If you look where the 2 sections of the switch assembly you can see where these part (once you get the screws out) join. You can normally gauge how much of the bolt will be left once you cut the head off by looking at the distance between the bottom of the bolt head and the where the 2 sections join.
Just working from the 5m6 number Nev. Someone in the past may have stamped the engine with a DT50 number in case they got stopped by the police.
I concur with the 3BN on the engine - 1988 DT125 (France).
I fully understand. When I was working on the TS I rode it around the garden once which was it's first ride since 1995. The first real ride was 12 miles to to MOT station a couple of days later.
True............................ It needs a darn good thrashing. But it shouldn't be leaking there so check for a leak, pinch up the header/exhaust connector.
Dependant on the type. The easiest way is to connect them straight to the battery. Red to the +ve and black to the -ve. The disadvantage is that anyone can come along and turn them on when the ignition is off. Next simplest is to wire them to a lighting circuit. This should be done via a relay so check if the grips have a relay included. Disadvantage is that they will only work with the lights on. Last is to a part of the ignition. This needs a relay too but means that they will only work when the ignition is on and are not lights dependant. Disadvantage is that this is a little harder than the first 2 options.
There is a link in my signature to take you to the intro section for a "proper" hello if you feel the need. It should help with replies.
So am I. They can kill you and hurt a lot when they hit you (or you hit them). The day I stop worrying about cars is the day I give up riding. The problem is, when riding is in your blood, it never goes away.
Hi and welcome.
Safe riding is more about experience, attitude, maturity, roadcraft, awareness and the like than having a disk brake or better lights.
My mum said similar things when I was looking at buying my first bike.