DirtyDT

Hi and welcome to the forum.

What about Drewp's Gilera forks?

Check the crankcase breather at the rear of the engine and if that is OK I would not worry about it. Lots of spinning cogs in the gearbox which creates air turbulence and splatter. Take it for a good blast. Before you do clean the plug, change the fuel and oil, check the tyres and brakes.You can adjust an idle

Hi and welcome to the forum. I haven't been to the Kursaal for a while. Southend used to be my mates and I ride out in the 70's.

There seems to be a glitch with some picture posting at the moment. It is intermittent so trying again may get the pics up.

I filter a lot quicker than I guess I really should. On the plus side, I occupy a space for a shorter period of time than if I was going slower, on the down side, I would find it hard to stop if I needed to. A throwback from learning to ride in a big city and doing a spell of M/C courier work The way I see it is that there aren't any real rules however; I always look for anyone wearing any kind of hat (number 1 rule). I always keep an eye out if one lane is frequently moving faster than the other(s). I always take extra care when filtering where a road joins the one I am on. I always observe as far down the lines of traffic as I can to identify any car that has changed lanes or has attempted to. I always look out for cyclists because you never know when they are going to sweep out from the curb into the gap between the cars that you are riding into.

A lot of it spent on here.

.....................same I suppose, (huff).....................

Not true Ken. Chow mein and crispy duck mate. 2 winners there.

Hi Lee(?) I doubt if you will get many replies. This section is to say "hello" and introduce yourself (a little about you any your bike(s)). Most people on the forum prefer a "hello" post before a question post. "Please" and "thank you's" seem to go down well here as well. That said, It does sound like a sticky piston which will ruin your disk by overheating and eventually warping it.

Jap bikes won back then because they were faster more reliable, didn't leak oil, shake bits loose or burst fork seals every 100 yards. Admittedly the Jap bikes had issues. The tyres were made of bakerlite (they never wore out but never gripped anything either), some of the big bike frames were not up to the job and caused enough worry at speed to cause the dirtying of underwear and lastly the brakes never worked in the wet to the point that they actually said as much on stickers stuck to the forks. Chinese bikes on the other hand are just badly made and the metal is so thin that It resembles the thickness of cooking foil. As an example, how can you make a clone of a Honda CG125 - a bike that has been around for decades, is known for its resilience & reliability and has been abused by more learners than anyone can wave a stick at - and make it crap?

That is bad news Kev. At least it is the end of the year. I hope you and yours have a great 2013 and hope to see you later in the year at Squires.

You can buy a new Yamasaki (I kid you not) for under £600. LINKY Werry rubbery machines.

I thought I would bump this thread back to the top as it is something I have been considering for a while for the TS. The TS is similar, electrically, to the DT, 2 lighting circuits; lights and; battery/the rest. To complicate matters a little the UK model does not have a regulator (the US one does). The both have rectifiers. Since the rebuild, the bike quickly killed the cheap 6v battery and seems to have boiled it dry. I could fit a simple regulator as the wiring is there for a single wire DT type but thought I might try the "full monty". As with the DT's, the 6 volt battery options are limited as I was looking for a sealed battery a while ago and could not find one. So I am thinking of 2 options; 1) replace the rectifier with a 6v rectifier/regulator and run a battery eliminator 2) full monty 12v with battery or battery eliminator Both of these, from what I can see, would require the same wiring so there is a possibility that they can be switched easily between 6v and 12v. My plan it to look at wiring like so I have ordered a 12v rec/reg and 12v flasher unit. I have most of the bulbs and now need to decide whether to go for a battery or battery eliminator. Before I do this I will wait for the items to arrive and then see what output I get using an old 12v battery. As with everything, I don't know if this will work and if you try it yourself, you may destroy something so be warned. Any comments welcome.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Have a search to see what you need to know and then ask. There are lots of sections accessed through the home page. Good luck.

Good man.

Welcome to the forum. This section is to say hello, which you have done. Wanted items can be posted in the "Wanted section" which is accessible for paid members. I hope this does not put you off the forum, we are a friendly bunch (most of the time).

Show winning stuff Airhead. MInd you, the DT always looks spot on. The drilled through the pivot bush is a great tip. People drill and tap the swingarm and then fit a grease nipple and all of the seizing is inside this bush and the swingarm bolt which gets little of no grease.

Some carbs have 2 throttle cables, one to pull and one to push. The TS is like this but I have a single cable conversion on it. In many decades of riding I have never managed to break a throttle tube.

The fame and engine numbers do not need to match but it is best that the engine is the same year as the frame. The more parts from different bikes or years increases the chance of a "Q" plate. The bike needs to be MOT'ed. This can be done on the frame number when the bike is rebuilt. You then need to fill in the DVLA forms and give them some cash to get bike registered and a plate issued. There are pitfalls. If the frame was imported then you might need to prove that any import duty was paid at the time of import. You also need to make sure the frames are not stolen or marked as "written off".

It looks snapped. The idea is that the cylinder shaped nipple slides through the - what should be round - hole and the wire fits through the slit. Some have one cable connector and some some two but they should look like this (a 2 hole example).

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I can't help but some interesting reading here LINKY

Very strange. I know that there are issues with some mobile devices at the moment. I will link this to the mobile issues as see if something has changed to create this problem.

This tends to happen when the link to the image is coded. If you look at the link there will normally be a series of alphanumeric characters however, no .jpg (.bmp etc). This can be for a number of reasons such as; to stop hotlinking of pictures or; auto coded to generate a thumbnail of the picture. You can normally get over this by bringing the image up on screen and then right clicking to get the image location. Always look for a picture extension at the end of the links so things like: .jpg .bmp .png .gif Plus loads more but these should work.