Paulwhite

oh almost forgot there is a yamaha dealership in clay cross called CMC which gathers quite a crowd on a nice day

matlock is a great ride. some nice roads round there and on a hot sunny sunday its packed, just got to watch ur speed as pc plod like to catch people out. and with the long sweeping roads they do catch quite a few lol but yeah MFN is a good night out, more than enough bikes to keep you there for a few hours at least! ......just think matlock bath but bigger. wednesday is the best day for mfn but its got to be a warm sunny day to get the best turnout.

invisable?

im sure the bars are 7/8 of an inch (they are on the xvs dragstar) and everything should fit fine! the hardest part your going to find is to slide the grips off, i tend to put a small screwdriver inbetween the grip and bar then squirt wd40 in there, then take the screwdriver out and twist the grip off the bar.........just make sure you give it a wipe inside to get rid of the wd40. then when u come to put them back on use some hair spray......i know it sounds weird but hairspray will act like oil to get the grip on then dry like a week glue. when you come to do the throttle side of the bars, the grip will be on a plastic tube so should just slide off .

how could u not know!??

hello just seeing if anyone is going to mfn when it opens up again on the 1st of april? might take a treck down on the 4th (wednesday) if the weathers good! if anyone wants to know more just type "mfn pub" in google and you will get all the info u need.

double check everything with a multimeter! if you find it is the stator (altinator) then pm me as iv got one in the shed and will do u a deal. but the last thing you want to do is to get it, find thats its the reg/rect and have to spend 90 quid on a new one. and search for xvs 125 engine casing as the "altinator" is on the inside of the left hand engine casing and is usualy sold with it.

for handlebars look on ebay ......as to putting a cone air filter on .....dont bother it will cause more problems! like getting ur air fuel mix right and putting in the right jets to cope as well as killing ur piston rings faster. if your thinking about chopping fenders up then id advise you to get a second hand unit to chop/play with then atleast if you make a mistake you have the original to fall back on. but apart from that, customising is about what you think would look good and putting your own stamp on it.

cant think off the top of my head what its called but if you go to a yamaha parts dealer and say ur after a carb manifold for an xvs dragstar 125 then they will know what ur after. or type in xvs 125 dragstar on ebay and search through the parts ......might find a decent one there.

just to let you know on the 2012 theory test practice disk there is 1 motorbike related question ...................it asks what should you do when passing a motorbike on a road with crosswinds.......the answer is give plenty of room.......but thats about it.

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as far as i am aware all lights and indicators need to be e marked to be road legal and pass an mot.

its not quite the same .......it will fit but it will reposition your carb plus the inner diameter is diferant.

try these ....give them a ring and ask for the parts department. http://www.cmcbikes.com/ they might be able to post it to you but dont quote me on that.

well.....from what i can see it looks like an easy conversion. looks to me like they have done the following. changed bars (e-bay) taken back end of plastics off replaced seat (suppose you could make one from fibreglass) taken plastics on tank, off if the frame goes right up to the lights then i think what they have done is cut the back end of the frame off (would have to put a new lights on there) your better off not cutting it front fender off of something (or cut a 2nd hand original fender to size and paint ?) put small rear fender on (from something else ......try e-bay?) taken the covers off the clocks taken wing mirrors off (not such a good idea have a look at bar end mirrors) and changed the exhaust. (think wemoto.com do them) yeah think thats about it ....as far as i can see you might be better off getting a spare 2nd hand seat and see if you can get it upholsterd to the cafe racer one, or try your hand at making one? keep all the parts you take off and put them in a safe place, then if you ever come to sell the bike, you have them (makes for a good selling point)

chill.. i wasnt having a go or questioning your method i was just making a statement based on my own experiance, and in my experiance i found that the more prep work you do the better the result. e.g making a form for the fibreglass, then getting the desired shape from sanding (in my case a rear fender) i apologise if my reply offended you but please note that i write all my reply's light heartedly. i too have experiance with fibreglas doing body repairs on cars as well on bikes, iv also done a fender or two for my own projects, and i happen to work with epoxy resin on a daily basis making anti slip floors. here are a couple of pics of the fender i made for an old forum member. (not in any order)

lol you make it sound so easy ........its allot of prep work! the more time you prep it, the better the finish! and with the layers i found it easyer to brush the resin on the mould then put the 1st layer of matting on, then once coverd, brush another layer of resin over the matting then put on the 2nd layer. do about 3- 4 layers. use a thick matting for the "structure" then a fine matting for the final layer (just streatch it over the top the excess resin will soak into it) leave over night then crack out a orbital sander with a rough grit paper and get the surface as smooth as you can, (to cut it i used a grinder, works faster but it makes loads of dust) then cover in body filler about 1mm thick all round, leave to dry then sand down (usually back to the fibreglass to get the shape) use a smoother gritt paper to get a better finish. so start with a 160 gritt and work it to a fine 200 gritt then finish with a 600 gritt i found at this point spraying it in black helped to spot any "flat spots" when sanding, and also use a block of wood to wrap the sand paper round. then when your happy spray with primer (about 2 light coats) then LIGHTLY spray your paint colour on layer by layer (anywhere from 6 - 15 light coats giving it time to dry) when the paint has dried, put on about 4 light layers of clearcoat to give it a glossy finish (note if you go with a matt colour then putting a clear coat on top will make it look glossy) when dry put some car wax on it to buff it up and make it look nice. take your time painting it! leave each coat a good hour to dry before putting another coat on. and the resin sets faster in heat .....the hotter the weather the faster it sets! roughly 10 min at 20*c and 20 min at 9*c or below your best bet would be to modify or cut an old part like a fender (if your doing a fender) or cover your original part in tape and use it for a mould. i had an idea of making an "outside" mould from clay then layering the fibreglass into it ......would save time sanding it down and shaping it as the smooth clay would give a smooth perfect finish. but iv never tried it.

1st of all if it aint broke dont fix it! you can sell it for more if its standard. its going to be quite a bit of work for a 125, ur best bet would be to take a few pictures of it without the seat and plastics, then we can have a better look at the frame.