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DirtyDT

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Everything posted by DirtyDT

  1. Thanks guys, so seals a nut, soak in diesel or carry on with the brute strength and ignorance. I think the first thing I am going to try is to cut a thread in the existing hole and try and use a bolt as puller. Most parts are available even if some I will need to wait for. I haven't been able to find a good exhaust - yet! I like buying parts, almost as good as fitting them. The plan is to keep it once finished.
  2. I love that. I almost brought one a couple of years ago.
  3. Cheers Drewps. I have a few doubles
  4. I think that is the way to go Paul. I have a slide hammer so just a case of getting something threaded into the hole. I could tap it. It is all one unit. It is a solid steel core which is on the end of the crank. Originally it had a threaded end (as per your picture) but even after I put a specially made puller on it, the puller just snapped in the hold so I cut the end off in frustration. Now
  5. I put 95 octane in all of my bikes. Nothing has dropped off yet.
  6. While I am at it I would still welcome ideas on finally getting that armature off please.
  7. More coming on this bike once RD-1 has been tinkered with. It is still insured, MOT'ed and taxed but the plan is to finally sort out the battery overcharging (possible 12v conversion, annual exhaust paint and general tidy.
  8. DirtyDT replied to kearnsy123's topic in Yamaha Workshop
    I like Rock Oil Guardian 4 stroke oil.
  9. Cheers Andrew. About £300 of parts sitting on the bench. Parts aren't too bad, Yambits sell loads of bits for it and the bike shares parts from many others so NOS parts are affordable. There was an oil leak somewhere so before I moved it into the workshop I checked the 2 stroke and gearbox levels. The gearbox seems over full and the 2 stroke tank may have been a little full. I can't find a leak yet. Possibly just overflows.
  10. OK people, The last bits about the workshop and then onto the 2 RD's. Stuff from the store put into the workshop. I still need to sort out the boxes. Nothing in the tool chests yet. Even with 4 bikes in it and stuff to be put away there is still plenty of room - maybe for another bike On to the project. RD400-1 in with lots of room to work. A few bits to get me going. There are another few bags somewhere but I can't find them at the moment.
  11. Hi and welcome to the forum
  12. Yeh, Kev doesn't have a BMi, he has a postcode.
  13. All good practice though Andrew.
  14. This seems to be happening more. In the old days you could squeeze the lever, untighten the nipple, squeeze and tighten the nipple a few times whilst keeping the reservoir topped up and the job would be a good 'un. Some people now push the brake fluid into the nipple and fill it the "opposite" way by using a large syringe (LINKY off fleabay). Sometimes you can get the fluid to go through by a set of rapid pumps on the lever. It seems that once it starts off, it is fine but it may take pumping it a few times.
  15. Money on it's way back to youu Steve. Please let me know when you get it. Cheers.
  16. DirtyDT replied to Preload's topic in The Bar
    Whats driving it? I don't really follow MotoGP but I would guess sponsorship is good providing your product is performing well. Is it the end of the current contract? Unfortunately I do know about OJEU and contracts. What a sham!!
  17. DirtyDT replied to Preload's topic in The Bar
    Guangzhou Diamond Tire Co., Ltd? ...................... er I didn't think so either.
  18. Good. A warm - and it is warm where I am today - welcome to the forum.
  19. It's not all bad being old.
  20. Do you want me to return your cash via Paypal Steve? This is the current situation reguarding shirts. Anyone not on the list below has withdrawn and has had their cash refunded. Please give me a shout if there are any errors. Andrewelvisfan - Shirt/Money at Squires/Cash to be returned Noise - Still in Drewpy - Still in Cynic - Still in Blackhat - Still in Foamy - Waiting for cash return confirmation
  21. Hi and welcome to the forum. My FZ8 is here
  22. Less of the "workers" John.
  23. That is a bit devious Andrew! I am good for the money anytime and it is £21 so an extra bag of crisps when you get to the bar. Fine with me and if you change your mind just PM me.
  24. PM recieved and one returned. I should ask what style of floor tile you would like as your refund? Would it be best if I returned all payments? Just let me know but be aware that if I do my stepkids may not eat for a month. No pressure but you know what to do if you have any kind of moral compass. It's bin day today so let me know asap as I might be able to retrieve a few scraps from it before the dustbin men collect it.
  25. These little strokers are easy to work on but you need to be systematic when they give you problems. Before you do anything you need to assure yourself that the carb is rebuilt properly and set to factory specs. Make sure the spark plug is the correct one and is gapped properly (always good to have a few set up). White smoke from a 2 stroke is quite normal but it will smell different if it is burning gearbox oil. So with the carb set and spark plugs at the ready you can check the next item; the airbox. I am assuming that the bike has the standard airbox and the filter has been cleaned/replaced and oiled with the correct oil? If not, read no further and get this sorted next. If all of the above is fine you can then move on to checking for air leaks. With the engine running you need to spray around several areas to see if air is being sucked in, the engine note/speed will change as you spray if you have a leak. Using something like WD 40, spray around any rubber part that connects the airbox to the engine so airbox to inlet tube, inlet tube to carb, carb to engine barrel. If when spraying the engine note changed then you will need to sort out where the leak is. The rubbers get hard with time and heat. Ok so we have the carb in spec, some spark plugs in spec, we know the air filter is clean and oiled and we know that there are no air leaks on the inlet side of the engine. Time to tackle the seals. Generally the left seal keeps out air and the right seal keeps out oil. They too get hard and stop doing their job over time and heat. Take off the left crankcase cover (left and right references are with you sitting on the bike ). With the cover off you will normally see the rotor. This will spin with the bike started so, being safe, start the bike. You should see the rotor spinning. Carefully spray some WD 40 behind the rotor whilst listening for a change in engine noise. If there is a change then this seal will need to be changed. That should keep you busy for a while but make sure you complete the steps because if you just throw the carb back together and it is out of spec or the plug you are using should be for a tractor you will never get the enormous happiness that is riding and smelling a 2 stroke. It is something to be savioured.