Paulwhite

lol seen my post then yeah a chromed up engine would look a little nicer but im not one for cleaning it! i dont like chrome well....not that much anyway, just a little here and there to accent the bike. plus the point of a bobber is its basic! just engine, frame and 2 wheels none of that fancy chrome coverd plastc rubbish lol

have a look in the help section "Geoff" posted some info there for puttin up pics

only if you want to lower it, if your not fussed then dont bother swapping the springs or chopping anything and its not a hardtail its the fender mount that has been chopped, a hardtail is a solid swingarm (dont move up and down) and the hardest part (that im finding) is sortin out an engine to put in it. iv got my hands on a honda cbr 125 2004 engine but am having trouble tryin to get it started at the mo, somethings wrong with the ignition circuit, so just need to get that fixed then i can get it put into the frame

0-100 miles dont take it above 35mph and use the gears (dont rev the bike more than u need to ) change oil 100-300 miles push the bike to 40mph and use the gears like above but every 50 miles push it to 50 then back to 40 straight away 300- 600 take the bike up to 50mph service when its ment to be serviced 600- 1000 take it to 60mph (but dont run the revs high!) after 1000 miles ride it normaly up to 60mph 2000 miles go down a hill and try and get about 65mph 70 at a push but dont run the revs high 2500 miles sit back and enjoy ur bike.

there is the big red one that hooks to the battery then the black one that goes to the starter motor, then there is a 4 pin socket 1pin will be a positive and 2 others will be the switch but im unsure what the 4th one is you could be right and its an earth but seems wierd that they would put an earth on the relay instead of just using the loom earth or the frame. might be another positive? il crack out the led bulbs and have a play later cheers drewpy!

ok might be a silly question but is the oil filler cap on properly? and that would be the clutch where the arrow is pointing, best bet would be to drain the oil and take the cover off and have a good look.

id buy an island (somewhere sunny but not too far from mainland) and build a massive track goin round it then some off road tracks and a drag strip, people who live there have to BUILD there own transport and would get a pile of quality scrap and tools when they sign up to be residents. and there would be a limited amount of holiday tickets a year to dish out to ppl for a mint holiday!

if its coming from the rear cylinder at the top to the right it could just be a hole in the exhaust joint (a little bent pipe that links the rear exhaust to the cylinder)there prone to rotting!, and the clutch is on the right(as ur sat on the bike) might be the cam chain is a little loose but im sure its self adjusting. when was the last time it was serviced? could be a number of things m8, is it only when ur riding the bike or does it do it when its not moving?

cheers drewpy for the links much apreciated! iv had a look and downloaded the yamaha zip folder but cant find a diagram for the xvs 125 dragstar (if there is one?), iv got hold of a haynes manual for the honda so im ok with that but just need the diagram for the dragstar, well.... i need to know what all the pins do on the starter relay (the block connected to the + on the battery) as there are 4 pins on the xvs and only 3 on the cbr. cheers . Paul .

hi all iv searched google till iv got a headache and i cant find a good source for wiring diagrams anywhere! just wondered if anyone could point me to a good site? iv got to splice some honda cbr 125r (2004) parts/loom to a xvs 125 (2004) loom for my project but cant find any diagrams anywhere! (im putting that engine into the drag frame but need to sort out the loom so it works) any help would be appreciated cheers . Paul .

yeah iv got a clearance problem with that one. cause its a complete home made bodge job iv got a 44 tooth bmx sprocket on the back and its only just smaller than the wheels so any bigger and itl be running on the sprocket lol and iv had to weld a sproket to the clutch so no hope of swapping that one i just wanted to get a little more torque, cause it pulls fine on a flat and im 10 stone, its just im not getting top speed out of it and a little more torque would help loads. but saying that.....iv built it and havent got anywhere to go on it lol (oops) it works so its not too bad, il have to give it a go in the snow and see what its like might even put it up for sale to fund the bike project lol.

sound. nice one the 2 bikes are both 12v and i havent taken the side cover off to have a look at the flywheel yet but should be similar just got to get my hands on some wiering diagrams lol but yeah cheers for the info.

