DirtyDT

Pat. Please bring the sun back with you.

A Triumph shot past me when I was waiting. few minutes later he came back to see if he could help. Had a quick chat but incase he reads this, cheers. Can't fault Carole Nash recovery. The wheel is off and booked in tomorrow for a new tube and rim tape. The TS waiting for recovery.

If it starts on the kickstart, spins the starter motor and the splines are ok I don't think it will be anything simple. I would think that a gear in the engine that should make the starter spin the engine has lost a tooth or two. If it spins when the starter motor is on the bike then it shouldn't be the starter isn't performing under load.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

A nice day to take the TS out, I thought. About 3 miles into the ride the rear tube has popped and I am waiting for recovery! Just at the start of the country lanes as well. Felt it pop and the rear went wobbly but no dramas. What a pain.

I see you are on the charm offensive again Foamy Sent you a PM about one for me. Cheers.

Yep, sold pressed steel. The dirt is my very own part of Milwaukee, off the bike. The closest I have actually been to Milwaukee is Minneapolis.

My mistake, I didn't read the work "hard" in your title. Your idea makes perfect sense. If you tack weld on the bike to guarantee the fit, make sure that you isolate the main parts of the electrics.

Cheers Dave. I am watching your AT1 project with great interest too.

My question would be Why? If you are going to do it, I would go flat as it doesn't warrant the extra strength a tube would give you and be easier to mount.

Very good to ride for a '70's single 250. I have upped the MJ to 200 -may go higher. Very warm here in the Middle-lands. So warm I have been doing this today:

L/H crank seal shot gives this type of reving issues. I would doubt it had a new crankshaft as this would be mighty expensive. Crank seal symptoms - Revs OK when cold but when it is warm it starts to rev high and doesn't come back to tickover quickly. Slowly lowers the revs but will cut out. If you rev it. It sticks at high revs, which can be embarrassing at lights.

Seeing that the weather was the best it has been this year I decided that I would uncover the YA-6 project and take another look. One thing lead to another, as they do, and before I realised I had a few tools out. Here is how it looks at the moment. Excuse the garden but we are still coming out of winter. And compared with the TS for size

It could be that you are not being firm enough with the gear lever. Make sure the oil in the gearbox is clean and that the chain is also tensioned correctly.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Great job. Hopefully we can get a picture of the 2 TS's together at the F1se weekend. There is some chrome on fleabay for yours at the moment but all highly priced. I need to take mine for a spin. Only about 15 miles on the new L/H seal but I have rejetted the carb and had the exhaust off for a repaint since then.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

True Mike but just imagine a non biking day when everyone drives one of these to work like they were on the dodgems. Oh joy.

Hi and welcome to the forum Helen.

LINKY

LINKY

Don't know the answer but on the SV the low fuel light flashes with about 30 miles left and then stays on with about 10 miles left. Averages about 60 to the gallon but only has 2 cylinders.

Friday 5th is good for me. John - are you planning on riding past me still or meet there? Paul - see you there. Unless I pass you on the "screaming" TS. I had better take it for a spin as I haven't ridden it since I changed the jets and it may run like a pile of poo, that said it would still be better than how it went last year ha ha ha.

All diagnosis needs to be carried out when the bike has cut out. Once the bike has stopped 1 take of the fuel cap and try and start it 2 take out the plug - is it wet with fuel. What colour is it 3 with the plug out and attached to the HT lead, does it spark It is always going to be a process of elimination. Changing the plug and taking of the carb and fully cleaning it will never hurt. You need to determine what is working and what isn't when the bike doesn't want to run. This can't be carried out when the bike is running normally. 2 strokes are simple machines. A little fuel, air, compression and spark at the right time is all they need. Eliminate the easy things first. It could stop because a bit of grit is blocking a jet at times. It could be that there is a loose connection that fails when you go over a bump or turn the steering a certain way. It couple be that the carb float is incorrectly set so ragging it at full throttle empties the carb bowel ( which will then refill over time). It could be that running it at full throttle overheats the piston and this tightens in the cylinder (pinching). Intermittent faults are often a pain to diagnose so elimination and then replacing the cheapest parts is often the best way to go. Do you run it on good quality 2 stroke oil as it is a tiny piston and the engine has to do a lot of work.

When it stops have you pulled the plug to see if it is still sparking? If it is then it may be fuel related. The carb may be getting fuel but is the cylinder? Clean the carb out. When it stops try taking the fuel cap off and trying to start it. Check the piston for signs of pinching - I am guessing there is 2 stroke in the bike. Also don't forget to say hello in the newbie section.