DirtyDT

Hi and welcome to the forum. Nothing wrong with a Suzuki, or two.

Oh dear!

Keep an eye on the Halfords professional range of tools. Very good for the money and they tend to have good discounts just after Christmas.

Hi and welcome to the forum Al.

What year is the bike Andrew?

Hi and welcome to the forum. People get a better response to thier questions when they say hello in the new members section. There is a link here to explain If you contact a member here called Paul Dawkins, he may be able to help you with a dating certificate. There is a cost to this. Please see this tread for more details

I knew Stratford well - before they built the Olympic park. I've lived in Stratford, Manor Park and East Ham but not for over 20 years. Still a Hammers fan though!

As Airhead said really. Don't ever get it sand blasted. Never try and restamp it or put a plate over the numbers. Using the paper and pencil rub is a good idea and store the rubbing in a folder with the rest of the documents. Protect the number from further damage, by rubbing, by sticking something semi permanent over it. Gaffer tape, insulating tape etc. Remember that this will have to be removed for any inspection including a MOT so something that will cause minimal damage to any paint.

I took the "bowl drain nipple thing" as the overflow. Maybe I can't distinguish between a nipple and a screw anymore!

Hi and welcome to the forum. What part of East London do you live?

Float height and clean or replace the needle valve.

True.

The manual says change the oil every 6k KM or 6 Months and the oil filter at every 12k KM or 12 Months. 6k KM is 3728.227 miles. I would always change the filter with the oil and only use genuine oil filters.

Hi and welcome to the forum Rab. This section is for new members to say hello. You would be better posting the handlebar question in the workshop section. That said, there are only a couple of bar thicknesses. 7/8 and 1 inch are the most common. Different once may need changes to the lengths of the cables and the clamping of the switchgear. Start a new thread in the workshop section and get some pictures up. Non standard fittings are better with a few pictures to help replies.

It's been tried so many times but no one will ever listen. Things to remember: Motorcycles are dirty, dangerous, smelly vehicles ridden by unwashed and uneducated people who have criminal tendencies - at best. Someone has to pay for the eco, tree hugging people so it may as well be us. Next time you get a contemptuous look from a driver who is really too old to still be safe behind the wheel, just smile as you are subsidising them to go onto the roads and cause havoc. I get scared at work on a daily basis by some geriatric who shouldn't be at the wheel. Remember the golden rule: If the driver is wearing a hat of any kind keep away from them. Some examples: Baseball cap (either way around) - boy/girl racer Flat cap - Centenarian who can't see and whose reflexes are slow. Likely to stop suddenly without warning as always lost. Floppy Sunday best hat - Old granny who learned to drive in the war. Drives as though it is still 1945 and smiles a lot. Stocking mask - Cash in transit robber making a getaway.

1986 Yamaha YX600 A hello in the new members section normally reaps better results.

Moved to workshop.

Emissions are one reason plus, reliability, cunsumer desires, fuel economy and a few more. You can still get 2 strokes but they are very limited. It may take a lot of years before a DT125 RE becomes more valuable. If you want to look at a good 2 stroke investment then a RD500 or a RG500 are good bets.

If you read my earlier PM to you, you don't need a Haynes manual!

Not unusual for me.

Cap off to help it bleed. Then drain bolt back in, Fluid in - leave the cap off. Start it and let it run. Keep an eye on the fluid and don't let it get too hot. Squeeze the rubber water pipes. Don't let it get too hot so switch off and leave for a while and do the same again. When full cap on. Never take the cap off when the engine it hot. You will hurt yourself badly as water runs under pressure to raise the boiling point of the fluid.

Double pahhhh!!!!!

Lets get back to basics. You have probably blown the neutral light bulb. That needs changing. With the ignition on the bike should start if AT LEAST one of the following is true: 1) the bike is in neutral 2) the clutch is pulled in. If the bike starts with the clutch pulled in I would suggest that either the neutral switch, the neutral switch wiring or the diode that sits in the neutral wire circuit is knackered. The neutral switch is normally down by the front sprocket and the wire is blue. All of the rest of the circuit is blue/white wire. I would change the neutral light bulb and change the neutral diode first.

Look in the manual Andrew. It will tell you the distance or time for oil changes. 300 miles is extreme unless they covered 300 miles every 6 months or year.

The bulb is just a warning light for your safety. I am not sure it would [ass an MOT with the bulb blown but it does not have any effect of the inhibitor switches.