the one im building

right a reg/rect converts ac power to dc power so in theory they are all the same just wierd up for the model of bike? am i right? iv got a honda cbr 125 engine but havent got a reg/rect but i do have one for a 125 drag so in theory i could just get hold of the wiering diagrams and splice the yam reg/rect and connector to the honda loom? would save me about 60 to 80 quid! but i dont want owt to blow up on me any help would b grateful cheers. .Paul.

back to the topic..........iv only enjoyed a hamlet or two but wouldnt say no to gettin a pipe......hmmm might go and get one this weekend and sounds like a good run. id come but dont think the misses would b happy lol plus the bike is still waitin to be built.

personally i wouldnt fit an xvs engine in there (not too keen on the engine) but a honda cbr 125 engine would be my choice, as its loads more reliable plus ul get a little more out of the engine as its slightly better (spec wise) and lighter! but yeah defo get that frame! would make a nice winter project

its allot of hassle to get it off but here it goes. 1.take seat off 2.undo bolt closest to tank (under the seat) 3.take off the chrome speedo to undo the speedo cable and wiers 4.turn petrol tap off and disconnect the pipe 5.lift the back of the tank and pull back-wards (walk it out) 6.put tank to one side 7.undo the black plastic surround(might need to take coils off)and it clips together 8.have a good look at the lock and see how it attaches (i forget what mine is like at this point) 9.disconnect wiers and undo fixings 10.have a cup of tea (done) 11.put back together in reverse order as i said its allot of hassle! so probs best get a decent lock smith.

soz dude my computer has gone mental! my hotmail account decided to lock me out and i snaped the dongal when i droped the laptop. but yeah all is goin well iv sorted the seat out and put the mounts in for the indicators, the number plate fixing is going to be tricky as i cant figure out how to put it on safely (cause u wanted it on a bracket to the side of the bike) but il figure it out, when do you want it for? cause its taking longer than im happy with and im sure ur gettin a little anoyed with me. (the misses has been giving me some right jip!) soz for takin so long dude.

hi and welcome to the yoc forum!!! if your looking for more power then forget it cause you cant squeeze anymore out of the engine. BUT there are a few things you can do to help! 1. get a smaller / larger front sprocket . ppl have put a smaller sprocket on (2 or 3 teeth) and have said that they have seen an improvement! (id personally get a smaller and a bigger one (2-3 teeth) cause a smaller one increases pulling power but lowers top end speed, but a bigger one will lower engine revs, lower the pulling power slightly but increases top end speed! 2. put a free flow oil filter and some decent oil in the engine. Id have to say this is a must! iv found that these engines tend to be a bit poor in this department so a good grade oil and a free flow filter will help LOADS. 3. if you wanted you could drill 5 6mm holes in each exhaust plate (the black bit at the end of the exhaust where the exit pipe is) its mainly to improve the sound but it dus free up the exhaust a little. plus you can put 6mm bolts in the holes when it comes to the mot! (saves having to get a new exhaust cause with the holes it wont pass) 4. finally if you sort of know what ur doing or are quite handy with a spanner you could put a bigger main jet in the carb increasing the air/fuel mixture a little (a 95 main jet will surfice ) this will improve the torque slightly but you will notice it when riding all these put together should help you reach that magic 60mph but the best advice i can give is to just ride it and get used to the bike, i used to find that id have to rev it quite hard from 3rd gear i used to hit 58 in 4th then flick it into 5th for cruising but could never manage to get it above 62mph unless i was going downhill! hope this helps m8 .Paul.

lol i have thaught about that but iv made it now with the "honda" engine lol still might be interested in that engine though for the sachs as iv just about given up on it. ""Paul, me thinks ya will end up with no honda engine if ya go down this road. Ya cant get a small engine like that to have alot more torque,,,,,,the piston and bore just isnt wide enough."" its a 160cc 4 stroke single cylinder engine and you can increase the torque if you want to throw your wallet at it, but my wallet is full of dust so just going through ideas. ""What you are proposing with the flywheel will be dangerous, ensure you run a cover capable of containing it when it explodes. If the engine isn't reving past 2500 you've either not set up the cam timing or carburation OR the advance section of the ignition has packed up. I'm not familiar with that engine, but if its a 2 valve single it won't need a fancy advance curve, but it will benefit from advancing it earlier but keeping the same start point to give good starting."" the engine should rev up to 5000rpm but when riding it wont go past about 2500-3000rpm cause it only has a 2.5 to one gear ratio, the engine is 5.5hp standard and with the mods iv made, its made it to about 6-7hp, its in nearly new nick and is set up properly, i hear what your all saying that the fiberglas flywheel is a bad idea.

