KirriePete

OK, I'm going to go with the obvious here - what position is the fuel tap in when you try to run the bike (and it splutters to a halt)?

Sounds like a fuel feed problem. Switch the fuel tap to Prime and see what happens - if it's OK like that, then that suggests the vacuum take-off isn't doing it's thing. Or ... a blocked fuel cap breather - run it with the cap open and see if that makes any difference. Or ... a blocked fuel pipe/strainer, shifting the tank may have dislodged some crap. Just a few thoughts. You're welcome

You did use a bike-specific oil for the change, didn't you? Not some generic car oil that may (or may not - but most likely will) have friction modifiers that play havoc with wet clutches (ask me how I know this!) .... If you did use the bad stuff, you may get away with it by changing it again for a bike-specific type - I've used Halford's own Motorcycle Semi-synth in all my machines for years (ever since I had clutch slip on my NX650 after an oil change, funnily enough!). As for the misfire .... plug breaking down or fouling, plug cap going bye-bye, loose leads, failing ignition black box .... the possibilities are endless. Of course, if it's only misfiring when the clutch slips, it could be a rev-limiter type thing - just guessing there. You're welcome

Just over a week away, so I thought I'd give this a bump. Anyone even remotely near Dundee on the 5th is welcome, bring a pressie for the kiddies (wrapped & labelled boy/girl & age range) plus a blue portrait of Lizzie Windsor for the bucket. Then have fun holding up the traffic through Dundee on a pre-Christmas Saturday afternoon, oh how the cagers froth and bite their steering wheels !

IIRC it's the same puller as used on Honda Cubs, and they MUST be scattered all over the place - your local Honda shop would likely have one on the shelf. You're welcome

Sounds like it's had it for sure (or it never had the cojones for the job in the first place!). Any halfway decent bike battery of 14A/h capacity should be able to handle the job, most give a figure round about 200 for CCA, so that should be the goal. Personally I would drop a Hawker Odyssey in there (PC680, PC680MJ probably - but you should check with the supplier that it will fit) - a bit more expensive, but can be regarded as a 'fit and forget' device. Had Odysseys in my last 3 bikes with never a problem starting, even after a couple of weeks in a shed at -flipping cold degrees! Well worth the money, IMHO. You're welcome

Any decent locksmith (not a cobbler who cuts keys on the side) will be able to cut a key from the lock number - usually stamped on the side of the lock barrel (yes, you'll have to take it off) - should only cost a tenner or so. I would check with the seller that he's taken care of the legalities of ownership - just because the V5 is in his name doesn't make him the legal owner, simply the 'Registered Keeper'. He probably does have legal right to the bike if he was stiffed for rent, but unless he's gone about it properly it could come back and bite him (or you) in the bum. That is, of course, if the original owner ever surfaces, which sounds unlikely in the circumstances....

I take it you can't fit the spades inside the connector block, presumably the connector is female, yes? In which case you have 2 options: (1) obtain the mirror image of the connector block and wire the bike accordingly or (2) cut the block off and put the right size male spades on the ends of the wires. I would go for option (2), good quality crimp-on spades are more than adequate for the job and are a lot more hassle-free in the long run. You're welcome.

Anything's possible - depends on how holey it is and the state of the metal that's left. Best advice is to take it to your local welding guru and see what he/she says - be prepared for much sucking through teeth, though!

Well, everyone down south in Englandshire seems to have a thing for the Cat & Fiddle - Clicky Link. Me? I live in Scotland which is also known as God's Own Biking Country. In addition to some fantastic roads we also have jaw-dropping scenery - only downside is the predictably unpredictable weather. One of the local favourites is the "Kinlochleven Loop" - Map Link - here's some video to whet your appetite - Edit to add: There's no such thing as a dangerous road, it's how you ride/drive it that matters. Yes, there are some badly designed roads but if you recognise that fact and ride accordingly you should be fine. Especially if you allow for the twats that don't ride/drive with their brains engaged ...... You're welcome

Smaller bolt sizes and EZ-outs are never a good mix (for me, anyway) - as the taper moves in, the stud swells to accomodate it and gets forced further into the thread, which is why they have a reputation for snapping off. Larger stud sizes (M10 and up) suffer proportionately less from the swelling, so EZ-outs are a good option. Welding nuts on is an excellent option as long as (1) there's enough sticking up to weld onto, (2) you've got access to welding kit and (3) you know how to weld (or can wave a beer at someone who does). I can drill straight, but every time I've tried welding in the past .... no, it's too horrible to contemplate! Good luck with doing it (whichever option 'it' is) in situ, root - pics of the lager-cooled drilling rig would be good. You're welcome.

2 stroke exhaust construction is a combination of fine art and brain-melting physics. Basically, they need a certain level of back pressure to assist in scavenging the gases from the combustion chamber and allowing the cleanest fresh charge of fuel/air for the next cycle. A straight pipe will make it run like a donkey and may well end up damaging the mill. Look up Walter Kaaden and MZ development - yes, he/they were waaaaay ahead of the game, so much so that Suzuki had to steal the designs to get their strokers running well. Click here for more info on 2-stroke exhausts than you ever thought you'd need. Then take apart the remains of the pipe you've got and have a look at how the curves and various holey pipes work..... Then go and spend money on a replacement.

