DirtyDT

Back to basics I think. You had a charge when running and before the new battery. It runs rough when more electrical load is put on it. Assuming nothing else has failed, I would be looking for a bad earth, a dodgy connector, a wire earthing randomly or a wire that has broken. All of these will give you intermittent electrical problems and depending if this is the fault can stop the bike from charging the battery or can drain the battery. If a fuse is looking a bit "wrong" then this needs to be investigated. I know fuses are manufactured cheaply nowadays but it sounds like it is getting hot. Only 4 reasons for that: 1 it is melting because it is too close to something getting hot when the engine runs 2 it is faulty or fractured 3 it is getting too much too much power going to it - so the charging system - and overheating 4 it is being shorted - wire or connector earthing issue. 1 and 2 are easy to diagnose. Assuming the charging volts are ok through the rev range as previously mentioned then 3 shouldn't be the cause unless it is intermittent. A dodgy charging system can cause this but I would eliminate option 4 first because it will be the cheapest to do. That is where I would start. Hook up a multimeter to the battery and monitor the battery volts when you use the switches. Include riding the bike with the multimeter on the tank if you can. See what kind of weirdness you are getting and what you did. Subject to the above not reaping any solutions then it would leave the charging system or reg/rec. There are 5th and 6th options but they involve Alien abduction and the bike being possessed so lets not go there, yet!

Hi and welcome Colin. This section is for new members to say hello. If you have a technical question it is best to put it into the workshop section. Although it doesn't help with your question, there is a thread here which explains what the forum is about -

Got the Conti's on the TS250. I like them a lot. Great on tarmac.

Happy birthday. As for the rev counter, I'm with Airhead on this. Basically 3 checks; the gearbox, the clock or the cable. Undo the the cable where it connects into the rev counter. When the engine is running, does it spin? If yes, then it is the rev counter itself or, possibly, the cable was not seated properly. If no, Undo the cable where it connects into the gearbox. With the engine running is there something spinning in the hole where the cable connects to? If no then something has broken on the drive in the gearbox. If yes then check the inner cable in the rev counter cable.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

LINKY

And football (proper) starts this week.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I believe that there were some patches or badges made up a fair while ago but I don't know if any new ones exist. I am sure that someone will be able to clarify the position a little better than me in a while.

Ha ha, It is not a science. 20 to 30 I would guess. Remove the whole plug. When you get to start the bike, keep the revs low for a while while the engine runs for the oil to get through properly. We all had to start somewhere fella!

I have never owned a Husky but I do fancy one. A 2 stroke on though! and they are tall.

Good point Paul.

They often are like that. You have a few options. 1) Do you have an impact driver? You can normally turn them with that with a few taps. 2) Do you have a Dremil type multitool? You can normally cut a slot in them and use a slotted driver to unscrew them. Other that that you can sometimes use a slot driver on the edge or the bolt to tap them in the "undo" direction before using a cross head driver. This needs to be done carefully as hitting a driver against a round surface can lead to it slipping and causing some damage. The engine should not be run without any 2 stroke in it and this is why you need to prime the pump and clear any air. If you take off the oil feed tube that goes to the pump (as shown in you latest picture) and wait for the oil to flow, this will get rid of all of the air before the pump. If you then reconnect this and, with the engine off and the throttle on fully open, kick the bike over quite a few times until the oil is through the pump, this can work. Not really recommended but it does work. If you choose this method it would be good to take the spark plug out before you do it to stop the plug getting covered in fuel. None apart for bleeding it properly is ideal but they all work. I usually fit an allen key bolt in the original bolts place for ease of bleeding in the future.

I am out of ideas. I normally have loads of stupid ones at this point but I have totally dried up at the moment.

To easily post pictures, put them into your photobucket account. Go to the picture and on the left click the "direct" option. Go to the forum and on the top of where you write the post, there is a small square that looks like a picture (it is below and to the left of the smiley yellow face. Click this and a box appears. Paste the link in here - click the box and press the Ctrl button and press the V key at the same time. Close the box and the picture should appear as per the one of yours below.

