DirtyDT

Put it in a crate and send it to me please.

That SR doesn't look half bad Foams. Hardtail it, forward controls and lose the plastic. Get a few beers down you and go onto fleabay for a welder and a big angle grinder

I am with Bippo and Cynic on this. You can go the full spectrum from bike designed to free maps on your phone. I use a newish Tomtom on a Ram mount so it is easy to remove for security and to change bikes. Once most satnavs are over a year old, the maps are too expensive to update and it is better value to get a new satnav (I know that some deals have lifetime maps - my Garmin does). 1 inch ram mounts and a tomtom cradle set up on the SV The Ram mounts are expensive but just take them off when you sell the bike. Please check the French law. I think it is now illegal to have a satnav with traffic cameras in France. Even if it is turned off. More kerching from us British.

The 2 stroke weekend is definitely off for me. Fizzie weekend to be confirmed.

If you have had foam sucked into the carbs then you are in trouble. Never heard of that to be honest. Let me know when you have checked my previous list and which cylinder it is.

Cheers mate.

Dodgy air filter, Choke issue and a black plug = running to rich. Change the filter and sort the choke out. Bar wise - you need to check if the bars are symmetrical. The bars could be bent or the forks may be out. You may get some joy by loosening the bolts that hold the forks to the yolks and then re-tightening but be careful that the bike doesn't drop down the forks. Chances are the forks are bent and will need replacing.

Looks like we are getting the band back together. Just to let you know that squires is almost definitely off for me now. I have had to cancel my family holiday next week and am looking to push it back to a week that clashes with that event. There are always future years but I need to get my family away for a family break. Some of you will know the reasons behind this. And no, none of the bikes are for sale.

Thanks guys. I'll never see 21 again.

Still sounds like a fuelling issue. Is the air filter new? Could be the choke and did you rebuild the carb and re set everything like the float height? Check the carb to air filter tube for splits. As for the wheel and handlebar issue, you need to determine what is out, the wheel or the bars. Bars can bend if the bike has been dropped and wheels/forks can twist. The latter can make it interesting when braking as it will "kick up" when you apply the brakes. Is one bar higher than the other or are the bars not straight when the wheel is pointing forward?

No worries. There and an increasing number of techie questions being started in the bar and new members areas. I am at work at the moment but if no one else moves it I will move it later. Have you determined which cylinder is cutting out? The front one is a barsteward to mess with as it is so close to the rad. Things I would do are; Check both plugs and plug caps - tightness, gap and loose ht leads Check the fuel and vacuum hoses under the tank for pinching and splits Check the choke cables to each carb to make sure one isn't seized Check the air filter box in on the carbs correctly and check the air filter is clean Then check the coils as previously mentioned The sv's are prone to running on one cylinder even in light rain unless you have a fenda extenda. Check you have no water or oil leaks that are only apparent at temperature and this isn't shorting out the plug. I have had mine 3 years and apart from a speedo sensor and a holed oil filter all I have done is service it and the usual consumables like tyres and batteries. They are reliable bikes and fun to throw around.

No worries DT, I just didn't want him to start looking for a pump somewhere. If it was in the workshop section I would have thrown in a few ideas.

The Curvy does not a fuel pump. Vacuum air fed.

Cant use tyre weld on tube tyres....................at least I don't think you can. I would take a teddy bears picnic.

As above really. While you are at it you need to check that the sprockets are OK. The teeth should not be pointed or turned over at the ends. Regular chain adjusting and lubing is important. Don't be tempted to overtighten, there should be some slack. And before you start, Move the rear wheel and check how slack the chain is at certain points. They do not wear evenly so it is common to have one part slacker than the rest.

Welcome to the forum "Big Chris".

The next thing I would do is take the carb off, strip and clean it. I would also drain the fuel and put new petrol in it.

Matlock Baths, Derbyshire?

Never tried one. Not sure how useful the audio is; all you are going to hear is someone really enjoying your bike. Alternatively, if you placed the unit under the seat, the sound of flatulence!

Happy Birthday Mike. I think you have to wait a few years for the telegram to arrive. A possible reason you haven't heard from her is she is having a bash with Phil the Greek today.

OK. The spark looks OK but worrying that the plug is dry. Take the plug out, push the kickstart. Can you hear the piston moving in the engine? Put your thumb over the plug hole and push the kickstart. Can you feel a fair amount of pressure when you use the kickstart? Put the fuel tap onto off, take the fuel pipe off the carb and, using a container to catch it, when you turn the fuel tap to reserve does fuel come out of the pipe? Reconnect the pipe and put the tap onto reserve. Put the plug back in - cleaned if required. Take off the petrol tank filler cap and leave off. Undo the airbox air pipe at the rear of the carb, with the choke off and the throttle fully open, spray a liberal amount of WD40 into the rear of the carb. Try and start the bike. Let me know what each result is.

Thanks.

Boy are you going to be in trouble..................................................... Very funny though!

The easiest thing it to tackle one thing at a time. If no one has messed with the valves, then they may be out but I doubt that this is the problem. 1). Check you have got a spark - Take out the plug, hold it against a good earth (the engine head?) and see if it sparks when you kick the bike over. be careful and hole the plug with an insulated pair of pliers. Take not of the spark colour. Make sure the plug is clean and is gapped correctly. 2) if you get a spark that is blue and "fat", pour a little petrol into the plug hole, replace the plug and HT cable and kick the bike over again. What happens? 3) After you have tried to start the bike, if it is still not starting, take out the plug, clean and dry it. Return the plug into the hole and try and start the bike again. After a few kicks remove the plug and see what it looks like. Is it wet? smell it, does it smell of fresh petrol? If you don't get a spark when you do number 1 then the issue is electrical and so you need to start checking that. A new plug and plug cap never hurt. Do this and report the findings back. As for the electric start, clean all of the connections from the battery, past the relay to the starter before you start to look to replace this. You can use a thick cable from the +ve of the battery directly to the positive side of the starter motor to test if the starter motor spins. Be careful here, a thin cable will get very hot and may hurt. You must have some degree of mechanical and electrical knowledge to do these tests safely. You need to decide if you can carry these out safely.

Take Airheads advice re the air filter. The choke is out for choke and in for no choke. They do often not stay out when worn but mist people get used to that. The WD40 when running is to check for any air leaks as it will alter the revs of the engine. It definitely sounds like a full strip for the carb and a clear out of the jets.