DirtyDT

The more miles ridden, the more risk of a traffic accident. Mileage is on every MOT and written in most service books so easy to verify. I always go high to never have to worry about it. It might add 50p to my £100 fully comp policy.

No. Never owned one.

Cheers Blackhat. The R/H seal is an engine split, which is a pain but the bearing is lubed by the gearbox oil while the L/H bearing is lubed by the 2 stroke oil. Genius piece of engineering. . Self tappers are the de facto method but all I did with this one was to check how loose it was by using a screwdriver hit with a hammer. It was rock hard but loose so I could easily price it out with the point of an electrical tester, making sure not to damage the ali surrounding it. Used a block of wood to tap the new one in after a good clean. It is a s**t or bust job. once you have started on it, it has to come out. The biggest worry is that someone used a liquid sealant of some type the last time it was done as this can make an easy job, painful. The bike has not really been used due to running like a pig. The engine in it is a spare and I have not rebuilt it. The original engine is stripped ready for a rebuild. This has meant that the bike has not really been used. It came off the road in 1995 and sat in a blokes garage until I brought it a couple of years ago. It has done under 300 miles since then; MOT station and back; Squires and back and: work and back once. So since 1995 to today the total is under 300 miles ridden. I will use it more now it seems to be running better. Still a little tidying to do. I just need to see if my addition of a regulator has cured the battery and bulb blowing issues, replace a few bulbs and respray the exhaust and it should be ready to go. If this is the case it means I can rebuild the original engine at leisure and start to strip the YA6 ready for this next years Squires.

This thread has been quiet for too long. Nothing so far this year. John - I know you said you can't make it but it might be the last year before Salmond stops you from heading South and the year after you may have to have German as a first language and Deutschmarks as money. They don't do currency exchange there. Let have another roll call! Almost definite or maybe's would do. DDT

Thin Lizzy (whiskey in the jar) Free (alright now) Manfred Man Boney M Mamas & Papas Jim Morrison (Doors) Hot Chocolate The Kinks Rolling Stones Jimi Hendrix Hermans hermits And a little Dolly Parton Shaggie Bon Jovi Madness Simon and gerf, garfin, the other bloke Don Mclean Dire Straits Goldern Earring Buddy Holly UB40 Any Stax stuff Some Northern Soul

Hi and welcome to the forum. I can't help with the question. I can't actually recall seeing an AG either! 2 strokes .

Instead of WD40, invest in some Plusgas. miles better. A few of will be hitting Squires later on in the year. Here is the thread for this coming year and if you use the search function you can see some of the previous years trips. If you are "up and running" maybe make the trip. I do have to warn you that most of us that go are getting on a bit. Even if you can't make the rally, it may be a place to ride to, to meet up with some fellow bikers and have a brew.

...enjoy bike cleaning...? that will soon wear off. Tap position - thats all right.. Are you on a CBT? location? All good info.

Welcome. We met in a previous thread but good luck with the SR and we love pictures here.

You can break the chain or take off the rear wheel, with a tin of plusgas and a rag, spray the chain and wipe moving the chain links up and down until they are all free. Clean the chain off of Plusgas and lube and chain the chain as soon as possible. Some people would put the chain in an oil bath but the Plusgas way is quickest.

There were major changes in '99 on that model. Not sure if the headlight changed, if at all.

Does the chain have a split link?

The part looks the same and the ad says off a 2000 model. Is this the same year as yours? I would look for one where the advert has more pictures. All are going to have some wear but it is surprising the amount of junk that people on ebay sell. The question about fitting is a difficult one. How much use of a spanner do you have (hence the intro)? The glass and surround are normally held in with a philips bolt or two, The fitting to the frame and indicators are a simple spanner job. The hardest part will be to unplug all of the electrics to get the old one out and new one in. I would get the glass and rim parts off. See what needs to be unplugged, check what holes each wire is fed through, a spray with some plus gas, pull each connector apart that you have to one by one and as you do each one put a piece of masking tape around both wires and mark them. Something as simple as 1, 2, 3 etc so when you go to plug them back in you just match the numbers up. It is normally tight with wires so have a good look before you disturb the wiring and a top tip is always take plenty of photos at each stage. While you are at it, a little wet and dry around each connecter should clear any muck before you reconnect the wires. A little luck and no issues - less than 1 hour to do.

Hi. Welcome to the forum. You may want to post a "hello" in the new members section telling us a little about you. People tend to get better replies to their posts if they do. Now to the questions; Q) I noticed the fuel reserve on the bike was 'on'. Should this be switched to 'off'? I assume so but want to check. What happens if you ride with the reserve on? The tank is about 3/4 full at the moment. A) Does the tap have 3 positions - off, on, reserve)? The tap should be on, "on" and as the fuel level goes down the bike will splutter and eventually stop. Then switch to reserve to get you to the nearest petrol station, remembering to turn the tap back to the on position when full. If you ride on reserve and run out of fuel, you are stuck! Switch to off when you park up. Experienced riders can tell by a bike spluttering when to switch to reserve without pulling over. Q) Another thing. The bike has a crack on the front around where the front head light is. It's not a real problem just cosmetic, but is it possible to buy a new piece for this, I would like to if possible? A) providing it is not in the glass, then it should still be legal. That said, most of the wiring connections are behind the headlight so any water ingress will eventually damage these and then you will have gremlins. The best place to get a replacement is off ebay. These are still popular bikes and there are lots around. Good luck.

I don't think there is a regulator. It might be worth looking to retro fit one. Before you do anything get a multimeter on the headlight circuit and see what volts are going to the headlight bulb at various revs. Do the same for the battery. Is it 6v?

Err.....................................collect them. I don't know to be honest, part of the National Trust land down the road. Really happy with the way she went. Just seems a little short of fuel at the top end. 150 MJ in it She was happy to redline out of top gear and push to 60 - 70 MPH indicated.

Took the TS out for it's first run with the new crank seal. Some side roads, a few twisties and a little duel carriageway and it runs a million times better. I may go one size up on the main jet. Here it is at Nanpantan.

Take it to your nearest key cutters. Timpsons did a few for me a while ago and they all fitted. LINKY

That pad looks a little naughty.

I would agree with Airhead,

If the crank is bad then I would leave it alone. a second hand engine will be a few hundred quid. It might be worth £200/£250 if you know someone who can fit a new engine in it. How sure is he that the crank has gone?

I was surprised just how clean the whole plate and coils were.

DID - good make, X ring - good spec. £33 - great price.

The job is not too difficult but before you do this, have you tried cleaning and lubing the chain? What may make the job a little expensive is any tools that you may need to buy. These, obviously, can be reused for your next maintenance job. For a chain and sprocket change you will need a selection of sockets, spanners maybe the odd screwdriver, allen keys(??), something to hold the front sprocket still while you undo the bolt(s) & hammer but you need to check first what kind of chain you have because you may also need a chain splitter. Has the YBR got a center stand because the rear wheel needs to be removed. The first thing to check your chain and see if you have a split link. This is a link in the chain that can eaily be removed without a chain splitter. If you have one of those, a center stand and someone to hold the bike and press the rear brake then a set of standard tools are all you are going to need. Don't buy cheap tools, they are a waste of money. The Halfords professional range of tools are a good blend of quality and price.