For the four stroke I would go for this one LINKY They sell the 2 stroke also. Don't mix them up. Looking at your picture the bike takes 550cc which is just over half of one litre (so a little over half the bottle). You need to drain the old oil out first. To drain the engine oil, take a look under the engine. There should be a drain bolt which you undo and the oil oil should pour out. You will need to capture the oil in a container and dispose of it properly. Do not pour it down the sink or a drain. Once the oil is drained remember to bolt up the drain bolt, not too tight. A plastic funnel also helps to pour the new oil into the hole - once you take the cap in the picture off. Take the cap off before you drain the old oil and it helps the old oil to flow out quicker. The easiest way to drain the 2 stroke oil is to disconect the oil feed pipe from the oil tank and drain this into a container - cap off as above. Same advice as above in oil disposal. Reconnect the oil feed pipe. You then need to expose the oil pump by removing the oil pump cover. This is normally on the right hand side of the bike, follow the oil feed pipe and it will disappear into the engine case somewhere. Take the cover off and the oil pump should be behind it. There will be a small bolt on this which you undo (not a mounting bolt). when you start to fill the 2 stroke tank with 2 stroke oil this should then start to leak from the hole where you have removed the bolt. Once all of the bubbles have gone and the oil is flowing cleanly, replace the bolt and the oil pump cover. Wipe down any spillages as you go. Take some pictures as you go and post them up. Do not mix the oils, they are very different. I hope this helps

For the gearbox oil (the picture of the cap) you need motorcycle 4 stroke oil. The number on the side shows how much it takes from empty. Do not over fill it. Do not use car oil. I would use 10/40 semi synthetic - I favour Rock oil Guardian but would also use Mobil which you can get from Halfords. For the 2 stroke I only use Castrol 1 Power Racing - I would drain the old oil out first and bleed the oil pump. Then use new 2 stroke oil and remember to bleed the oil pump again. Keep an eye on the 2 stroke. It gets burnt with the engine running so you need to keep it topped up. Not doing so will damage your engine.

Firstly. it will always be better to pass any tests for safety, to be 100% legal and the fact that they will get harder and more expensive over time. I am not familiar with Irish motorcycle licences but it seems that they are now in line with the rest of the EU. In Ireland do you have a licence to LEGALLY ride the Fazer? According to the tinterweb " Normal residence in Ireland Being ‘normally resident’ in Ireland means you live here for at least 185 days in each calendar year. Even where you work or study abroad for lengthy periods you may still be regarded as being normally resident in Ireland provided that you have personal ties in Ireland and return here regularly. " " Where an Irish licence holder takes up residence in another EU country or the European Economic Area (EEA) – Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland they can drive on their existing Irish driving licence so long as it’s current and valid. They can also exchange their current licence at any time it that country and within 10 years of its expiry. " " You can drive in Great Britain on a full, valid driving licence from another EU country until you’re 70, or for 3 years after becoming resident in Great Britain, whichever is longer. You don’t have to exchange your licence " So if you can legally ride the bike on your Irish licence, you should be able to ride it here. That is if you can find an insurer that will accept your licence. If you can manage to do this then I would use the time to get all of the tests passed. I am not sure how you would go about taking a test here in the UK to add entiltlements onto your Irish licence and it may mean a trip back over the Irish sea to take a test.

Thanks Lee and it was good speaking with you yesterday. I will sort the policy towards the end of the Month.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Quite a few DT175 owners on the forum.

I saw you other post about the license. I thought that you were entitled to drive (ride). in another EEC country if you can do it in your original country. This would only apply if you were visiting of course, so for example, if the bike was registered at an address in Ireland and you had european insurance cover (you would need to check how many days "foreign" cover you were allowed, then you could ride it. A quote. "If you hold a community licence issued in a member state of the EEA and are visiting, you can drive any vehicle provided your licence is valid and it shows the appropriate full entitlement for the vehicle you wish to drive." Obviously this wouldn't apply if you lived in the "foreign" country - wink wink.

