DirtyDT

Look at companies such as chipsaway.

Keep the insides clean and well oiled and the outside covered with a nice layer of grime. That's my top tip. Service as per the manual but every 12 months or 6k miles sounds about right. As already mentioned, use a good quality motorcycle oil.

No worries but there was a mention of a donation, or the like. For sale items are free to post for paid up members. Membership is very cheap, in my opinion, and opens up other parts of the forum not available to non paying members. It also supports the site.

http://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/motorcycle-tyres-90-90-21.html http://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/motorcycle-tyres-120-80-18.html

Please see my edit in the original post.

OK. Is it a capless bulb or a bayonet? Make sure that the holder terminals are making contact with the bulb. A multimeter is the best way of testing faulty electrics.

Checking another bulb, as you said, is the first test. If it still doesn't work then it will be the feed or earth to that bulb holder or the holder itself. What does the inside of the holder look like? is it corroded? if not then there will be a break in one of the wires feeding it.

Bulbs are normally held in with rubber plugs. They can be fiddly to change and I don't have any specific knowledge of the YBR. See if you can watch if you get the dealer to change the bulb for future reference. Chains can affect how hard it is to get neutral and I would also check that first. With only 400 miles one the clock I too would get at least a couple of thousand on the bike before I worried. While that is happening you could try to gently rock the bike forward and back as you engage neutral at sets of traffic lights or slowly release the clutch until you can feel the biting point and then pull the clutch in as you search for neutral. Good luck.

Could be between £3.5k to £4k if it's as nice as the picture and there is a lot of paperwork.

I've had a few makes and none seemed to be a problem. I tend to wear kevlar jeans during the summer but I don't wear anything but underwear under those either, It gets too hot. It hasn't been cold enough to put the inner thermals back in. I have only had one pair of leather jeans and those clung when the weather was hot. I much prefer the textile or jeans feel. Presently on Alpinestars goretex textiles and Hood kevlar jeans but have had Richa and RST textiles too without issues.

Air Cooled RD Club - LINKY I have a couple of RD's sitting around in the workshop

I'd say a bad battery too.

Just skiddies under trousers and shirt or t shirt under jacket. I never put the liners in either.

PM Lee@bikesure with your phone number and someone should call you back.

I wouldn't assume it was necessarily a woman, John. Just random text and an image link- which wasn't in the right format.

It's the only thing that could clean big Kevs mind? I have already got one so please don't enter me in the comp. I do, however, need a quote for the FZ this month and have 2 other bikes insured with Bikesure.

Top end says main jet problems or fuel starvation to me. Have you cleaned out the tank breather, the petrol tap filter and are really happy the main jet has no crap in it and the float height in the carbs is set correctly? Do you run an inline fuel filter?

It was for some oil, an oil filter, some chain lube and some air for the tyres. Mind you, that was main dealer prices. I'll just take it one year at a time to decide if I keep up the service history or not. Why would I want to buy a manual? I can get the service specs from the owners manual.

You say you know it isn't the CDI, isn't the carb and isn't the engine. How sure are you on these? What happens when it revs out? Does it hold back? When it revs out is the throttle fully open?

I got relieved of £215 yesterday for a service on the FZ. Not even new plugs included in that. I even wiped the majority of grime off the bike with a dirty rag before I took it to the dealers.

No worries. I am more than just a pretty face.

Chop the last few inches off the legs and put a bigger, curved foot on each. Weld a longer foot bar for better leverage. You only need the rear wheel to lift slightly off the floor to use the stand. All assuming that this would all fit when refitted to the bike. Alternatively cut the side stand so it swivels slightly more to the front of the bike, when down, and weld a bigger foot to it.

You've always had me worried.!

I like George Cole and Old King Cole.

Hi and welcome to the forum.