DirtyDT

rev the bike and see if the voltage drops.

Blimey DAS is around that from scratch. I think I paid £20 (to be honest I can't remember) but I did have to ride around the block twice. I am shocked at the cost.

As OG says. Could be a blocked breather (cap off) or heat evaporating the fuel in the carbs (check fuel pipe routing) or check for a blocked filter (especially inline ones).

I would always say - why not put two grand aside and spend two hundred into a full license? Much more choice for the same money. Trails are generally lower power so, in a lot of cases, there is no need to even restrict them.

Here is one with one careful owner HERE But still looks better than my TS250

No disrespect but most 125's of that vintage would have been badly looked after by "younger folk" with little cash. Go careful and view every bike. Look for damage. Most would also have had little maintenance and a lot are bodged, just to keep them running. Also factor it that knackered tyres, chain/sprockets, brake pads, exhaust, poweralves cost a few quid.

For me, an affordable classic. DT's are great but vary on what cc you go for. 175's are very popular (if you have a full license) and demand is high for all the old classics, for all mainstream manufacturers. I would say that you are best to look for one with a V5 and as complete as possible. Some parts are hard to find and a lot have been taken off road and abused. a good, straight frame is key and matching (or close) engine and frame numbers are sought after. You can change or replace anything except the frame (otherwise it is a different bike). Only look for a "rough" one if you have the cash, time, dedication and ability to work on it. Evilbay is a good place to price up bikes and parts but decide if you want an original or if you don't mind having non stock plastics etc on it. Write a list of what you want from it. Show winner, fun, longevity, building mechanical skills, to keep or not....... remember to factor in any tools, lubes, oils, paints etc you would need. Just keep away from Chinese ones.

Sort of. I am a Londoner and used to work out of Chesterfield but an mid middle lands at the moment. As for the 2 v 4 debate, it depends what you use them for. 2 stroke for the smell and ease of working, 4 for clean and most commuting.

Live - Loughborough Work - Nottingham

Hi and welcome. A good old XJ. Good bikes, those!

Hi and welcome from a few junctions down the M1. The dog doesn't look impressed but I like it

Buggered if I know!

anybody know the wheelbase measurement for a 1972 at1 enduro?? need it to see if a rear carrier will be big enough to transport, please? Wheelbase 50.6 in (1,290 mm) Check the right hand column Linky

indicators on left handside not working any ideas. tried bulbs ,flasher unit. Can anyone help, please? Switch contact for that side.

Good find 2 wheels. I had to push mine this afternoon. First cut of the year.

Don't fancy that much......................I know what I eat

Interesting reading LINKY

I can't find the 125 but on the 250 OG is right. If it is the same, look at items 12 and 13 (there are 2 of each) on this link HERE 13 is a nut to stop 12 moving so you release 13 and then adjust 12 until the gap between the bottom of the screw and the top of the tappets (1 & 2) is correct according to the manual. One tappet will be exhaust and one will be inlet. When the gaps (and they may be different) are correct you tighten down numbers 13 so 12 can not move. this MUST be done when the crank is in certain positions. You CANNOT do this at any point. Notice the Capitalised words. the gaps have to be correct when the tappets are at their widest and this will be marked somewhere on the engine. It is not difficult but getting this wrong can bend the tappets or cause other MAJOR damage to the engine. If in doubt, leave alone or get a mate who knows what they are doing to show you.

I would agree with that.

Is that a gasket you can change or a seal that you can't? Main dealer for a part you can change. Gungum and pack the gap(leave to dry before starting)if you cant change One on evilbay V cheap HERE

No sweat. Run a new bolt into the nut but do not overtighten to try and recover the nut thread or use a smaller gauge nut and bolt with a washer on each end. Do not run the bike without the tank firmly fixed. If it goes over the tank could come off, spilling fuel and maybe igniting from the exhaust. I wouldn't want a hot bike on me with the fuel glunking out over me!

damaged thread on the bolt. Can you use a spanner on the boltto turn it and at the same time put a flat screwdriver under the bolt head to lever up the bolt.

I haven't been to Cornwall for a while Merv but it was still MPH last time I was there That's the problem with Brussels and a continuing weak government in the uk (of all persuasions). No one tells us what goes on. Maybe they should ask us to vote on some REAL issues on 5th May

75? you must have some very steep hills where you live. Welcome to the forum.

12 volt 12 amps I think is the standard spec so the smallest 12v 12a you can find. If you look for gel filled ones you can fit these at an angle and they will not leak so gives you more options.