Been there, done that on Wee Arfur the XBR just a while ago. One step-by-step (with piccies) coming up: Before: It's best if you can take the head off so you can get a good angle with the drill - drilling in while squashed by the front wheel is never going to be fun. Cut the stud as flush to the head as possible (I used a Dremel with disc cutter), but leave a little bit sticking up so you can grab it later (if Lady Luck is on your side), then centre punch the top as near the middle as you can: Start drilling with a 2 or 2.5 mm drill bit, use lots of lubricant and take it steady. If you know the depth you need, mark the drill with some white insulting tape, so you know when to stop. Once the small drill has done it's work, swap with the next size up - I went 2,3,4,5,6 then 6.8 for an M8 stud: You'll probably find when you get to the 4 or 5mm drill that the remains of the thread will start to collapse in, you can get some tweezers/needle nose pliers and unwind it like a spring, if you're really lucky. If not, take it to 5mm then run a tap down to recut the thread - again, use lots of lube and take it steady - even if you do unwind the remains, it's a good idea to clean up the thread with a tap anyway, just be gentle. A quarter turn then back off, then another quarter and back off and so on is the way to go with taps (unless you're fond of trying to remove snapped off hardened steel from the hole). You should end up with: Then grab your new studs, give them a wipe-over with some copper grease and run them in: Seemples!

First things first - the PDIL's (Prospective Daughter-In-Law) wee SR flew through the MOT on Friday afternoon, clean sheet, no advisories - woohoo! Now, riding it the 8 miles each way gave me an insight into just how gutless this little motor is, it just managed 60 on a long (mile plus) downhill incline, and holding 50 meant doing the left foot tap dance. Fair enough I'm 6ft and 15 stone, but the lad's old Suzy EN125 would pull 75 with me pinning it down, so it can't be impossible. It's currently running standard gearing and I'm considering dropping a tooth on the front and going up one on the back to let it rev out in top - comments/suggestions? It just feels like the poor wee mill can't breath properly - air filter cleaned & re-oiled with K&N pink stuff I had in the shed, new pattern 'zorst off the devil's own auction site ... Where do I drill and how big a hole? Any and all suggestions welcome, please be aware that this is now officially a no-budget bike (she's skint). Ta

Surely the manual gives you the oil spec? "10w/40 mineral/synthetic/semi-synth to API Specification SL" or summat like that? As for specific brands, all the quality ones are much of a muchness and should readily mix - so what's in the engine now? I've used Halford's own brand semi-skimmed bike oil for ages with no problems. Rough guide: 1. Don't mix types if you can avoid it - mineral/synth/semi-synth. They should work together OK, but why risk it? b. The API spec is the one you need to check - if your manual says SJ or better, don't put SG in it - but vice-versa is OK. The order is on the second letter, so SA is the oldest, SM (?) is most recent - S is for petrol engines (Spark ignition, maybe?). iii. Don't be tempted by cheap car oils - most bikes don't react to well to them (long diatribe on friction modifiers and wet clutches ... avoided). You're welcome

Just doing my bit for the planet, recycling and all that happy hippy tree-hugging crap. Not destroying it by using evil electricity to keep me warm...

Man after my own heart - I used to use old plastic milk jugs (the big ones .... big jugs, mmmmmmmm!), good shape to 'em made them more aerodynamically efficient!

Fetishist's Monthly: "Baboon's arse found on ET's face"

Aha! Got you there! Got a few of them, well used to boot ...... for the c*r*v*n.

Whaddya mean? I've got a tube of Solvol Autosol in the shed .... alright, so it's 6 years old and still 95% full, but .....

A better soldier doesn't rely on technology that may fail in the field. Should a circuit fail on your vest/gloves/undercrackers, how long before the cold gets through? As for the frozen fingers: 100 miles at -4 wearing summer weight unlined gloves with just a chilly pinky on my left hand. How? Brush guards keep the wind chill off ... OK, it doesn't hurt that the wife refers to me as 'The Human Radiator', but even so .... Not knocking the electricals at all, just prefer to tackle the issue of heat escaping before considering pumping more in.

800 miles non-stop on a Fazer? I told you to get a gel pad, but would you listen .... ?

16/57 You're welcome

Soft southern Jessy - I've only just this weekend zipped in the thermal liner to my Frank Thomas jacket coz it was getting a bit parky (-3 overnight climbing to a tropical +3 at lunchtime)! Might even consider putting a t-shirt on underneath.... .... and I'm an ex-pat soft southerner, not even a native! Mumble, mutter .... kids today .... mumble, grumble .... army greatcoat was good enough in my day ..... etc.

Have you tried Paul Goff? 4 quid plus p&p (another £1.50 in the UK, possibly a bit more for colonials) Clicky Linky Thing You're welcome