DirtyDT

Glad the link was what you wanted. Not a bad price and saves a load of grief. When you take the rear wheel off you should be able to either get a pair of pliers on the remaining, snapped, both and pull the rest of it out or use the axle hole to prod the rest out with a screwdriver. I can't comment on the Cain except to say that you should always change the sprockets when you change the chain. If you don't the new chain will wear quicker. The chain splitter you linked to is a low quality one. This is reflected in the price. It may work, it may not. Before you invest in one make sure you don't have a soft link in the chain. If you spin the rear wheel slowly look at all of the links. A soft link will be noticeable by having a clip on the outside of the link. If you have one of these then you can remove the chain by just taking apart the link with some simple hand tools. If you don't have a soft link then you will need to cut the d chain off or use a chain splitter. The next thing to think about is how the new chain is going to be joined. There are 2 methods 1 use a soft link 2 pein the link that comes with the chain I always buy a soft link or 2 and use those. If you decide to pein the link then this is just a simple knocking over of the link pins once the chain is on. You will need to put come thing solid the opposite side of the chain to make sure you don't stretch the chain sideways.

Something like this? LINKY You will need to do your own checking as to if these will fit as per the full year and model etc.

Eleven days before the nights start to close in. June 21st is the longest day this year. Stop throwing things at me. I can't change the weather.

An interesting article here LINKY

It could be a filter. Not 100% sure on this model as I have never owned one. My understanding is that some/all of them had a plastic tank with the main tank being just for aesthetics. The reason is that people expected the dummy tank to be there so it looked like a normal bike but there was insufficient space to hold what would be considered a decent amount of fuel. To overcome this, they put a separate tank under the seat (I think). This could mean that the dummy tank has fuel in it but there is a blockage between this and the "real" tank. There are some good pictures on this fleabay item LINKY to show you what the real tank looks like. It shows the position of the pump and petcock (fuel tap) as well. I am not saying yours is the same but if you can relate the pictures to where your petcock is, then things may be easier to picture.

Excellent. Well done on the pass.

Just buy a new chain puller for it. Rear wheel off clear out the old, broken puller Pop the new puller into the swingarm Rear wheel on Adjust the new chain Job done. The rear axle is pushed through a hole in the puller.

Have a look here. LINKY Knackered pump Fuel pipe split Kink in the fuel line These are my first 3 guesses now. Is this the model with the false tank and the tank is under the seat or something?

Embedded the video. Sounds like the fuel pump to me.

Rather than starting PM's why not start a thread in the project section? PM's are fine for a little bit of private contact but if we all PM'd our advice there would be very little left on the forum. Sharing the trials, tribulations and success' is a much better way of doing this.

True! I think I am a member there from when it first started. I agree with the pro boards comment.

If you like old jags.

The 2 issues sound unrelated however, if the relay is shot it may still turn the bike over but possibly earthing out the plugs. I don't have a wiring diagram as I am at work. You say you tightened up the battery but it is worth giving the terminals a good clean and making sure that the connections are sound. It could be that a bolt has had it's thread stripped and has shaken loose again. The tests I suggested should start to eliminate either the electrics or fuel issues. A new relay won't hurt anyway but fixing the things is easy, the diagnostics are a bit more difficult.

Cutting out when coming to a stop normally means that the idle is too low. Going around the corner and the bike jerking can be that the wrong gear has been selected. All that said, has the bike been serviced recently and is the chain and clutch adjusted properly? Some bikes benefit from a power commander. I am not sure if the TDM is one of these as the 900 is the later model and I would have thought they would have sorted this out on the 850's. worth checking though.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Everything can be rectified and it was a good intro. A similar story to a lot of people as in bike - wife - child - bike etc and everything being financially squeezed. There are a lot of good helpful people on here - I won't talk about the other ones. A few of us, me included, get a bit arsey with what looks like a quick demand for an answer. This can often be a frustration that, even with the power of the tinterweb, not everything is easy to find and this leads to a desperate and frustrated first post. Anyway, welcome again.

The post can be open to interpretation. There have been quite a few workshop, for sale and wanted items posted in here recently. I have done away with most of them. As for the question, if they are alloys, take the wheels off and take them to a powder coaters. Get them powdercoated black. Job done. Costs about £60 a wheel.

You may have a relay that is shorting out, depending on the noise - clicking? Take a plug out. Is it wet with fuel and smells of petrol? Without putting the plug back in, reconnect it to the ht lead and using a pair of insulated pliers hold it against the engine so that the metal end touches the engine. Turn the bike over with the starter. Does the plug spark? Be careful as it will Zap you if you don't have it isolated.

I would wonder how much messing you are going to have. If you get part way through and you hit a problem I doubt if they will take them back. If you brought them online you can use the distance selling laws to get your money back.

Nothing to do with energy Ian, More to do with doing as I am told and knowing my place. Have you see the prices in Laura Ashley? I thought we were just buying some wallpaper, not paying off the national debt!

So would I. This incontinence is a b'stard.

So far: Went to Homebase Went to Laura Ashley Started to paint the ceiling in the dining area after the new building works - a third of the first coat done on new plaster. Went to pick up a table and chairs. Just sat down (apart from when I was driving).

I guess they are similar to us Ian, wishing for the start of summer. A little sunshine and low winds. Sunday morning and as I sit in the garden with a brew and ciggie, I can hear the local steam train and the sounds of clay shooting. I am not tempted to join in with a little 2 stroke revving. I think there is a difference between pastime kind noises and the sound of traffic or things screaming around just to make noise.

I would have sent them back if I was not happy with them. Did they come form overseas? Personally I have no problem with naming bad (or good) service providing it is honest. If goods are being sold that are shoddy, they it is good that people are informed. I think a lot of us research the tinterweb for reviews on most things so use its power. Why did you want to replace the tubes? they can be re-chromed and straightened providing they are not too far gone.

Posting the same request 3 times in different parts of the forum is not a good idea. I have deleted 2 of the posts and left this one. Your time would have been better spent saying hello in the new members section as people tend to get more help to those who do. Buy a new harness and workshop manual off ebay and fit it the harness using the information in the manual. Job done.

Hi and welcome to the forum.