I thought I would post this is case it would help clear up what to do if you want to register your imported bike. This should apply to non EU imports. That all said, I can't guarantee the following information but I am following this process at the moment and I will update on any progress or problems. This is what I was told, this morning by the HMRC people who deal with this. So you want to buy a bike imported from outside the UK? - I can see you nodding. You want to register it in the UK and ride it with pride? - I can now see you salivating. The process is easy (sometimes). All you need to do is take all of the paperwork and some cash to to local DVLA office, part with some cash, and you will get a V5, a tax disk and then be able to get a number plate made up and ride the bike. What paperwork do I need? A completed V55 form - you need to order one of these online and the exact one you want is dependent on if the bike is new or not. For a secondhand bike you need a V55/5 A MOT certificate - you take the bike to a MOT center and get them to MOT it on the frame number An insurance certificate - you get insurance on the frame number. Be aware that when you get the bike registered your insurer may charge you for the new certificate A dating letter - If you have no independent proof of the bikes age, you may need to get one of these or get the dreaded Q plate. Paul Dawkins on this site is the person you may want to contact about this stage only A NOVA (Notification of Vehicle Arrivals) number - Now this is where it gets interesting. There are various experiences with using the old C&E386 form and it seems that one Government organisation hasn't spoken to the other and established the rules. At the moment, any bike over 30 years old and imported before April this year does not need a NOVA. That said, it will depend on where you try and register the bike and when you are going to do it. More about this later. Presently the cost of doing this is £55 plus the cost of the road tax. Still with me? OK, back to the NOVA/non-NOVA saga. NOVA is used to register the bike for import/VAT purposes. Previously a C&E386 did this, and still should in some instances. The issue is that the DVLA and HMRC seem to disagree on the rules. The biggest issue is that you may be investing your money to get the bike restored, MOT'ed and insured and without being able to get the bike registered you may be wasting your money. As part of this process, HMRC inform the DVLA about the NOVA number and it should make the actual registration easier as it should appear on the DVLA database at somepoint before you register the bike. How do I get a NOVA number? Well. According to the official people you do one the following: 1) Send your C&E386 form, your receipt for the bike purchase and any associated paperwork - this should include anything relating to the ownership chain (if the bike has been brought and sold a few times) if you have it to the details below. If you brought the bike direct from the importer and they are VAT registered, the receipt should show that you paid VAT on the sale. Remember to send your covering letter with your name, address contact number etc and what you are sending the forms for. Send to: The Car Team HMRC National Clearance Hub Custom House Furness Quay Salford M50 3ZZ If all is OK, they should send you a NOVA reference number by post. You may want to include a postage paid envelope so they can send your stuff back. 2) Get all of the relevant forms scanned into your PC. Send these as attachments (PDF?) to the following email: [email protected] Remember to send your details (name address and why you are doing it) as they can send the numbers out by post or could email them. The good thing about this is that they can't lose the forms and really mess with your brain. This process does include bikes however, If you have any questions you may want to phone them. Here are 3 direct line phone numbers to help. 0161 261 5172 0161 261 5174 0161 261 5176 If you haven't topped yourself or gone into a coma, well done. Please remember that I can't guarantee the information however, this is what I was told this morning. If you don't have the C&E you will probably end up paying the import duty for the bike. I am not sure what bike value they will put the tax on as, by the time they go to value it, it may have been restored by you. When you go to resister the bike they may ask for an inspection however that is not part of what I wanted to communicate in this post and I am losing the will to live at the moment. Good luck!

You need to be sure of the engine number before you do anything. Changing it on the V5 shouldn't be an issue, assuming that it didn't come from a bike that was written off. Just fill in the right number on the V5 and send the form off. Without being sure of the number, ID is difficult. They should all start 35A - 0 then the rest will denote the year.

It reminded me of Billy Goat Gruff.

You can insure on the frame number for the change over. You won't be able to tax it until you get the paperwork to the DVLA. I would use the bike for a while on Irish plates, get the documents from the DVLA. Take the bike for an MOT on the frame number, get insurance on the frame number, take these and some cash to the DVLA office, give them these, the V55 and some cash (£55 plus the tax money) and then they will send you the V5 and a tax disk. You should then tell the insurer of your reg number to get an insurance certificate with the bikes number. Off to halfords and get a number plate made up and you are done. That just leaves your driving licence. I think this is right but it is worth checking as I have been wrong in the past.