DirtyDT

You made me shoot off to fleabay to have a look at those. Halfrauds ones are £25. You made me loose my fleabay place now . I was looking at Frogeye Sprints.

Bi metal is 2 different metals, normally in a coil that control something. The metals expand differently at temperature and the coiling/uncoiling of the strip is used for control. Use to be used in carbs to operate the choke by using the water heat as the first auto choke. I think that some old air cooled beetles and Porche's use a similar method for air diversion, via flaps, for when the engine is cold or hot. In old instruments it can control the temperature gauge (there will be a thin tube with water in it from the engine) or stabilise the fuel gauge (in old cars the fuel gauge goes up and down each time you turn a corner and the idea was to minimise this - didn't work very well.

There have been a lot of older bike strip threads started recently so I thought I would post about the old skool armature removal. The armature is a wire coil that forms part of the generator/starter. The part is generally held in place as a press fit on the end of the crankshaft and has a woodruff key to stop it spinning. A bolt may or may not hold this is place but the armature will be a very tight fit and will not just pull off. Yamaha have a special tool to remove them however, they do seem to be scarce (unless people know better?). The only one I can see for sale at the moment is here LINKY This is for a couple of specific models and I am not sure how universal they are. Without the special tool, it seems that it is not too difficult to manufacture one. The problem is that you will need to use precise materials. You may get away with a bolt and a cut down drill shaft provided they are glued, welded, or otherwise fixed together. Otherwise you will lose the cut down drill inside the armature itself. The important part Looking at the YA earlier, it seems that the most important part is to make sure that the bolt you use is of the correct material and of good quality. The armature has a thread that is used to tighten the removal tool. much this up and you may never get the armature off without breaking it. The YA armature has a standard M8 thread. I took a few M8 bolts to mine this evening, many I could wobble into the threaded hole. Only 2 actually tightened up. The best one was one that came with an ABBA stand accessory. All fitted the same nut so there are some huge quality issues with some bolts. My armature is still on the bike. I ordered a blind bearing puller earlier and will see if the 8mm thread off one of the collets is up to the job. I intend to pull mine off. Oh, one last thing, don't drop it when it pops off.

I looked a while ago at some BSA'a B40/B50's I think. I would have to invest in some A/F/Whitworth/Imperial spanners and sockets as well. Maybe a couple of imperial screwdrivers . Haven't had a chance to go to Aldi today so it will be later in the week I think.

I'd agree with Slice. Welcome Matt. Can't help with the problem though.

Fundamentally correct. You may have an air leak. When did you last change/clean/oil (if appropriate) the air filter?

Keep the bike on the main stand so that the rear wheel is clear of the floor. With one hand, move the rear wheel a little, with the other push or pull the gear lever. It should engage. Do this with the engine off (obviously). Remember to return the bike to neutral before leaving it. Easier with the plugs removed once in gear.

Cheers guys. I will swing past aldi on the way home. Lets home they have some in. I popped in there a few weeks ago after getting the heads up that they had some biking gear. Brought a cheap bike lock and a set of taps & dies. Should have looked closer at the t&d's as some are imperial sizes, live and learn. Used one of the metric ones the other day and it was very good.

Open faced, flip or standard? I like AGV helmets K4 or S4 worth a look.

Looks like it could be a good project. Keep the updates and pictures coming.

You need a nut in the slot in the second picture. Either cut or grind a small amount of the bolt. Put a nut on the bolt first so when you unwind it, it cleans out the thread. Or you could pack the top with a couple of washers.

Cheers guys. Looks like Adi are winning. I hope these are in stock as I don't often go to Aldi's. Are these mains ones?

Cheers Drewps. I might pop into Aldi on the way home tomorrow. Anyone else?? Thanks.

I only brought one thing from them. A pair of RST Rift trousers. They only lasted 3 months before they started to fall apart. Called them and they just kept fobbing me off. Couldn't be ar5ed to take things further but would never use them again.

As per the question really. I would like opinions on whether it must be a Dremel or is there something as good (or better)? While I am at it, do all of these things share the same shaft size? I know I want a mains one, not a rechargeable. Main uses, I think, will be: Case polishing Odd bolt cutting - both slot and head removal Can't think of anything else at the mo. Thanks.

Excellent. It is a great feeling.

I'll just get my crystal ball out.............................................. A picture or the first part of the frame number would help.

Hi and welcome to the forum Steve, When you are ready start a new thread in the projects section. We like pictures here. Great intro too.

This is the kind of thing that I would take to a garage. Especially as it is a modern bike. If the lock comes on when you are riding, or something jams, you will be in a world of not very nice stuff. This kind of ignition lock will have security screws holding the lock on and these are a pain to remove. Also I would guess that the key has a passive transmitter in it which matches with the ignition to deactivate any immobiliser. Mess this up and it will cost a fortune. I messed one up on a Jeep Grand Cherokee about 15 years ago and it cost £400 to fix, then.

Happy Birthday mate. Thanks for the phone call. I will try the method and let you know what happens.

Hi Paul, I did this with the L/H one that wouldn't budge. Drilled the head off fine. That allowed me to remove the case cover. Heat gun and plusgas on the remaining stud. Put a stud remover on it and the cheese bolt just sheared. Left about 10mm proud of the case so if I cant get anything on this, I will cut it flush and drill it out. Just thinking, it must be your Birthday soon mate!

I have just been looking at the YA-6 engine. The L/H cover came off with only one stuck screw (still in the case) and even with heat, plusgas and a stud remover it just sheared down to a small stud. The R/H is going to be harder, one screw already looks like it is a rivet, and I haven't started on it yet. Got a couple moving but not looking good. I think there is going to be a lot of drilling out and re-threading. On a plus side, the points cam and generator came out quite easily.

Ha ha. I don't keep fish. I would rather see a fish battered, keeping a portion of chips and a wally (or 2) company. It is a right PITA when you drop the battery into a battery box before you can connect the bolts only to find that they need an extra 2mm. A piece of cable sleeving works for me.

Never heard of this brand. The terminals are normally a hollow cube with holes in the side and top. The nut fits in the cube (to make it captive) and the bolt is then thread through the power lead and tightened into captive nut. Some different brands have the "cubes" loose and the cubes need to be fitted first. Are you confident you have brought the correct battery? A picture would make a difference. A battery I fitted recently had the battery bolts a fraction too short to engage the captive nuts and I had to pack the nuts underneath with a little plastic.

Well done on the MOT.