DirtyDT

Looks like it could be a good project. Keep the updates and pictures coming.

You need a nut in the slot in the second picture. Either cut or grind a small amount of the bolt. Put a nut on the bolt first so when you unwind it, it cleans out the thread. Or you could pack the top with a couple of washers.

Cheers guys. Looks like Adi are winning. I hope these are in stock as I don't often go to Aldi's. Are these mains ones?

Cheers Drewps. I might pop into Aldi on the way home tomorrow. Anyone else?? Thanks.

I only brought one thing from them. A pair of RST Rift trousers. They only lasted 3 months before they started to fall apart. Called them and they just kept fobbing me off. Couldn't be ar5ed to take things further but would never use them again.

As per the question really. I would like opinions on whether it must be a Dremel or is there something as good (or better)? While I am at it, do all of these things share the same shaft size? I know I want a mains one, not a rechargeable. Main uses, I think, will be: Case polishing Odd bolt cutting - both slot and head removal Can't think of anything else at the mo. Thanks.

Excellent. It is a great feeling.

I'll just get my crystal ball out.............................................. A picture or the first part of the frame number would help.

Hi and welcome to the forum Steve, When you are ready start a new thread in the projects section. We like pictures here. Great intro too.

This is the kind of thing that I would take to a garage. Especially as it is a modern bike. If the lock comes on when you are riding, or something jams, you will be in a world of not very nice stuff. This kind of ignition lock will have security screws holding the lock on and these are a pain to remove. Also I would guess that the key has a passive transmitter in it which matches with the ignition to deactivate any immobiliser. Mess this up and it will cost a fortune. I messed one up on a Jeep Grand Cherokee about 15 years ago and it cost £400 to fix, then.

Happy Birthday mate. Thanks for the phone call. I will try the method and let you know what happens.

Hi Paul, I did this with the L/H one that wouldn't budge. Drilled the head off fine. That allowed me to remove the case cover. Heat gun and plusgas on the remaining stud. Put a stud remover on it and the cheese bolt just sheared. Left about 10mm proud of the case so if I cant get anything on this, I will cut it flush and drill it out. Just thinking, it must be your Birthday soon mate!

I have just been looking at the YA-6 engine. The L/H cover came off with only one stuck screw (still in the case) and even with heat, plusgas and a stud remover it just sheared down to a small stud. The R/H is going to be harder, one screw already looks like it is a rivet, and I haven't started on it yet. Got a couple moving but not looking good. I think there is going to be a lot of drilling out and re-threading. On a plus side, the points cam and generator came out quite easily.

Ha ha. I don't keep fish. I would rather see a fish battered, keeping a portion of chips and a wally (or 2) company. It is a right PITA when you drop the battery into a battery box before you can connect the bolts only to find that they need an extra 2mm. A piece of cable sleeving works for me.

Never heard of this brand. The terminals are normally a hollow cube with holes in the side and top. The nut fits in the cube (to make it captive) and the bolt is then thread through the power lead and tightened into captive nut. Some different brands have the "cubes" loose and the cubes need to be fitted first. Are you confident you have brought the correct battery? A picture would make a difference. A battery I fitted recently had the battery bolts a fraction too short to engage the captive nuts and I had to pack the nuts underneath with a little plastic.

Well done on the MOT.

Big bore - looks like a ttr one fits LINKY You want to get as much air and fuel into it as you can. Weight is key - even take the shocks off and use straight bars to hold it. Exhaust - header only slice Gearing - You need to compromise between acceleration and terminal speed. No good getting to 70 quickly to find everything going past you at the 2 mile mark. There are plenty of gearing calculators online.

Hack off the exhaust Gear up for the kind of track you are racing on. Cut off everything you don't need Lose the airbox Fit a big bore kit (170cc??) Look at fitting something like a power commander Or Fit a R1 engine to it.

Page 64 of the manual shows you what do do for the points. To get a better understanding take a look at some you tube videos on 2 stroke point adjusting. The manual should then give you the specs and the you tube video should show you what things look like in greater detail. Something like this to start

Make checking the pump one of the things to do when getting the bike up and running. I wouldn't premix unless I didn't have a pump. You need to make a list of what you are going to check to get the bike running. I know that Sacha pointed you to a thread on the points in the other thread you posted. It can get frustrating and that is why it needs to be done in a methodical way.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Oil to gas ratio? isn't the oil pump working as that is the most effective way of controlling the mix.

Just wanted to say to people: "don't get your old jar of evo-stick out to to this, unless you know what you are doing"

That is interesting Jimmy. Was it the '59 Triumph as vehicles manufactured before 1960 (or thereabouts) don't need an MOT anymore. The current V55/5 still asks for an MOT (if applicable).

Just a note to say that people should be careful of using certain paints, glues, solvents etc on helmets as some will react to chemicals and it will ruin the integrity of the helmet. You may not find this out until the helmet is subject to the stress of an accident.

There are 3 choices. 1) hope the frame has been allocated a reg number in the UK at some time. Email this guy, who is not part of this site [email protected] See if he is still offering the vin to reg service. You will need to pay for this even if there is no information on the DVLA database. If a reg number has been allocated then apply for a replacement V5 as the new owner. 2) get an age related plate Get the bike up and running. MOT it on the frame number Insure it on the frame number Get a dating certificate from Paul Dawkins from this site (payment required). I would check with Paul before going this route as to what he would require to issue a dating certificate. An import form showing where the bike came from and that the import duty has been paid, if appropriate. Request a V55/5 from the DLVA online. Fill in the form and take the relevant documents to your nearest licensing center or apply online (a fee is payable and there is a cost for the road tax). The bike may need to be inspected at this point. 3) get a Q plate Same as above but no dating letter of it the bike has been made of a lot of replacement parts. A matching (or close) engine number would help you to get an age related plate. You say that you contacted Yamaha. Did you call them or email them? If you email you get very little back (in my experience), if you call them they are generally very helpful. You need to identify where the frame came from if it was imported.