Paulwhite

unless you buy smaller cables then the only thing you can do is hide them, they should run under the tank so just pull them through or tie wrap them in place. as to the mirrors you should be able to move them but if not then just get some that will go where u want.

you buy shorter cables, or hide them.

anywhere in between 0.08mm-0.12mm thickness

the best thing to do would be to do a plug chop to check the mixture then adjust accordingly. as to the 2 teeth up front, go for it! it dont take much to change it back if your not happy as to jet size you can get higher just search for mikuni main jet and you will find them. but to be honest you dont want to go too high as its a small engine and the bottom end seems to be a week point in the xv / xvs 125 range.

ha ha lol would that be classed as offensive in the uk? or could you get away with it?

yeah but its pretty

hi all im in the process of rebuilding the bobber whilst inspecting the frame for painting iv noticed some rust which would be cause for concern. considering my bike is 8 years old and was in a good garage for 4 of them i thought i best mention it. the seat bracket was corroded underneath, no holes or cracks, but needed a wire brush on a drill to clear it, so could go in time. on the bottom of the frame, where the kick stand bracket is welded. there was a hole about the same size as a 5p and a crack going round the tube effectively compromising the structure of the frame when i grinded it back there was a hole (3inch by 1inch), which i patched and welded with some 3mm steel. but without the patch (or welding the crack) the bottom left part of the frame would of broke when going over a speed bump. its a safety concern for me but id say wouldnt hurt to have a look to see if anyone elses has corroded.

i thought the original looks too big to be honest lol .......you can get hold of a 100 watt h4 bulb of fleabay that should increase visibility

its mainly for looks

lol

iv just got a provisional but 6 years under my belt doing 10,000 miles a year, dont see the point in fully comp so i went with third party fire and theft .....my quote is £80 this year with £100 excess, thats with all the modifications declared and an agreed value of £1500 plus legal cover. oh and im only 24.

i know of a good fzr 600 for sale (its in the for sale section)

talk about "out of touch with the common man/woman/family/buisness,NHS and worker!" it winds me up too cynic it winds everyone up! the public can vote but the people in power dictate then we are powerless to say no try it this way!

so how much has this tracker cost you? and do the company that you got it from have any legal obligations? like for example there not going to sell the info of you and you product/data to anyone. im just trying to pick faults to see if there are any weekpoints/ risks of anyone using it against you. but it is a interesting idea that i might do for my bike.......the only thing thats racking my brains is that if its so cheep and easy to do then why havent all cars and bikes have them when they come out of the factory?

cool ....you should try it in a tin shed to see if you can get a signal as 9 times out of 10 if a bike is nicked it goes into a van then locked away somewhere.

its gone to about £1.41.9 round my way today! some even charging £1.43.9!!!

quick rundown of the carb (for reference) top of carb = inlet bottom = outlet there are 2 covers (with 4 screws to hold them in place) either side, one side is round, it has a spring in it , and also a rubber boot which holds the "jet needle", if you take the rubber bit out the needle will follow, with pointy end down, look on the top you will see a screw head, undo it (its got a spring on it) , with that undone push the pointy end and take the needle out. the needle (pointy end down) will have 3 notches (or more) and a clip. for a basic setup the clip should be smack bang in the middle. put it all back together and turn the carb to the opposite side. (dont forget to put the spring back in) this side will have a bit sticking out (with a hole/pipe facing down) and a screw just above or on it. this is the "drain tap" put the hole/pipe over something and undo the screw, the spare fuel will drain from the carb. do the screw back up again. undo the 4 screws that hold the cover on. take the cover off, you will see a piece of plastic called a "float bowl" which acts like the system on your toilet, it lets fuel in at a certain level then stops when its reached that level. there will be a small spring attached to it with a little piston thing (not sure what its called). this piston thing stops fuel coming into the carb when its full. you will see the "float bowl" pivots on a little metal bar, slide the bar out and take the float bowl out (with the spring piston thing) and put to one side. look in the carb you will see some brass pipes. the big one in the middle is your "main jet" undo the top bit with a flat head screwdriver, this is the main jet that lets fuel in when you open the throttle, there is a hole in the middle, blow through it! as crud gets in there. put it back on the brass pipe. to the bottom left (or right) is another brass tube with a flathead screwdriver head. undo that. its your "pilot jet" this one controls the fuel at startup. should be a tube that goes smaller with holes round the outside and a hole in the middle. blow through that one aswell to get rid of any crud. put it back in then put your float bowl back on (dont forget the little piston thing and spring!) then put the cover on (do up the screws diagonally .....top right 1st then bottom left 2nd then top left 3rd then bottom right last ect.) then adjust the "mixture screw" a brass screw on the outside of the carb. just screw it all the way in then turn it out by how many turns the manual sais (think its 3 full turns) and thats it the carb has had a "quick" clean. it will need adjusting when you get the engine running but we can sort that out when we get to it. to properly clean it you would squirt carb cleaner in all th holes and soak the jets in fuel but unless when you open it up and loads of bits of crud comes out a quick blow should sort any blockage.

lol bad luck m8 its happened to the best of us lol

ok so its a good/brilliant idea! could be worth a step by step guide! but can anyone else access it if they wanted to? say if a thief knew that there was one installed on a bike could they gain access to its where abouts? what if your phone was stolen by a thief and they used the app....could they then find your bike or even track your movements? also what if some firm rings the phone (say ppi people) when its been nicked and you cant get through or the thief hears it ringing?

i do it all the time .......never realized it till now though ........mad

yeah i used photobucket no probs, i found that these engines are temperamental when it comes to the air fuel mix. and it wont run if its off. i found that you needed the black pipe that connects the air filter to the carb to get the right pressure so anything to do with the carb if not on properly could stop the engine from working. plus is the engine up straight? and not leaning back? sometimes if its on a bench it leans back also the carb could do with a clean if its been sat around for a few weeks (if you havent done so already) and its quite simple to sort in 30 min

whilst it would be wise to look at the valves (since your piston ring wasnt up to scratch your valves might not be either) b4 you take the covers off try this (i wrote it a min ago b4 the last post) . its sounding like a timing problem (spark timing) or a problem with the air fuel mix ........any chance you can take a video of you trying to start the bike so we can hear what the engine sounds like? also see how the spark plugs "spark" with relation to the engine, 4 strokes should only spark 1 every 2 tdc (each cylender) im gonna type it out cause i cant quite remember 1.tdc=exhaust closed inlet open 2.bdc=inlet close (compression starts) 3.tdc= spark 4.bdc=end of pop (exhaust valve opens) so the 2nd cylender should go 3.tdc=spark 4.bdc=end of pop 1.tdc=exhaust close inlet open 2.bdc=inlet close (compression) so the sparks should be intermittant. as to the carb its a dismantle and have a look thing. il go onto that if u want to. would explain why your getting blue flame from the cylender when the other one is fireing.

lol

yeah ....sleep on it and try again with a fresh head. just go over everything to do with ignition, so ecu to coils to plugs, then the engine. check everything is on properly then turn the engine without the HT leads connected to the plugs, it should sound normal then try with the plugs connected. my only other thought is the piston rings are letting the fuel air mix into the case under compression. open the oil plug and take a whiff if it stinks of fuel then it could be the rings.(but dont quote me on that) im not sure how to sort it but i heard if you put a teaspoon of oil in the sparkplug holes then with the plugs out turn the engine over it should fire up when you put the plugs back in. anyone want to clarify on this?

my boss gave me a loan to fix my bike (without me asking) as im paying £50 a week just to get to work