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Hi look at the carb on here I think this is yours if it'll show you where they are ok. http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xj600sfc-1994_model10128/partslist/B-03.html

Haynes manual will say you shouldn't but you will be able to , it should tell you how many turns out they should be . You can turn all the way in ( clockwise ), just until you feel resistance count & remember how many so you can always return to this setting . Then back out the same number. To weaken the mix turn in a quarter of a turn at a time ,it should be done with engine hot & let it settle.

I ended up with a sore ring , to much ale & a vindalooooo on the stag do

Yes I can see this could be the cause,as the slide is stepping down the taper & not settling propperly , You could try Granbys http://granbymotors.co.uk/spares.php?lnk=Yamaha & here is a link its fo 1999 but I dont think the idle screw would be any different http://www.oemmotorparts.eu/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=SR 125&Y=1999&L=YA-SR-125&O=CARBURETOR&F=YA-SR-125_ah&L2=YA-SR-125_ah ,

Hi this might help ? http://www.cmsnl.com/products/oil-seal_2k52314500/ or this http://motorcycleproducts.co.uk/catalogue/fork-seals-yamaha-sr250-197984-p-165938.html

Yes we know its just a bit of comparison!

Yeh my mate decided to have a look at & get his Lomax with a Citroen 2cv flat 2 lump out of his sons garage to prepare for mot, its been untouched for 5 year. We put a fully charged battery on cleaned plugs,fired up first time & sounded spot on & these are somewhat like motorbike engines 600cc . We ran it for a while just in the yard ,then put it back in the garage this was about 5 weeks ago & I wouldn't be surprised if its still there for another 5 years ! ( I'll show him this post it might gee him up a bit )

Hi ...I think you will find if you remove the top stud from the oil filter & turn the motor over you will have oil all over your shoes . The one you say is on the cylinder is the bleed screw just loosen this off a turn or two after oil change & then turn it over for up to a minute until you see oil on the thread.

hI..You have to empty the oil out first to have any chance of seperating them , You should lower the forks a few inches in the yoke retighten pinch bolt ,undo top bolt then empty oil, & remove spring ect. put the flat bottom of leg in a soft faced vice or with blocks of wood & ram them out like slide hammer action . Edit. when I say top bolt not the one that hold forks in I mean the bung that is threaded in the top of tube ,though some Srs just have a O ring at the top that is sealed by the top bolts ,there are no bolts at the bottom of these forks . ok R

Dont know if its two or three prong just ask http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOOK-GENUINE-YAMAHA-SR125-SR-125-1992-SPEEDO-DRIVE-/200495866570?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eae7c22ca

Hi & welcome Bartek enjoy ! I have been reading your posts are you wired up right or what ?

Vurrie fanny live the last one

The black one at the bottom is for draining ,thee clear one is overflow , neigher connect to anything . thankyou !

Well for a kick off I would say the pilot screw should be 1&3/4 turns out But you may be right as its an early model so I can't be sure & you will probably have tried different setting Having said this it is over 20 years old parts do wear out & no amount of cleaning can fix everything it may need new jet needle/throttle valve or carb replacing ? Your exhaust valve clearance 0.11mm -0.15 mm so try this at 12mm /inlet 0.05mm -0.09mm try 7mm ( I doubt this will cure the cutting out though,But may run better)

Glad everything was ok for your cbt

On the side of the carb is the idle adjust screw start engine & give it a litle gas you dont have to rev its nuts off hold the throttle open a little turn the screw in 1 turn should do , then release the throttle & let it settle if its running too fast back it out a little at a time letting it settle each time you turn it until you get it how you want .

I have actualy stripped & rebuilt the same forks a good while back & seem to recall a bolt going through the leg about half way up (I think is allen a bolt ?) Im not sure but is it one of the fixing bolts for the the calipper & maybe its been left loose or needs a bush ?

I dont think them thar derbyshire hills are very freindly to 125s

I bow to the master not familiar with this bike just telling the basics , so he'd be ok with a decent hill & backup ( edit) Er , Sorry ogoab but a posted before reading your post .

If you can get a mate to help push & steady you ,you dont need a hill but it helps , Ignition/ fuel on put it second clutch in run like fk & jump on over the saddle or side saddle depending how capable you feel & let clutch out ,have a few practices first in neutral ,its great fun so enjoy lol ....R

Running rich clean the air filter . Read other posts & get a manual .

Noooooooh this is not toy electricity & can realy hurt or worse its not just 12volt dc its like old bills tazer so be careful & use something between you & the plug,The plug spanner/socket is 18mm ok. R

Take a deap breath & start a fresh Charge battery, check terminals are clean & tight ,if its low it will not run properly or turn the engine over fast enough to start. clean & gap plug or better still renew it & gap the new one , plugs are too cheap to skimp this. spray plug cap & lead/coil & starter motor ect with wd40. if it turns over ok but still wont start after a few tries, dont drain the battery take the plug out & check for a good spark out of the motor, rest the plug nose against the cylinder head you should get fat blue sparks & while plug is out see if you are getting fuel to the plug by putting finger in the plug hole & turn over .this will also give you a rough idea of the compression status . EDIT.. take care when checking for spark I normaly just hold suppressor cap but if your not used to being zapped use some thing to insulate you , rubber gloves to hold by the cap or insulated grips to hold plug on the hexagonal part of plug.

Check the plug isn't soaked prob will be after turning over dry refit & try without choke out, w hen you cleaned air filter did you squeeze the excess oil out to leave just damp ? if its dripping with oil it will restrict the air intake .... R

Auto oil is no good for bikes with a wet clutch , wich you have I suggest you dump it or regret it. refil with bike oil 1 litre is ok for yours & you should get away with it as you can't have gone to far yet (dont keep using it) AS I said as with Sr as with any engine its not keeping up with maintainance that causes most motor damage. you say you do very short rides , well a good run(for that bike 25-30 miles round trip)would do it good & blow some shite out of it now & again , When you have the correct oil ect EDIT No when I say top end I mean the top of engine cylinder head camshaft /valves Also dont get fully synthetic oil , semi is ok or ordinary bike oil.