DirtyDT

Big bore - looks like a ttr one fits LINKY You want to get as much air and fuel into it as you can. Weight is key - even take the shocks off and use straight bars to hold it. Exhaust - header only slice Gearing - You need to compromise between acceleration and terminal speed. No good getting to 70 quickly to find everything going past you at the 2 mile mark. There are plenty of gearing calculators online.

Hack off the exhaust Gear up for the kind of track you are racing on. Cut off everything you don't need Lose the airbox Fit a big bore kit (170cc??) Look at fitting something like a power commander Or Fit a R1 engine to it.

Page 64 of the manual shows you what do do for the points. To get a better understanding take a look at some you tube videos on 2 stroke point adjusting. The manual should then give you the specs and the you tube video should show you what things look like in greater detail. Something like this to start

Make checking the pump one of the things to do when getting the bike up and running. I wouldn't premix unless I didn't have a pump. You need to make a list of what you are going to check to get the bike running. I know that Sacha pointed you to a thread on the points in the other thread you posted. It can get frustrating and that is why it needs to be done in a methodical way.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Oil to gas ratio? isn't the oil pump working as that is the most effective way of controlling the mix.

Just wanted to say to people: "don't get your old jar of evo-stick out to to this, unless you know what you are doing"

That is interesting Jimmy. Was it the '59 Triumph as vehicles manufactured before 1960 (or thereabouts) don't need an MOT anymore. The current V55/5 still asks for an MOT (if applicable).

Just a note to say that people should be careful of using certain paints, glues, solvents etc on helmets as some will react to chemicals and it will ruin the integrity of the helmet. You may not find this out until the helmet is subject to the stress of an accident.

There are 3 choices. 1) hope the frame has been allocated a reg number in the UK at some time. Email this guy, who is not part of this site [email protected] See if he is still offering the vin to reg service. You will need to pay for this even if there is no information on the DVLA database. If a reg number has been allocated then apply for a replacement V5 as the new owner. 2) get an age related plate Get the bike up and running. MOT it on the frame number Insure it on the frame number Get a dating certificate from Paul Dawkins from this site (payment required). I would check with Paul before going this route as to what he would require to issue a dating certificate. An import form showing where the bike came from and that the import duty has been paid, if appropriate. Request a V55/5 from the DLVA online. Fill in the form and take the relevant documents to your nearest licensing center or apply online (a fee is payable and there is a cost for the road tax). The bike may need to be inspected at this point. 3) get a Q plate Same as above but no dating letter of it the bike has been made of a lot of replacement parts. A matching (or close) engine number would help you to get an age related plate. You say that you contacted Yamaha. Did you call them or email them? If you email you get very little back (in my experience), if you call them they are generally very helpful. You need to identify where the frame came from if it was imported.

Well done Bippo.

Contact Paul Dawkins off this site to see what he might be able to do to help. You can get details of previous registrations from the VIN - use search on the site. You can contact Yamaha UK and talk to their customer service and they will be able to verbally age the bike and say what market (Country) it is from over the phone. If the bike has not been registered in the UK you need to hope that it is a European import or you will need to pay import duty on it. This should do for a start.

Normal 95 for me, including the SV. Tried the "premium", couldn't tell the difference to be honest. I guess it's like saying "what blend of whiskey do you like the most"? when you really want a single malt. They are so blended with other rubbish I don't think it makes a difference. If you had an old 4 stroke with non hardened tappets, it may be worth it.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Isn't it what Spanish people do over nibbles?......................................................Tapas-talk!!

Looking like a very good project. I like pictures.

True Ken. I use IP Board communities app for the iphone but I don't think it is downloadable anymore.

I have sent a message to Alex and I am sure he will reply as soon as possible.

Different colours = different grades. Info here but use fleabay when you buy. LINKY

Scotchbrite pads are good to rub things down with too. Not the washing up type. Check out flebay for auto paint scotchbrite. I also use tack cloths for wiping down before paint. Not too expensive. Fleabay again.

Got the tyre done today. When Tim the tyre guy took off the tyre, instead of rim tape, there was just some cut gaffa tape behind the nipples!! Re inflated the tube and there seemed to be a problem with the valve as the tube inflated slowly but OK. I think the valve must let go yesterday. New rim tape and tube in so hopefully it will stay dry tomorrow for a 21 mile each way commute on it. Bring on the summer.

They like cheap manufacturing costs. You could ask; why do they make cross head screws out of metal as soft as cheese while you're at it.

Popped in to MTS today to get the TS wheel re-tubed - here is my review. I have used this guy quite a few times. Excellent service and reasonably priced. What impresses me is that he checks everything as he goes and works very clean, fastidious some would say. Knowledgeable on tyres - I think he is an ex racer - and will happily advise.. Standard stuff; he can normally get any tyre he doesn't have in stock in within 24 hours and carries a good stock of tyres in various sizes anyway. Fits loose and on the bike and often a free coffee gets thrown in too. Takes cash, debt and credit cards (credit cards only have a small premium payment for handing). He does MOT's brakes and chains but I have never used any of those services. He does get very busy at times and I have never been there when I was the only customer. Burger van nearby. I would recommend him. Worth a call if you are local. His website is here LINKY

Yep. Here is the stainless rim and stainless spokes after a simple wipe.

Not sure to be honest. It will only ever be as good as its worst part. Paint and a few nos parts are certain. I can get a new pattern seat for it and the hardest parts are the tank and exhaust. There is a tank on fleabag USA selling as new but it seems to have already been sealed. Can't find a decent exhaust for sale at the moment and the one on it needs a repair. I was toying with seeing what the cost would be to fabricate a new one or see if a yb100/125 one fitted. I will clean up the wheels but I am leaning to getting them redone in stainless.

Hammerite over the cleaned parts, tis great stuff. A new rim and spokes would be about £200 to £250 a wheel in stainless, plus the tyre. One of my rears is off at the moment, once I have collected it from the tyre place I will pop up a picture.