DirtyDT

I had a look at the compressor. It is duel voltage at either 110 or 220. There is no start button but a large electrical box which may contain a capacitor. I wired up a 15 amp lead and plugged it in. It fired up and ran. No fuse blowing which is what I was getting last night so I guess It would run from a 15amp caravan type lead. set the built in pressure gauge and it maintained pressure with the pump cutting in and out. I have Wd'ed anything that needs it including the safety valve. The pressure gauge goes to 140PSI before it hits the red. The hose connector is arrowed it the picture below. It was running when I took the picture and not too noisy so that is a bonus.

It is single phase 240v. Just plug it in. It must draw a lot of power on start up as it blows 13amp fuses. I am not sure if there is some kink of converter in there I have only just got it but will look tomorrow.

It weighs the same as a tank. The tank is the frame. all sealed and with the valve tapped into it.

Tis true but what goes around, comes around

Hi, I always use the biggest one! Later I pop into next doors garden at midnight to retrieve the bolt. I also deny that I am a voyeur.

No problems. Better than 135 Bucks!

I am aiming to fabricate a box if I get time. until then a hand held gun. The guy delivered the compresser. Err it is very heavy - I grew another B*ll*ck carrying it in with the guys help. I need to 16 amp wire it though as it is blowing 13amp fuses on start up. I hope her in doors does not want to dry her hair or put the kettle on If I get on with it I will treat myself to a nice portable one in the future. If not, back on hbay. It cost me £21 including delivery. Here she is

A bit of a wash out weekend. I am stuck for a couple of day's as I can not get the pivot bolt out of the frame. I did mention this in a different thread but no amount of WD or hitting it with larger and larger hammers is budging it. I have decided to cut it out. To gain access to it the engine is coming out BUT I am still waiting for the big one tail pipe (This has been ongoing since 17 May and I had to return one) but they said Wednesday so I will wait for that, fit it and make sure that it is OK prior to ripping the engine out. I think I can get it off without damaging to frame or swingarm but I will see. With the bike this stripped down this much I may as well shot blast and paint the frame. Pictures below of where I am. The screwdriver is there so that the swingarm does not press onto the rear of the engine. BTW I know that one of the engine bolts is missing for the eagle eyed out there It was like that when I brought the bike.

I am presuming that you had it running fine at sometime in the past! It runs fine with the filter and cover off so it sounds like fuel/air mix. Take the filter out but replace all of the air box. If it runs fine then it will be the air mix. Change the filter. If it runs fine - no problems. Cake the carb off and check the carb fitting to to cylinder. There is an O ring. is air being sucked in here? I would also reclean the carb with carb cleaner. Carb holes are very small and it onlt takes a small amount of grit to block a jet. Don't run the bike for long periods with the filter off but it seems the the mix is better when the airflow is stronger (no filter = less resistance) so a blockage of air or the filter is not coping. If the resistance of air is too great (filter on) it is sucking in air from somewhere else (maybe via the O ring on the inlet).

Do you think I should use a bigger shed then? I was joking She keeps measuring me up for an overcoat - she never said it was a wooden one I would rather pop in to Adli's than phone them. They do have lots of bits. I may get to collect the compressor today. I think it is going to be bigger than I thought. It is the type that holds the air in the tubular frame. If it does a turn, great, if not it was only about 20 quid.

"Lucky git" I know I will be in Aldi's tomorrow

barkwindjammer - I could lead line it I was trying to keep away from the dust. Power to the shed is not a problem just the safey issues. She is my girlfriend/partner person and should be bringing me cold beers. If anyone is interested there were a couple of the blaster kits like OG's on hbay for a tenner each.

Check the part number but try Here

I am interested in your comments please!! I brought a cheap compressor off hbay this morning and it made me think. Inspired by OG's thread of shot blasting an exhaust I wondered if I could "adapt" a shed to shot blast larger items. The shed is old anyway but is this shape Anyway. I was thinking that if I tarpaulined it out and cut two holes for my hands in the perspex windows would I be able to use it as a large shot blast cabinet? I know I can get items blasted and painted for not a lot of money and my finish may not be as good as a professional but it would allow me to blast anything at my leisure. Not just the present bike but any one I get for my next project. I will get a bench cabinet for smaller items but any comments would be welcome! Cheers.

