DirtyDT

At the moment is Sunny Shelthorpe. What about you? Looking to move in a year or so to Nanpanton/Forest Road or maybe Shepshed. Whatever my beautiful other half wants. You need to come to my work Jason. Astounding brains, no common sense and little knowledge of life - or dress sense - especially the Prof's!!

Looked at your bobber and had a recent bid on a xvs 125 as a project. Didn't win it though.

I have had some very odd friends I would rather not see again John!!

Sorry but I have to say it. I hope they catch the scum and cut their bo11ocks off. It is a great place to visit. I loved it there.

Not all bad then!

Hi and welcome to the forum. I will keep an eye out for the XJ

I can't help, I have never seen a farcebook page. Haven't seen twit- ter either. I don't understand why anyone would want to know when I went to the toilet and stuff like that. Must be an old age thing!

I tried that but ended up kicking her into touch. Much easier. If you have any questions, just pop them into the relevant sections found on the home page. Don't tell anyone but I actually like the Drag star.

What would you like to know about the wiring? I have never found a readable diagram on the net either.

Hi and welcome to the forum. 25 years of hard labour was it?

That is really bad news mate. Fix it, get it home, sell it and buy another. A 2 stroke this time.

Are you sure that the word and pictures match? I didn't know old minis had things like "Seat belt warning diodes". The first problem is that you have a diagram with 2 fuses and a picture with 4 pictures. Personally, I would run a live to the stalks fuse if things wound me up to much. however, All cars are different but I do recall that live feeds to the stalks were often from the hazard switch. I also recall that often the horns worked without the ignition being on. You only need 2 circuits to work without the ignition: 1) Hazards 2) interior lights The diagram looks like the Mauve is the feed to the stalk however, the mauve in on the second fuse in the picture ?? I would go 1) confirm what works and doesn't as it is 2) check everything works when a feed is put directly into fuse 3 3) identify what side of the fuse board is live, thus identifying what wire is causing the issue (green/white or green/brown 4) ask yourself; should anything work from fuse 3 that doesn't need the ignition 5) confirm is the car has an alternator or dynamo 6) check the rear of the ignition switch for any broken wires 7) check the hazard switch for any issues 8) run a short piece of wire with 2 spade connectors from a different fuse to fuse 3 using the unused spades on the board 9) check if everything works with the short wire in place 10) using the answer from number 3, find out where this wire leads 11) get a better wiring diagram with the correct wiring layout Not sure if this is helpful. Oh yeh, just to tell you I have never owned a Mini. Yet!!

I don't know, the number of strokes is right for me but it is much too modern for my liking. Maybe someone else on the forum could give you a better idea.

You can advertise it on this site LINKY and ask for offers or put it on ebay. Not having a minimum price will put a lot of people off though.

I will offer 99p if you can deliver it.

You made me shoot off to fleabay to have a look at those. Halfrauds ones are £25. You made me loose my fleabay place now . I was looking at Frogeye Sprints.

Bi metal is 2 different metals, normally in a coil that control something. The metals expand differently at temperature and the coiling/uncoiling of the strip is used for control. Use to be used in carbs to operate the choke by using the water heat as the first auto choke. I think that some old air cooled beetles and Porche's use a similar method for air diversion, via flaps, for when the engine is cold or hot. In old instruments it can control the temperature gauge (there will be a thin tube with water in it from the engine) or stabilise the fuel gauge (in old cars the fuel gauge goes up and down each time you turn a corner and the idea was to minimise this - didn't work very well.

There have been a lot of older bike strip threads started recently so I thought I would post about the old skool armature removal. The armature is a wire coil that forms part of the generator/starter. The part is generally held in place as a press fit on the end of the crankshaft and has a woodruff key to stop it spinning. A bolt may or may not hold this is place but the armature will be a very tight fit and will not just pull off. Yamaha have a special tool to remove them however, they do seem to be scarce (unless people know better?). The only one I can see for sale at the moment is here LINKY This is for a couple of specific models and I am not sure how universal they are. Without the special tool, it seems that it is not too difficult to manufacture one. The problem is that you will need to use precise materials. You may get away with a bolt and a cut down drill shaft provided they are glued, welded, or otherwise fixed together. Otherwise you will lose the cut down drill inside the armature itself. The important part Looking at the YA earlier, it seems that the most important part is to make sure that the bolt you use is of the correct material and of good quality. The armature has a thread that is used to tighten the removal tool. much this up and you may never get the armature off without breaking it. The YA armature has a standard M8 thread. I took a few M8 bolts to mine this evening, many I could wobble into the threaded hole. Only 2 actually tightened up. The best one was one that came with an ABBA stand accessory. All fitted the same nut so there are some huge quality issues with some bolts. My armature is still on the bike. I ordered a blind bearing puller earlier and will see if the 8mm thread off one of the collets is up to the job. I intend to pull mine off. Oh, one last thing, don't drop it when it pops off.

I looked a while ago at some BSA'a B40/B50's I think. I would have to invest in some A/F/Whitworth/Imperial spanners and sockets as well. Maybe a couple of imperial screwdrivers . Haven't had a chance to go to Aldi today so it will be later in the week I think.

I'd agree with Slice. Welcome Matt. Can't help with the problem though.

Fundamentally correct. You may have an air leak. When did you last change/clean/oil (if appropriate) the air filter?

Keep the bike on the main stand so that the rear wheel is clear of the floor. With one hand, move the rear wheel a little, with the other push or pull the gear lever. It should engage. Do this with the engine off (obviously). Remember to return the bike to neutral before leaving it. Easier with the plugs removed once in gear.

Cheers guys. I will swing past aldi on the way home. Lets home they have some in. I popped in there a few weeks ago after getting the heads up that they had some biking gear. Brought a cheap bike lock and a set of taps & dies. Should have looked closer at the t&d's as some are imperial sizes, live and learn. Used one of the metric ones the other day and it was very good.

Open faced, flip or standard? I like AGV helmets K4 or S4 worth a look.