DirtyDT

Clutch and side stand cut out switches are normally just an earth to stop the spark. The same as an engine kill switch. If the wire(s) are disconnected from the switches they won't kill the spark.

Carb first, as you stated. Get it set to standard settings. Fresh fuel. Does it rev high at standstill and then slowly drop revs until it dies unless you blip the throttle? If so then the left hand crank seal could be shot. The technique for testing this is the same as you used for testing any air leaks. Take off the left hand crankcase cover and, with the ending running, spray a little wd40 type fluid behind the spinning rotor. A change in engine speed will mean that the seal is shot.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I can't get the link to work on my phone.

Timber frames, lack of brick ties, Sewer or other mains inspection covers in the garden orany structural changes spring to mind. Brick ties you wont be able to judge. I would walk away from a timber framed house in the UK. Inspection covers means that if there are issues then people will have access to the house. Structural changes - have they been carried out correctly and has permission been granted, garage conversions to rooms etc can cause issues.

Moved.

I had to pop to Homebase this morning and picked up a cheap mini grinder while I was there. After some (lots) of gardening I took the grinder to the armature. Although it is still stuck fast it has exposed a hole big enough to possibly get a bearing puller into. I have filled the hole with penetrating fluid and I will leave that overnight. I managed to get the puller out and I can now see why it sheared. It was hollow in the middle.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Nice looking bike.

Well there has been no real movement on the YA-6 recently. I have been um'ing and ar'ing about working on the RD400. I have decided that since I have already started the YA I am going to finish it first. The plan is to work on the engine and frame as 2 separate semi projects. As I wait for parts for one, I can get on with bits on the other. I am still struggling to get the armature off. I tried to drill out the snapped puller but it is tough work. so I drilled a pilot hole in it with a view to tap it and fabricate a puller using a bolt in the new thread. This didn't quite go to plan as the tap snapped in the hole. I think the only way to get this off now is with an angle grinder. Once purchased I intend to wrap the case up with cloth and wood and then get to grips with it. More photos of the frame strip to follow.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I have a project YA-6. The most likely place for a decent exhaust is US eBay. They have parts on there that don't show up on the UK one at least and I am guessing that Aussie eBay is the same. Other than that you could get one manufactured or see how close a fit a YB100 one would be and if it can be modified. I am having the same trouble here finding a decent exhaust for my project.

I wondered where I left that. Can you post it back to me?

The easiest way to check the sensor is to short it out. If 2 wires, touch them together. If 1 wire, earth it. You can do the same with the fan by checking which wire is +ve and running a +ve and negative wire from the battery to see if it kicks in.

Are you talking bolts or brake pins here?

Not sure it would apply to one off's but a Fuel exhaust discount code is available to paid site members. Conditions may apply.

Full service history, Standard (aftermarket exhausts are good though). Evidence of when the belts were changed last.

Make sure you do this safely and are competent. Have you checked the fuses for the electric start? Take a jump lead and connect this to the +ve of the battery. Touch this against the +ve terminal of the starter motor. does the motor spin? If it does then it is the wiring or relay. The next things to check are the relay, the earths and the cables. Follow the power lead back to the relay. Clean all of the connections on the relay. Clean the connectors in the push button itself.

MOVED.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Start a new thread in the workshop section, this can be found towards the bottom of the first page. We can then get to grips with the problem.

The plan is to get the bike running well. Start doing the checks suggested and then come back and let us know what you did and what difference - if any - it made. Do the cheapest and easiest things first and we can go from there. Even if something you check doesn't make any difference to the running, it does eliminate this as an issue.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Please post workshop questions in the workshop area. You may also want to say hello and tell us a little about you in the new members section. Topic locked - wrong section.

We can only offer advice, It is up to you if you want to take it or not. There are a lot of 2 stroke lovers on the forum - that includes me and I have 3 at the moment - Down to you now. Diagnosing a fault over the internet is not the easiest of tasks, but stick with the plan and you will get there the cheapest way possible. You may even learn something on the way. You seem to have a coil fixation. They do break but, given the description you have told us, I would repeat the same advice.

A new thread has been started for technical help on this. It is in the duel sport area. Please feel free to welcome the new member using this thread but can you please post any technical suggestions in the new thread. Thanks.

If it was one problem I would say it is the carb main jet then. Edit - I removed the same post in the workshop.

2 strokes are pretty agricultural but there are somethings they do not like. Spraying the inside of the tank is not good. The tank needs to be really clean inside. I would take the tank off and the petcovk (fuel tap) and see what kind of condition they are in. Small bits of grime will block things really quickly. These WILL find there way into the carb. I would still take the carb off and check it for cleanliness, the float height and jets (size and how clean). Have a look at the fuel cap. Is the vent working properly? How does it idle?