DirtyDT

Started to put a few reference pictures up on my project gallery LINKY

Same as Drewpy said. Washing up liquid in the water for the wet and dry. Never sprayed over chrome but normally just Hammerite smooth straight to metal spray.

Love the urban colours on the 'blades. Great bikes too!

I doubt it. Often inhibitor switches in the kickstand or clutch fail and the bike won't start but if it starts on the kick then this won't be the case. The same as the kill switch with earths out the coil. It is somewhere between the starter motor and the mechanism that turns the engine over.

I haven't had a drink since the first night of Squires last year, so about 7 Months. I could have done with a burger van in the lay-by though - cholesterol is one of my five a day!!

Not off work but I did some CAD work at home this morning so I was going in late. It was the tube that was fitted when I had the wheels rebuilt and that was just before Squires last year. Less than 300 miles on the tyre. When I got hme I tried a footpump on it and it was holding air so I guess it may be the valve on the tube. I will keep a close eye on what everything looks like when the tube gets replaced tomorrow. Getting new rim tape as well so I will see if there are any spoke nipples that look dodgy in the rim.

Rims/spokes Once they have corroded then the cheap option is paint the spokes. Chrome rims can be re-chromed providing they are still serviceable, round and not too battered. The best way is to get them re rimmed and spoked. I tend to go for stainless (for both) as this keeps its colour and shine for a long while. Caliper Autosol if not too bad or rubbed down and painted. Swingarm Off the bike strip and repaint. Using an anticorosion spray prolongs their looks (ATF or the likes). Never use a wire brush or wire wool on Aluminum. You will end up with small particles of steel wire embedded in the softer ali and this rusts leaving a horrible mottled effect. As much as a pain, it is always better to take the parts off and do them properly.

Hi Lee, I know that insurance is a complicated business but it may help some if you could give a brief overview of some of the types of policies you do and any benefits. For example; do you do multiple bike policies? Do your classic policies come with extras like recovery (just been recovered on one of my bikes)? do you do insurance on frame numbers for all of us working on imported, non UK registered, bikes? Information like that would be of interest to me, at least.

Excellent. Will do. Good to have you aboard.

Pat. Please bring the sun back with you.

A Triumph shot past me when I was waiting. few minutes later he came back to see if he could help. Had a quick chat but incase he reads this, cheers. Can't fault Carole Nash recovery. The wheel is off and booked in tomorrow for a new tube and rim tape. The TS waiting for recovery.

If it starts on the kickstart, spins the starter motor and the splines are ok I don't think it will be anything simple. I would think that a gear in the engine that should make the starter spin the engine has lost a tooth or two. If it spins when the starter motor is on the bike then it shouldn't be the starter isn't performing under load.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

A nice day to take the TS out, I thought. About 3 miles into the ride the rear tube has popped and I am waiting for recovery! Just at the start of the country lanes as well. Felt it pop and the rear went wobbly but no dramas. What a pain.

I see you are on the charm offensive again Foamy Sent you a PM about one for me. Cheers.

Yep, sold pressed steel. The dirt is my very own part of Milwaukee, off the bike. The closest I have actually been to Milwaukee is Minneapolis.

My mistake, I didn't read the work "hard" in your title. Your idea makes perfect sense. If you tack weld on the bike to guarantee the fit, make sure that you isolate the main parts of the electrics.

Cheers Dave. I am watching your AT1 project with great interest too.

My question would be Why? If you are going to do it, I would go flat as it doesn't warrant the extra strength a tube would give you and be easier to mount.

Very good to ride for a '70's single 250. I have upped the MJ to 200 -may go higher. Very warm here in the Middle-lands. So warm I have been doing this today:

L/H crank seal shot gives this type of reving issues. I would doubt it had a new crankshaft as this would be mighty expensive. Crank seal symptoms - Revs OK when cold but when it is warm it starts to rev high and doesn't come back to tickover quickly. Slowly lowers the revs but will cut out. If you rev it. It sticks at high revs, which can be embarrassing at lights.

Seeing that the weather was the best it has been this year I decided that I would uncover the YA-6 project and take another look. One thing lead to another, as they do, and before I realised I had a few tools out. Here is how it looks at the moment. Excuse the garden but we are still coming out of winter. And compared with the TS for size

It could be that you are not being firm enough with the gear lever. Make sure the oil in the gearbox is clean and that the chain is also tensioned correctly.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Great job. Hopefully we can get a picture of the 2 TS's together at the F1se weekend. There is some chrome on fleabay for yours at the moment but all highly priced. I need to take mine for a spin. Only about 15 miles on the new L/H seal but I have rejetted the carb and had the exhaust off for a repaint since then.