DirtyDT

Bike mechanics, as every other trade, come in various flavours. You obviously had a bad experience and to be honest that does seem to be the norm with a lot of them that are not specialists in something. Invest in a decent set of tools. Build them up slowly if you have to. My recommendation is the Halfords Professional range. Good value for money and look out for discounts each new year. Ask tools on birthdays and Christmas'. Invest in a manual and get known on a decent forum. Replacing chains and sprockets are something you are going to have to do a fair few times if you stick to biking so learn how to do it and you will know if you have done a good job or not. Most small general garages generally have more than their fair share of non qualified monkeys working in them so rather you tackle a job then one of them. Especially if they want to charge you good money. Being able to perform preventive maintenance is just one of the bonuses of learning mechanical skills. It also keeps you safer, saves you money and lets you identify a lot of problems with your next bike purchase. It also helps you confidently negotiate a reduction in the cost of buying another bike. With the electronics, most smaller places do not have the knowledge nor the equipment to test these and will just replace everything, at your cost, to fix it. Often a little internet searching will flag up a common fault with one part and this is always a good place to start. Other than that always replace to cheapest part first is the general rule. Good luck with the XT. They are a good bike.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the info and heads up gents.

They look the dogs. Great find!

Cheers Paul. I do understand that they come up "tighter". I was looking for a quality piston kit. Wemoto do them and I am not sure what condition an OEM one would be in TBH. Any advice on piston and rings manufacturers?

You will now be inundated with PM's asking if you want to sell it John. I am hoping the barrel will not need a bore or hone but I will have to see. Thinking of a Wiseco piston. Not sure because they are a lot of cash.

Twas just an example to say "look further afield". I have brought from all over the world. One 1 item from Canada so far has disappointed me. German stuff has always been very good - so far. I spent £100 yesterday on a NOS barrel for the TS from Germany. I just hope that that is as good as the rest of the stuff. Any stuff you buy unseen will be a gamble but there are some good bargains out there.

Great isn't it I know the big stuff, just the small stuff like.....did I order the 6 washers for the shocks or the fiber washers for the two 2 stoke banjos??? I know that I brought a NOS Barrel from German evilbay last night. Under £100 including delivery.

Make sure he doesn't creep up on you when you are shaving Paul.

As Airhead said. Where the clutch rod comes out of the crankcase by the engine side of the cable there should be a mark. Look where the cable joins the engine. The lever that end will be shaped with a little point and this should point to a mark on the crankcasing. Adjusting after this is either as Blackhats post or there should also be an adjuster in the cable at the engine end. this basically a threaded rod within the cable. It could be that the cable is a bad patten part and you will never get it adjusted correctly or that the clutch needs changing. This info is for the older SR's. I don't know what year yours is.

Hi and welcome Craig. We've all needed an anorak recently BH!!

He looks well dodgy to me.

I had a similar problem with the SV, I made up a bracket and brought a set of indicator connectors. Just connected the 2 together. This can then plug into the loom at the indicator plug and means that you dont mess with the original wiring. When you want to take them off, just unplug them and plug the originals in. The SV still has the bracket on as I haven't been arsed to put the normal indicators back on. With built in LED's they should just bullet connect together although you may need a ballast resister in each to get the flash rate right. Check out indicator connectors on ebay. LINKY Lots of different types. Just buy the type that suits your bike.

