DirtyDT

PM recieved and one returned. I should ask what style of floor tile you would like as your refund? Would it be best if I returned all payments? Just let me know but be aware that if I do my stepkids may not eat for a month. No pressure but you know what to do if you have any kind of moral compass. It's bin day today so let me know asap as I might be able to retrieve a few scraps from it before the dustbin men collect it.

These little strokers are easy to work on but you need to be systematic when they give you problems. Before you do anything you need to assure yourself that the carb is rebuilt properly and set to factory specs. Make sure the spark plug is the correct one and is gapped properly (always good to have a few set up). White smoke from a 2 stroke is quite normal but it will smell different if it is burning gearbox oil. So with the carb set and spark plugs at the ready you can check the next item; the airbox. I am assuming that the bike has the standard airbox and the filter has been cleaned/replaced and oiled with the correct oil? If not, read no further and get this sorted next. If all of the above is fine you can then move on to checking for air leaks. With the engine running you need to spray around several areas to see if air is being sucked in, the engine note/speed will change as you spray if you have a leak. Using something like WD 40, spray around any rubber part that connects the airbox to the engine so airbox to inlet tube, inlet tube to carb, carb to engine barrel. If when spraying the engine note changed then you will need to sort out where the leak is. The rubbers get hard with time and heat. Ok so we have the carb in spec, some spark plugs in spec, we know the air filter is clean and oiled and we know that there are no air leaks on the inlet side of the engine. Time to tackle the seals. Generally the left seal keeps out air and the right seal keeps out oil. They too get hard and stop doing their job over time and heat. Take off the left crankcase cover (left and right references are with you sitting on the bike ). With the cover off you will normally see the rotor. This will spin with the bike started so, being safe, start the bike. You should see the rotor spinning. Carefully spray some WD 40 behind the rotor whilst listening for a change in engine noise. If there is a change then this seal will need to be changed. That should keep you busy for a while but make sure you complete the steps because if you just throw the carb back together and it is out of spec or the plug you are using should be for a tractor you will never get the enormous happiness that is riding and smelling a 2 stroke. It is something to be savioured.

Sounds like crank seals may be shot. It is important that the carb is set correctly however, the symptoms you are describing sounds like seals. If it is them then - depending on how bad they are - the following will happen; The bike will start cold with choke. When revved the bike will rev high but not return to idle quickly. It just sits at a high rev rate and then slowly returns to idle but tends to cut out if not "blipped" by using the throttle. It will tend to get worse when the engine heats up. It may run better when hot with the choke on for short periods. The left hand seal will suck in air causing a weak mixture and you will never get the bike to idle correctly. The right hand seal will suck in gearbox oil which will be burnt during the combustion phase. Some left hand seals can be replaced without splitting the engine.

Hahaha DT. I have a floor mat ready for all left in.

PM received, dealt with and PM sent back to you Jimmy.

Don't give them ideas Tommy, if they ask for the money back I will have to sell one of my bikes!

Or a mixture of all 3?

Great song.

Water in the oil = mayonaise Seals, gasket or warped head. If you changed the seals with genuine ones then either the gaskets were cheap ones or the gaskets can't seal correctly as the head is warped.

Thats for camping/evening Kev. Free for the day visitor (I think). Squires have camping charges too this year.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The main earth is the frame. As DT says, the battery to harness/frame is connected at many places. It is important that the battery, engine and frame are earthed together well.

Anyone else going? I think it clashed with a Fizzie rally last year. I will pop up on Saturday on RD400-1 (I hope) - free entry for non campers.

As the answers above, it makes no difference. Loud is good on a dirt bike.

When was the Irish boy born then Mike?

Hi and welcome to the forum.

A railway turntable would do it. I better get the angle grinder out I have an Abba stand for the FZ - LINKY. The RD's and TS have tube frames at the bottom and a couple of 4x4 wooden blocks work a treat with the stand. The YA-6 I can lift up and almost turn over like a pushbike.

Oh yessssss You can have a ride around on mine at Squires if you want. It has eaten a few quid to get it to this stage.

It was sections. 2 each side, 1 each front and back and 4 bits for the roof. My bike lift is under the YA-6 at the moment. I don't want a full length lift as I would like to be able to rotate the bike, once up.

Hahaha. I rarely drink anymore so a beer fridge would be a waste. The better half said I should get a kettle and a radio - they are possibles. Security wise I might get the stepkids to sleep in it. I haven't mentioned it yet. I have a fire extinguisher to go in it and that is about it. Tiles wise, have a look here LINKY They are a bugger on your knees but I am really impressed with them. They come in different colours and either checker or penny designs, from different suppliers I think. I went for checker. They reckon they can be cut with a sharp knife but a stanley with a new blade was a struggle so I used a fine tooth saw. They are quite thick.

So far this thread has been about getting a workshop ready to sort the bikes out. I have almost finished this so I will start to move over to the bikes. First on the list is RD400 -1. As well as tackling the advisories from the MOT and the 2 stroke oil leak I have decided to do a little more work on it. Most of the parts I need have arrived and the bits I will do - with piccies of course - are: Change the wheels to the new ones I have (new bearings and seals) - this ticks off the rear tyre perishing and the front rim being a little out of true from the MOT advisories. Change the fork seals - advisory. Change the steering head bearings - advisory. Find out which 2 stroke oil pipe has split and replace all of the 2 stroke oil lines. Lots of Gunk will be needed here as the hole of the bottom of the bike is coated in the stuff. While I am cleaning the oil off I will whip off the swingarm and change the bushes. I have also decided to replace the rubber carb inlets and airbox tubes, brake pads, fuel lines and give the bike a service. At the moment I am undecided as to changing the reeds, painting the cylinders and getting the brake cylinders and calipers restored. The bike needs to be rideable for the RD rally in June.

Er thanks - I think. You could always leave your TDR here over the summer provided you don't check the mileage before you drop it off. I will take very good care of it Shortfall of tiles ordered. How it looks today

Quick update. Work is progressing. The Sparks who was going to wire the workshop tomorrow came today to put a new consumer unit (fuse board) in the house. While he was here he did the workshop too to save coming back tomorrow. All of the tiles brought, are laid (more about that later ) and a few bits going in. The workbench is wobbly as I need 2x 17mm spanners to put it together but they are out of reach at the moment. ..... now back to the flooring. 49 tiles down (I messed 1 up) however................................................... ..........................................I am 11 short! What a plonker

I would recommend the higher tyre pressures too.