well the idea is to make a mould from the original flywheel so assuming that it is perfectly round it should work and be safe, there is a metal cover that goes over it so if the worst happens and it disintegrates then it will just stall the engine. the actual fiberglass will be layered and pressed whilst it sets, so im certain that it wont shatter (only if its not perfectly balanced) but this is where iv red that the original flywheel isnt of a good build quality and have been known to brake apart (ripping through the case). the kart itself is just a homemade toy so wont be doing any considerable speed (probs max 40mph) its just the torque that im trying to increase and with a lighter flywheel it will get to the higher rev range quicker making it pull better. well you can get a key to advance the timing by 8 degrees but i dont know if that would help the torque? i just want it to pull better but i cant change the gear ratio (not enough room) but cheers for the imput it was a long shot posting on here but its just a bit of fun

hello i know its not a bike or a Yamaha but its still an engine and the theory is still the same, cant seem to find anything on the matter so i thought id try here. (id understand if no one replies) right, iv got a go-kart engine its a honda gx 160 clone (5.5hp) and yes iv looked on google for tuning tips and safe to say iv managed to do most of them! iv de-governed the engine and put stronger valve spring in so it revs higher (5000rpm), iv put a free flow air filter on and a straight through exhaust, and might be putting a mikuni carb on (a spare xvs dragstar carb with smaller jets ) now iv read up about ignition timing for this engine but i get confused when it comes to figuring out what to do... im wanting to increase the torque cause at the mo when you ride the kart its only hitting about 2500 rpm and dont seem to go any higher. so i thought increased torque = better pulling at low rpm = getting to higher rpm. but do i retard or advance the timing to get this? you can do this one of 2 ways change the cam gear position (dont want to do that) or get an 8 degree timing wood ruff key. there is also a aluminum flywheel mod that makes the engine rev faster due to the lighter weight. what im thinking of doing is make my own flywheel (out of fiberglass and epoxy resign) but make it with the new timing built in, but need to know how to sort the timing out. cheers for any help (if i get any)

iv not done much to it recently iv decided to save up for the engine b4 i spend anymore on the paint and bodywork. as to somewhere to do it for you, all you really need to know is a good paint shop and probably a bodywork shop, just take the bike to bits, get it prepped for painting then send it off, if you want to do something with the fender then just take it to a bodywork shop get them to cut the mounts off and chop the rear fender so that its shorter and a closer fit, then prep it and send it off to be painted, get it all back, put it back together with some custom bolt on accessories like stainless steal brake lines ect some different handlebars, and a new seat, job done! i make it sound easy but your looking at a good 2-3 months of striping, prepping, waiting, and then putting back together. but if you have a good budget then it dont really matter id love to have the funds to get it done properly e.g having it sand blasted and powder coat everything! but iv got to make do with the funds available. (farther of 2 one more on the way with no income = not good)

hi chris its paul with an update the fender is just about done all iv got to do is sort out the seat fix the light and the wiering then give it 1 last rub down and finish the paint! the seat thats on it at the mo is just a mock up to see how it would look , iv decided that im going to do a separate seat that attaches to the fender then it makes it easier to attach the whole thing to the bike. il get the seat done today then rub it down and paint it tomorrow. hopefully it will be ready for wednesday! when its done il take it to the post office and get it priced up for posting then get in touch. hope ur happy with it. Paul.

that sounds dodgy!!!!! i know the xvs engine is very temperamental! try going round it to see if everything is on properly! if there is a leek of any kind then it wont start. but why would they take the airbox off???? its got nothing to do with the mot! as long as the bike started and ran ok when you took it there then there is no need to go anywhere near the air box. if it was me id go mental and threaten legal action! at the end of the day they fooked it up! best bet would be to go down there and tell them you want it fixing! otherwise you will contact your solicitor! and take the bike to a Yamaha dealer to get looked at, to see whats wrong and sue them for the damage! hope you get it sorted m8!