Thanks OG, At the moment I am on my Hundreth spray of WD. I was looking at the tytrials website earlier and it looks like the TY has the same problem. They are advocating the hacksaw method but I may have to get the engine out to get to one side. I will give it until tomorrow with lot of WD and then try yours. Last resort is the hacksaw but I would like to save the bolt if it is true as they are lots of cash. Cheers

I was ready to rip the back off this morning. The bike is on the stand but it rained all night and most of the morning. The rain stopped and out I went. Off with the chain and rear wheel, no problems. Now ready for the swing arm. I unbolt the shock nut but where the bike is on the stand the bolt is in line with the frame so jack up the swing arm a little and drive the bolt out with ease. Now the swing arm to frame pivot bolt. The nut is quite loose so off it comes. The bolt is turning easily so I go to drive the bolt out. It is solid. It spins but does not drive out. The swing arm is supported but as I spin the bolt the arm moves a little so I am guessing that the pivot bolt is bent, the long bearing is bent or the bolt is seized in the long bearing and the movement is just shot bearings. What a PITA. In for a cup of tea and a count to ten after a huge soaking of WD. It looks like my trusty junior hacksaw will be coming out soon. I MAY be able to cut the bolt each end where the thrust covers and shims are, if there is room.

I did see these OG and had a bid but as I type they are at £130. Too rich at the moment!!

They did call a few models "Enduro" but that was to pump the macho egos of the youth. You would not want to enter the Paris - Dakar on one A little ride on wet grass would throw you off. All the Trails of the day were basically road bikes with a bigger front wheel and an upswept exhaust. I think it is a KE100 but they also did 125 and 175's. It was a funny time for UK bikers. The law was we could ride upto 250cc with L plates, no test. Everyone was trying to get GT250 (Suzuki), RD 250 (Yamaha) or KH250 (Kwaka) all 2 stroke roadbikes. The Suzi and Kwaka were 2 cylinders and the Kwazi a triple. On the Honda front I can only remember the 250 Superdream which was a 4 stroke twin but was for old men. When I picked up my TS90 from the shop I had pulled away and stoped on my friends bike a few times. That was my whole experience of biking. I went to the shop, paid the cash, got the keys and I was on my own. 34 years later and I am still here - Just!!

Class Apart from the regulation stuff the only rule was if it was on the bike it had to work. I am looking at a daytime MOT so no lights etc for the short term but I would not butcher the bike (like some previous owners) to get one. In the car you don't need to have a spare wheel but if you have one it has to be legal.

Does it smell fowl? My ex is still in mine. It is a pain in the A*se when I want to get the chips out.

Ouch

A couple of pictures which may help. The larger black pipe is the pipe from the oil tank to the pump. The clear one is from the pump to the carb. The pump showing the pipes. Clear one to the rear. Notice that I have changed the bleed bolt, the oil pump fitting bolts and the crankcase bolt. All of these were mangled so the main ones I have changed to stainless Allen bolts.

Damn... Well spotted Cynic. It is missing those but I am going back to strip the frame at some point this year so they will be manufactured or ground down and different ones fitted. It is also missing one tab from the lower plastic mud guard but this is attached to the plastic so I can refit that. The swing arm is missing the bracket that holds the bottom of the chain guard. This will be fixed once I get the swing arm off tomorrow and have given it several coats of Nitromores. I am going to PJ1 satin black the frame and swing arm - I think???

It looks like a KE Kawasaki. I had a TS90 as a first bike which was Suzukis trails. I was riding it in 1977

I think JimR has answered one point. Speedo's are not accurate anyway so a little tyre wear will not make much difference. The tensioner sits behind the side stand and bolts to the swing arm. It keeps the slack in the chain, controlled. Part 22 Here plus all of the other bits. There is a hbayer on the us site selling one with a couple of other bits for $15. Unfortunatly I am in good ole England so the postage would be horrendus. Thanks for the battery info but as I am a few miles away the postage would be too much again. There are lots of local places I can get one but not the weekend for that. I am set up for ripping off the back end this weekend. I just picked up the stand. £18. I am well pleased.