DirtyDT

I called the YOC Bikesure insurance number this morning for a quote on the TS. I was just finishing the quote when Lee from Bikesure called me. I got a good, competitive, quote so it looks like I will move insurers on the TS at the end of the Month. The SV is part way through an insurance period but I am tempted to look for a multibike policy when it expires, or when a project is ready to get on the road. This did raise a couple of questions though; each bikes no claims can only be used once. If I went for a multibike policy would this be for the highest number of years or the lowest? Also, if after a few years I decided to split the policies again, how does the NCD's work?

And it smells better. A higher quality oil is more forgiving if the engine spec is out a little. Changes to fuel content and higher quality oils developed after the bikes were designed means that often, on older bikes using the original oil pump, more oil is used than required and the mix of oil to fuel could be changed. I would bother to mess with the oil pump though if it is working correctly. Using quality oil is normally cheaper than having to repair a blown engine. Easier too.

No worries Andrew. Passed the first one hour one. Have to wait to find out about the two and a half hour one I took on Friday. Thanks for asking though.

Nothing wrong with an SV. Bargains to be had too.

That's the cc (engine size) marking fella. Lets get the engine id sorted first. I am on my phone so can't post up what to look for but search around the engine, the gearbox part. And there will be a flat surface with a number stamped on it. Don't panic yet . I couldn't find the engine number on. One of my bikes to start with.

I could be wrong by the way but that is what I get for an engine number starting 24X. It cant be a 24X because the sprocket is on the right of the engine on those, I think, and in your pics, the chain is on the left.

Frame number looks right for a DT125 LC '87 English. The engine number - 24X - looks like a YZ125K '84 according to my list.

They are normally different. Post up the first numbers and letters of each - not the whole numbers, leave the last 3 off. 35A - 025*** Something like this?

Sorry I spoke.

Frame number should be on the headstock. This will be where the forks are. there should be a fat tube that is part of the frame inbetween the forks. The frame number will be here, stamped downwards. The engine numbers vary but are often on the left of the bike engine at the top. There should be a flat part, with raised groves along it and the number should be stamped there.

Depends what you want really.

I have a '88 DT125R as having a 125 MJ.

Brake pads - see how much is left on the metal part of the pads. Normally you can look through to see a grove in the linings. Bearings - see if you can wiggle the parts. Wheels, swing arm and forks. Fluids - Make sure it has some and how clean it is. Engine oil, 2 stroke oil and brake fluid. Best to change all of these anyway. Chain - Slowly spin the rear wheel and check the play in the chain at the midway point between the front and rear sprockets (up and down). If it is about the same then this is a good sign. Also look at the rear sprocket for any teeth that are starting to get sharp or are twisting at their points. The area that the chain fits into should be circular, not an elongated crescent shape. Look for any leaks anywhere. Check the oil pump is working Check the colour of the spark plug I don't know what the bikes value is, it depends on too many factors and isn't my "cup of tea" but I would guess that £600 is OK for a fully legal DT of this age if not on a insurance register and with the original engine.

The first thing I would do is check everything to do with the safe riding of it. Brake pads, chain, sprockets, tyres, bearings etc. Then oils and fluids. Then engine then cosmetics. Pointless having a shiny DEP if the engine has blown up or the brakes don't stop the bike. As for the swing arm and plastics, the swing arm has to come off to do a decent job and the plastics need to be rubbed down and primed with plastic primer to get a good finish. Looks like there is some red paint showing through the blue in some of the pictures. All do'able

Keep it as stock as possible without getting anal would be my choice.

No back up, no idea of where you were going, no spare cash and no idea how to fix things - Everything stupid seemed to be a good idea.- Good old days.

I can't help on specific oils for a bike however, I always use Castrol Power 1 racing two stroke oil.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Great intro!

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The first thing I would check is how long you can use it in the UK without doing anything. I think it is a year but not sure. Get a V/55 form. An import pack is available from here LINKY which may help. Taken from another forum "........For Republic of Ireland, you Insure the car on its VIN plate number, then take it to an MOT station in UK. Once you have that certificate you take all the documents you have for the car to a DVLA office. There is a registration fee and you pay for the TAX then they send you the new REGISTRATION document and TAX DISC with the UK reg plate they have given you......" Check out if you need to apply for a UK driving license too.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum. A good picture for the YOC calender I think!

Hi and welcome to the forum. Start a new thread in the project section and post lots of pictures.

Hi and welcome to the forum.