DirtyDT

Insurance is all about algorithms. Maturity, burn rate and risk. It doesn't make any real odds what your bike is worth. It is the amount of damage that you can do to other people. Hit a £250 grand car and cause permanent disability to its passengers and it will take a lot of £210 insurance premiums to get the money back. And you might not even re insure with that company ever again. No win no fee personal claims and insurance fraud are costing all of us a fortune, that is on top of genuine risk. That's the way it is.

Hi and welcome to the forum. The bar is the wrong place to post workshop questions. Look down the front page and post in the workshop section or the duel sport/offroad bikes section. Also check that the cables aren't creating the resistance - both electrical or clutch type cables - they would show as being "pulled" when the bars are turned.

Just keep an eye on that temp gauge. Hot day too. Think of that cold pint at the end of the road.

I just tend to see what is on fleabay TBH. I have just brought a kit for the SV - DID extreme 525 X ring kit. I would look at comparing the prices of a decent brand O ring against a different brand's X ring. I like X rings but on a DT I wouldn't mind either. Just keep away from the cheap ones, you will spend half your life adjusting your chain.

I have edited out the full number for security reasons. You don't want anyone stamping the full number to their field bike and claiming theirs is legit. .

I like DID or Regina.

Have a great one guys.

Yep What he said.

I might get a chance to pop up there for a couple of hours on Saturday. If I do I will probably take the TS and get some photos.

RD Rally 5th, 6th and 7th July 2013 (this weekend) Derby Rugby Club DE22 1EB

I am sure that our resident Insurance guru, Lee, will be along shortly and may have an answer for you. You may want to spend the time by saying hello in the new members section. The forum is not an "on demand" service and people get more replies when people take the time to do this.

Nothing to do with me but a RD250 project going cheap on fleabay LINKY

I forgot about that in the question. Oil in the water - What Cynic said.

A head gasket won't help. I would determine what oil it is first. 2 stokes must have oil in the bore. If you are going to take the head off you might want to take the barrel off and look into the crank area for case damage or seepage of gearbox oil between the case in that area. Other than that I would say it is a crank seal gone. That all assumes the the oil isn't 2 stoke, which would be fine.

Are you sure it's 4 stroke oil and not 2 stroke oil? At the moment the only 2 ways i can think of getting 4 stroke oil into the barrel is if it has seeped into the crank area and been sucked up into the top end. That or the right hand crank seal is shot and it is sucking oil from the gearbox into the same crank area.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I have moved your shaft drive question to the workshop area. You should get better replies there.

Moved to the workshop section.

I don't know the answer Kev so I didn't reply.

Thanks for all the additional information. I think I need to clarify my position with the bike. My mind runs projects and plans these out, that's how it works for me so I absorb as much as I can by whatever route I can. I am not really in the market for a show winner or a trick bike. My views is to run it looking like it could do with some cosmetic work but mechanically perfect. I am not fussed about running it as a 250 either, I brought it as a non runner and, as soon as I get a little time, it will be a runner. A lot of my questions are around identifying what is what. And I am learning. I don't want to order parts to find they don't fit so research is important to me. Identifying the forks means that I can look at fork seals and head bearings which will fit. The spannies will be a big investment. I don't want to buy a set that I can't use when I drop a 400 lump back into it. It may be a case of just getting some scummy ones cheap for a 250 to get it on its way. Knowing that the calipers are from the c/d model means I can get piston and seal kits for them and they will fit. I will look at the sump plug later to see if it is wired, that is quite a give away as to any race heritage. As for the doner bike and engine, I am already on the case. Maybe the plan is to run 2 of them, one a 400 and one a 250. Not sure yet but doner plans are already running. I do really appreciate the info from all but it is my first 400 rd. Cheers.

My idea is not to post workshop questions in the bar area.

Thanks Preload. Just of a matter of interest, what kind of money do the 2R9 carbs go for? I am confused about the pipes. I wanted to go for a set of 400's (maybe Allspeeds or Microns) but if the headers are different then I will struggle to get a set of 400's that I could use on the 250 engine. Is that what you are saying? Oh, by the way, it isn't a 2into 1, just that the end can is missing off the left one. Do you think that the whole front end is off the E model and would this affect any braking parts, repair kits etc that I would need to buy? It looks like more of a bitsa than I thought. Better wheels, front end (?) and carbs all from an E model, but a 250 engine.........................what was the bloke thinking?

Here are a few more pictures anyway. The bungies are just holding some plastic over the seat to save the foam from getting soaked and I have both carbs. They are 2R9 00's which are off the 400E model and quite rare I have been told.

I have seen the footrest brackets on fleabay, cheers. Is there anything you want a picture of in particular? There are some on the first page of this thread.

I thought Doris Day was a Bank Holiday.

But we are being told that. after the next few days, the forecast for the rest of July is better. I guess that means warm rain then!