DirtyDT

Sounds like too much fuel. Is the needle valve closing correctly and the floats "floating" or sticking. Check the needle valve seating, change the needle valve if required. Check for a pin hole in the float and for free movement.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Very possible John but someone has messed with the tappets - which may show the same symptoms - so that is easy to correct.

Nationwide is a Building Society, not a bank Sort code - "SORT CODE 07-02-46 is a unique code assigned to NATIONWIDE BUILDING SOCIETY, Swindon, FLEX ACCOUNT 2007 PO BOX 8888, NATIONWIDE HOUSE, PIPERS WAY, WILTS, SN38 1NW, Phone: (8457) 302010, SWINDON. SORT CODE 07-02-46 is used for transferring money between NATIONWIDE BUILDING SOCIETY accounts." - LINKY Does he have a house number or name for Shore Road?

Important bits in red. On the left hand side (nearside) of the engine there will be 2 slotted caps on the crankcase. You need to unscrew the top one to see the timing marks for tappet adjustment, the lower one to turn the crank and look through the top hole until you see the marks. Remember to turn anticlockwise. Rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise to align the slit on the rotor with the stationary pointer on the crankcase cover. When the piston is Top Dead Center (TDC) Measure the valve clearance by using a feeler gauge. Exhaust tappet is the one to the front of the bike near the exhaust. Tappets (measured cold): IN 0.05 _ 0.09 mm NOTE Millimeters not inches so check your feelers EX 0.11 _ 0.15 mm NOTE Millimeters not inches so check your feelers Spark plug: NGK DR8EA 0.6 _ 0.7 mm Carburetor: Type Y24P I.D. mark4WP-10 Main jet (M.J) #102 Main air jet (M.A.J) ø1.3 Jet needle (J.N) 4C9A-3/5 Needle jet (N.J) 2.600 Cut away (C.A) 2.25 Pilot outlet (P.O) 0.8 Pilot jet (P.J) #38 Bypass 1 (B.P.1) 1.0 Pilot screw (P.S) 2 Valve seat size (V.S) ø2.0 Starter jet 1 (G.S.1) #60 Starter jet 2 (G.S.2) #64 Float height (F.H) 28.5 mm Engine idle speed1,250 to 1,350 r/min Ignition timing: Ignition timing (B.T.D.C.) 9 degrees at 1,300 r/min

It is easier on a small cc, single cylinder bike. That said, I would recommend putting petrol in it and riding it; It is much more fun.

Have a look at the following threads fella. I posted the specs and how to do tappets in the first linked thread below.

Ok. Just to check, did you try jumping it from a car battery? Ir looks like you will need to start checking everything for the correct specification. I would get the tappets set properly first and then try to start it and then time to look at the carb again.

Ok. At the same time can you take the spark plug out and check it is wet with fuel. If it is, leave it out to let the cylinder evaporate any fuel in it. After a while pour a teaspoon full of oil down the spark plug hole and turn the bike over with the plug still out for a second or two. Replace the plug and HT lead and then, without any throttle, try and start the bike again.

I just use "password" for all my accounts but don't tell anyone.

Have you tried the suggestions I posted? We need to eliminate things to get us to the issue. You need to tell us what you have tried from the list of suggestions and what happened when you tried them. It is best to work from the perspective that any check that is simple and free is best to do first but we need to to tick off what has been suggested and give us some feedback.

Not sure but that sounded a bit sarcastic - the guy has a SR and is trying to help. If the bike starts on a bump but not the button the extra suction from the engine may be greater sucking the fuel in to ignite. A more powerful battery test (car battery) may turn the bike over faster creating the same effect. Before you do anything else; Open the fuel cap and see if it starts with it open Check the fuel flow by taking the fuel hose off the carb to see if the fuel flows Try jumping it with a car battery Make sure that the tappets are set correctly. Next I would check the carb. - again if you had to.

If the coils are getting power and you have changed the coils. I think there is only 2 reasons why you can't get a spark. 1) there is still an earthing or safety switch working sucking power out of the coils 2) there is not enough juice going to the coils to get them to create the spark If it sparked and didn't run, then it could be timing but that doesn't seem to be the case. Are the coils earthed only to the frame or are they also wired on the earth side?

Running - can you turn the idle up to keep it running? Tappets -these need to be accurate with the right gaps. As said before - what happens when you push the start button? Has the bike ever run correctly? Has this just started?

Pictures are the key. Registration only tells us what year the bike was legally allowed to be ridden on a road. The model may be the year before (or earlier). Carb settings are one one of the key factors in making a 2 stroke reliable and fun to ride. They generally need to be cleaned if not ridden for a while and jetting and float height are key. Don't be temped to buy a jet kit (Keyster for example) unless you really have to.

It's a replacement for an old second hand set we brought him a while ago so he is Cosy Powell (that takes me back) and I am Gary Moore (on my Les Paul). We are not bad neighbours - really!!!! We went to look for a set of Pearl or Mapex drums but ended up with another Yamaha in the house.

I am not sure what the classic bike scene is like over there but in the UK there are lots of small engineering places that will fix or manufacture things for you. You are best learning about the bike basics for a 2 stroke and get onto ebay. The DT's are so simple you would be far better getting a manual and asking here - with some pictures - than getting a modern bike "Technician" to look at the DT. All they do nowadays is swap one new part for another and that is not the way for a classic. You won't find many new parts.

If that was for me Drewps, I was at home, tucked in with my better half, listening to the rain. I popped to Sheffield on Saturday to get a new drum kit for my son. Got him one of these.

Looks great (apart from the rim tape). I put a small Givi fairing on my FZ-N when I got it. It does help and quick and easy to fit. I haven't bothered with an exhaust change, It was on my list but to be honest I quite like the sound of it, quiet as it is, without it.

I thought that was you Tommy. There are a couple of small hotels, the closest just out of the gate, turn left, and about a mile down the road.Not sure about B&B's

Hi and welcome to the forum.

........................and the noise is coming from which part of the bike? Does it match the engine or road speed? Does it sound like something loose or something mechanically worn?

You need to say hello in the new member section. People tend to respond better to posters who do. As a 2 stroke you need 2 oils. (assuming everything is in place and working). 1) Motorcycle engine oil - this goes in the gearbox of the bike. Normally there is a cap to unscrew on the engine. Only use motorcycle oil (not car oil). You have the spec at 10/30. I like Guardian rock oil - others like other oil. This is like a car just keep it topped up to the correct level and change it once or twice a year. 2) 2 stroke oil - This oil is burnt with the petrol. Running a 2 stroke without this oil will kill it. Because it burns with the fuel it needs replenishing regularly. There will be a separate tank to put this oil in. I like Castrol Power 1 racing 2 stroke which is synthetic. These oils are not interchangeable. Some basic info. Never run the bike without 2 stroke oil. Never run the bike without the correct air filter in it (some need to be oiled). Check that the bike is running with the correct air/fuel mix - this is normally done by checking the spark plug. Check the site for info on "Plug chop".

Hi and welcome to the forum.