Hi Mate, Yep, I still have the Suzi and and still planning on getting it back on the road. I haven't done a lot with the bike and have been concentrating on getting parts to be honest. I now have permission from my lovely better half to put a bike only shed up on what is now the patio so that is STILL the next big purchase. Parts wise, I am still looking but I am running out of space. The shed is full and so is half of the dining room!! I have decided to rattle can the bike this time round. I brought a few tins of Hammerite smooth. I also picked up a couple of tins of Plasti-Kote BBQ for the NOS exhaust when I got dragged into Wilkos a few weeks ago. I have scotchbrite, wet and dry in abundance. What with the tack cloths and other bits I am hoping that the finish will be acceptable and failing this I will go for a powdercoat next time. I have stocked up on stainless bolts, nuts and washers of the Hex variety. Got a set of stainless x head stainless crankcase bolts from Mrmegaman. Major parts wise, the packages still keep on coming from around the world. I can't list all the new bits since I last posted on this thread but just picking a few bits out: I had brought a set of engine bearings and seals a while ago. Some quality patten and some OEM. Although the crank bearing set was advertised specifically for the TS, one of the bearings was not right. The original left hand bearing has an oil slinger on it. This throws 2 stroke oil onto a plate which feeds the oil into the bottom bearing to lube it. A new OEM bearing popped up on evilbay so I added that. All of the wiring was knackered so I have brought the 2 NOS parts a while ago. Unfortunately this also meant that the lefthand switch gear was no use either. There are a lot of patten TS250 lefthand switches advertised on evilbay but these do not have the correct connectors. The original TS one has 2 connector blocks. All of the ones that are original are stupid money but one came up on German evilbay for a lot of money but not the £100 that some people are asking. I got one of those. I do have a rear mudguard for the bike but this is quite crusty. No damage though!. I brought a white replacement patten part privately for the bike but it turned out that it was for the TS185 and although they look the same, they are not. The mounting holes are in different places. A NOS red "fender" came up on USA evilbay a few weeks ago so I brought that. It arrived this week. So the project is still moving forward. Shed and sun are required so I can get the spraying started and then the rebuild can start in earnest. At some stage the wheels will go off for new rims and spokes and the the forks will go off to be hard chromed - Thanks for the member here who PM'ed me a while ago with feedback of the company they used. I have my eye on a few bits at the moment and there are still a few bits I am desperate for and these may stop the project. I have sunk about £1500 into the project so far with possibly the same amount to go what with the wheels, tyres, forks etc but this was never going to be about the money or return. This model is quite rare and there are a lot less of them than the older banana exhaust type. So all that said it is still a lot of work in progress and I am still looking to ride some sort of 2 stroke to Squires this year even if it is not the TS.

German ebay. Even if they say they dont post to the UK. Use Google translater to ask via ebay messaging. I have got some great stuff from there. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-SR-125-Bremse-Bremszange-Bremssattel-Grimeca-/330718556113?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item4d005cafd1 http://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-SR-125-original-Bremse-Bremsanlage-vorne-/330655047366?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item4cfc939ec6 http://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-SR-125-Bremsanlage-vorne-vorn-Bremse-/320781058732?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item4ab00a82ac

Not in Eire but you could try these LINKY

There is still the play offs! Start tomorrow against Cardiff.

Well done on the pass.Good bikes those early CBR's.

Personally I would drill it out. The heat of drilling it and some plus gas may loosen it up enough to get the bolt extractor on it.

I think someone has just been saved from 12 inches of finest Oklahoma sausage!!

Be careful of asking for or posting anything that may be copywritten on the forum. The American Government seem to think they own the internet and I think they have created a new law, regardless of where you live in the world, that they expect you to abide by. If you don't they will come and get you by whatever means they want and you will end up in one of their camps without trial being rodgered by a fellow inmate. Don't worry if you live in the UK, they will just call Cameron and he will send you to them, no fuss!! Just search for "Stop Online Piracy Act" (SOPA) or "House Bill 3261".

Heat, plusgas and a stud extractor should do it. LINKY These have an opposite thread so turn anticlockwise. If the worst comes to the worst you may ned to drill the nipple. The good news is that it already has a centre hole. The heat of drilling often helps to losen the nipple as well. Just be careful because you will need to keep the caliper nipple thread intact. Lost of plusgas.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Were you talking about the bride there? A little careless I would suggest

Good to see you back (maybe). Nothing wrong with SV's. Mine is still going strong!!