure all the spokes you tighten go to the left side of the hub. This will pull the rim to the left. Spin the wheel again, find the high spot, or rather high side spot, and do it all again. You will need to keep measuring side play and out of roundness, back and forth, as you tighten the nipples. Also, remember to keep the rim centered in relationship to the swingarm or front fork tubes, depending on whether you are doing a rear or front wheel. When I say turn the #1 spoke on either side play or out-of-round one turn I don't necessarily mean one turn. Use your head. You may need to turn it several turns OR only a half or quarter turn. Same with each of the other spokes before and after the #1 spoke. Turn them in proportion to the amount you turned the #1 spoke. Each one a little less than the one before it. #1 one turn, #2 half turn, #3 quarter turn, #4 one eighth turn, ETC. In some instances you might have to loosen or tighten the spoke nipples on the opposite side of the wheel to the ones you are working on, too. Got it ? If you don't completely understand, reread the above till you do. Do it wrong and with each adjustment things will get further and further out of kilter ! If things start going wrong, STOP. Try doing the OPPOSITE of what you were doing. If things are still going wrong, loosen all the spokes up and start over. DON'T just keep tightening things up and further out of whack. You can really bend up a rim by being bull headed and just driving on no matter what. Take note, you may have to go back and loosen the nipples or tighten the nipples to get the rim to move into the right position. You may have to experiment a bit, before everything starts to come together. Go SLOW. Lots and lots of small adjustments is the trick. You will want to have the rim centered, trued, and round before you get the spoke nipples real tight. This means no more that two, onehunderedths (2/100") of an inch out of true, both side and out of round. Doing it better than that would not hurt anything, especially if you like going fast. Faster you go, the truer it needs to be. Once this is done, tighten up all the spokes about half a turn at a time. Keeping a sharp eye on all three things, center alignment, side movement and out-of-roundness, tighten the spokes till they make a nice crisp sound. If you happen to have a spoke torque wrench, use it now to set the right torque. Check everything one last time ands make sure the spokes do not protrude through the nipple, possibly putting a hole in the tube. If they stick through, grind them down. Remember, this is the trick. If you want to get this done right and as quick as possible, GO SLOW. Try to do this fast and you will just screw things up and it will take forever to get it right. Lots of little, tiny adjustments. Hundreds of them. That's the way to go. Personally I reckon all this info would do well as a 'sticky'

Nah after about 75 it feels like the SS Enterprise going through a wormhole, you probably could get to 80 or 90, but ya don't bloody want to, it says top speed in my manual is 100 btw. As for looking after it, you can be the judge of that URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/myyamaha600e.jpg/]