DirtyDT

You mean "what is a sympathetic, stunning looking woman doing with a bloke like me?". I put it down to wit. I often hear people at work saying "....that bloke is full of wit" well it sounds something like that. I was looking at TDR's but they just don't come up for sale often in anywhere near the condition I would buy one in. There is more chance of Foamy pulling than a good one coming up for sale at a decent price that isn't the other side of the country. Anyway, back to RD. Too dark on the evenings to do much at the moment. I already said the same key fits all of the locks but tried the key in the steering lock last night and it fits and works fine. Checked the engine oil, right amount and crystal clear so new. Checked the 2 stroke oil, full and a clear red. Looked under the seat and there is a Newtronics box there so the bike must be converted to pointless ignition. Started first kick. The battery needs charging a bit but everything seems to work. Looks like a recent chain and sprocket set too. I just hope nothing comes back to bite me as things seem a little too good for what I paid for it

Oh, like a filofax but electrical. I dont understand all this technology anymore, I cant be arsed to set the timers etc on the cooker, bluray thingie or anything else anymore so I have turned into my grandad. I dont actually have any bluray discs but it plays those new fangled DVD thingies too. The world hasn't been the same since they changed the gas lights to those new electrickery ones.

They look great. Astars do make some good stuff.

Hi and welcome to the forum Rob.

Page 4-44 in the manual is a good place to start and look at the diagram on 4-46. If it is the woodruf key it should be able to be fixed with the engine still in the frame and no changes to the timing.

Yes Andrew but you need to take the whole case off, not just a cover. The flywheel should not spin independently of the crank (or piston). The flywheel needs to come off to change the woodruf key. Great suggestion from Paul BTW.

Another workshop question in the New Members Section. Topic locked.

I bought a YBR as a non runner - this means that there could be multiple issues with it not running and makes diagnosing things a little more difficult. I had to do a top end rebuild on it, everything seemed fine and went well. - Did it run after the rebuild? Why was the rebuild necessary? Did whoever did the bebuild do a proper job and got all of the settings correct? It does start but only with easy start - This is really a positive, It may rule out major electrical issues however, minor ones may still lurking When it does start the revs seem to sit quite high - Carb or injection? Did the re-builder check the bore and piston rings? The starting may be helped by taking out the plug, while the plug is out, check what kind of spark you are getting, Pour a spoonful of engine oil down the bore and get the piston moved up and down a couple of times - in gear and rock the bike does it. Leave the plug out overnight. tomorrow fit a NEW plug and try again. The bore could be washed out with fuel and there is not enough compression for the bike to start. It takes a faulty plug out of the equation. Don't forget to say hi.

You really need to say a hello in the New Members Section as most people don't reply to first post question. Did you set the timing chain correctly?

What's a blog?

What's a vlog?

Check the HT lead connections at the coil end and the cap end too and any coil earth. Pour a spoonful of fuel down the plug hole, replace the plug and see what happens.

Yep, welcome back.

A yellow spark isn't good. Big, fat and blue one is very good. Keep us up to date.

Maybe this is your year to get one Tommy.

Have you sorted this yet Andrew?

Nooooooo. One is almost original anyway, that just needs a check over to make sure the jetting is right and a service and should be ready for a run to the MOT station, the other is going right back to the frame restore, back to near standard. I do like the cafe racer style but, in my opinion, that is not for these bikes. The XS is a much better bike to do this too, you only have to look at Drewpy's XS to see that. Cheers. I am pleased so far. Just need a TDR250 a KDX and a TS90 (my first bike) now to get a complete set. I don't think I will get any more until I have completed (or nearly) the ones I have. I need a big shed now but I am having to hold off due to a few house/building reasons but this should be sorted by February. I took the long route to work on the FZ8 this morning so it wouldn't feel lonely. 90 miles on that now and it is now filthy

Check the latest one for safety and ride it. Restore the rough one and ride it too.

To adjust gear lever Convenient switching without contortions Since the purchase I get annoyed when shifting a little. The shift lever is not actually incorrect: If you were to push the boots to stop the heel to the front, I can easily shift down. However, the upshift, I have a strong tendency to bottom, the toe of his boot. At slightly bulkier boots (like the Alpinestars on the image), it is actually impossible to turn without contortions reasonable or the toe of lower back enough after the upshift. Previous shift lever position my YBR 125 Kinking of the boots cumbersome or impossible I've looked at the side shots of some YBR 125 on the internet. If it's not just the data published by a learner presumably before the first use advertising shots of driving schools, the shift lever has been placed at least one notch up. The problem seems therefore to have not just me? Even with my tour boots I had begun to turn to the very end of the tip. That did not turn to any attempt been successful, was the unpleasant side effect. In this setting the shift lever is one of the easiest adjustments that are possible on the YBR 125. Shift shaft at removed shifter The teeth in the gear lever In order to find it for a personal best position of the shift lever to set the machine best on the center stand (if available, the newer models have indeed "only" have the side stand). In normal sitting posture of the foot or boots should then be advised of the catch, both on the rubber of the shift lever loose and without twisting and putting down the boot. That's the theory, but I seem in terms of my feet and my shoes do not quite fit for YBR 125. Either I have with shoe size 42 too big or too long feet, or I'm just a little awkward. If the distance between the footrest and switching role only about 2 inches longer, I would probably get rid of all worries and problems relative to the engagement. Unfortunately, the YBR offers the only possibility of setting the displacement of the shift lever to. Anyway, I have decided to move the lever once by two teeth up. Two teeth upwards affect so from 10 Nut and away you go Should it happen to me then after a long ride too high, I can still go back by one tooth down. In the picture it looks the way still higher than it is in reality, probably throws which the rubber from the shift lever for the shadows. As can be seen on the screen below, the shift lever is held by a bolt on the selector shaft. A change of the position of the shift lever does not really require much more than a little time and a nut 10 together with ratchet or ratchet. Detail of the screw on the shift lever Define some terms on the edge or at the end: On eBay I'm looking for parts for the YBR encountered the term "shift drum" for the rubber coating on the shift lever. However, the shift drum is not the coating of rubber, but a part of which is seated on the switching shaft. Deep Link How to position the foot? Granted, the pictures are not just perfect for illustrating. Outside, the shots would probably be better but when it rains, I then but preferred to let the camera and machine dry. First, two well-known and frequently encountered, but unfortunately just rather not worth imitating positions for the foot: The "Seitwärtsabspreizer" The "Seitwärtsabspreizer" While the foot is pushed to the "Snap" on the heel to the front, turning off the toes off the bike and placed it next to brake and shift. Not only that you look like a frog, you will also automatically in this position, the knee from the tank. Overall, it sits slightly wakelig on the machine and works a lot with the shoulders and arms to feel safe and secure. In the end, one feels not only in the upper body plenty exhausted, but must in dangerous situations raise the foot to brake and turn inward. This takes time and ensures also happen to be for a certain restlessness of the motorcycle. The "duration brakeman" The "duration brakeman" Jokingly also "Einbremser" or "extremely careful driver" called. The foot is advanced on both sides until it stops at the heel. With smooth tour boots remains sitting on the footrest on usually with the middle of the foot. I must admit to be driven themselves for quite a while. Was seemingly comfortable and I have imagined being able to activate as well as faster the foot brake. Finally, one is constantly in "Have Eight" position. Even here, however, for me the side effect that I have mostly taken the knees quite far from the tank and a total of (subjective) was sitting a little unstable. Other drivers prefer exactly this position. But: They then usually also the possibility to set the brake and shift levers clean and fine. This is absent in the YBR 125, unfortunately. Maybe it would work with enough distance between the footrest and role on the shift with me? I'll probably find it at the earliest with the change to a different machine. In any case I especially noticed it when cornering and longer distances: the knee gradually go to the tank and somehow I was even more enjoyable than before - so at least my subjective perception if I can hook of "boots on the heel" position in the as next position described'm changed: Place the boots only with the heel on the passenger footrests. As it is explained in driver safety training From the driver safety training Almost everywhere read in German forums: Organised by ADAC or similar institutions driver safety training and have what the riders and drivers in their efforts noticed and taken to tips on the foot position so. Very often it is reported that they now change their seating position permanently (want to) and this in particular because they place their feet differently. When driving the foot is set up with only the ball of the foot on the pegs. This results in a better ride while you sit comfortable when the thighs are not rotated with the outside. By the way, is your ability to turn less risk with the toe set up on the tarmac. Although it is customary in some circuits, to compare the worn toe slider. However, by a different driving habit than by the "frog position" use. What I have not yet succeeded with shoe size 42 in the YBR 125: The heel of the boot back to the turn off the approach of the passenger footrests. At least, this is probably recommended in safety training. The YBR 125, the distances are too great for it then probably significantly. If the foot rests only with the bale on the footrest, you have to walk to the shifting and braking course again implement. However, I did not feel this was a problem. Especially when braking simply uses an automatism. When driving a car, I have the feet also do not constantly the clutch when I then brake must he is automatically there. In any case, it looks more sporty - just look at the round-propelled "frogs" eighth. To quote my driving instructor: "The feet are on the pegs and not in the air." Maybe it's the "frogs", which also hang out at start both feet long? I have to go look more closely at ...

No!! The bitsa needs a good going over, a 400D engine, the proper carbs, an airbox and and a set of pipes. This is a restore. 400D engine brought and in the other room Correct carbs brought and in the shed Airbox should be picked up early Feb Pipes - Not done anything about these yet It's going back on the road as a proper 400. I will probably sell the RD250 engine and the 400E carbs off it but no plans to do that at the moment. Cheers Mervin. More stupid questions coming from me on the ACRD forum and a possible trip to the annual rally again this year. This time on a RD. Pics and a video A short video is here. It was hard to start the bike from the right with one hand on the camera but it does start. Excuse the garden. I am doing some groundwork in it. VIDEO LINKY

That could be read very wrong!!

Can you engage the clutch, jiggle the sprocket and try and engage gear? You may need 3 hands to do it.

Sound advice but it was worth the money just for parts to rebuild the first one so I took a risk. I think it paid off. It is far from a dog. I was just going to check it for safety and leave it the way it is, maybe just add some mirrors. Definitely no tarting with it. I forgot to bring the reg number with me today so I can get it insured. I contacted Lee from Bikesure about adding it to my TS classic policy and the cost, fully comp, with recovery, was about £62. If you read this Lee I will contact you tomorrow with the number and get it on with the TS.

True about the mileage Tommy. My TS250 has about 500 miles showing because I put a NOS speedo on it during the rebuild. The true mileage on it is about 17k based on old MOT's. That is a T plate too.