neversaydie

so not much room in heaven or hell. I bet they have to queue for everything. Imagine trying to get in at the doctors. Hip replacement? come back in an eternity

Jeez, 75 billion corpses

I dont think theres a hope in hell of those nuts screwing off. As per Brians suggestion, Id try something like a dremmel with a small grinding wheel and grind one side of the nut off so that you cna then tap the rest of it (them) off with a small chisel. If successful, that still leaves you with the shagged studs, as its clear form the piccys that the threads are bolloxed. You might be lucky, and with plenty of relase oil, some heat, a stud remover, and plenty of patience, they may just screw out of the casting. If not, cut them off flush, and youll have to try drilling dead down the centre of the stud, and try an easiout. If that doesnt do it, then drill out out the centre with the correct size tapping drill, and try easing the crap out with the correct size of tap. Be mindful that any drilling out must be done dead down the centre of the stud.

then congratulations to you, and jump onboard as big a bike as you wish

Jeeez, I've been there so many times

Although I dont doubt others will disagree, my experience on the Dragstar 125 did prove just that, went down a tooth on the front and just reached 75mph flat out. Standard sprocket (which I think is 15) 65 to 70, one tooth up no more than 65mph. Engine revs at those speeds will increase But its not about flat out speed, going down a tooth will also make acceleration a little more lively. As I'm sure Taskmaster will say, planning/anticipation/decision making on smaller capacity bikes is an essential part of safe riding

Depends if you took Direct Access or not. If not, then I believe you are limited to 33bhp machine maximum

10 nods on the way home from work today, 3 squirt n goes, 2 power rangers, 1 harley, 4 others. Not a single response from any of the buggers

Jimmy, you can post more than one photo per post mate

Check out the Posting Pictures topic in the FAQ New Members section. Easy to follow once your accouint is set up

Perhaps the guy meant snicking it into neutral/first the second before you stick your feet down ie just before you hit dead stop, it is easier thna trying to find first/neutral without drive rotating. Nothing wrong with going down through the box (step changing rather than block changing) and using engine braking. If the bike doesnt allow you to do that, then Im with DT, you need to take it back and if the dealer gives you problems, take it up with yopur local Trading Standards Office, usually found at the County Council

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Best of luck tomorrow, you can do it Just a reminder, dont forget to put your clock back (or is it forwards) tonight

Without dropping the wheel out to check, the XVS 125 looks like 210mm wide

If its still under warranty, I'd take it back. If you tackle it yourself and something goes belly up, you may invalidate the warranty

The majority of vehicles 10 years old or older will not be compatible with E10 due to fuel system material incompatibility issues. Carburettor vehicles and powered two wheelers will suffer problems due to material incompatibility, corrosion, and driveability issues. Field experience has demonstrated that vehicles and petrol fuelled equipment fitted with glass fibre fuel tanks may suffer catastrophic failure due to the incompatibility of the glass fibre resin with petrol ethanol blends. Based on vehicle age, approximately 8.6 million vehicles will be unable to run on E10… Based on average vehicle life of 13 years very approximately half these vehicles will still be in use when the proposed phase out of E5 takes place in 2013. Great research Peter

If ther are no witnesses to say you were speeding, and you didnt admit speeding to anyone, then as has already been said, stick a ruler/tape measure across the hole, take pictures of lenght/width and depth, and start complaining to whoever is responsible for roads in your area (usually the county council), make you local councillor aware of events. Consult a solicitor

Log onto the RS Paints website, put the bike details in, should tell you the paint codes

Silkolene Super 4 10W 40

Glad you both made it home ok Shame about the gloves. Indicative of the age we're in, anything and everything is considered fair game by those who have no respect for anything or anybody, the scum sucking pond life type that consider it fun to piss up war memorials or steal the plaques.

A good lesson in how not to buy a motorbike Having said that, welcome to the forum. It sounds as if you may have to splash some cash to get this up and running, if your mates diagnosis is accurate First off, many folks have asked about xv125 manuals, turns out there as rare as rocking horse shite, so your question about pistons etc compatability may have to be directed to Yamaha Better news on exhausts though. i recall seeing an advert by Custom Cruisers in Alfreton Derbyshire, advertsing xvs 125 custom exhausts for around the £170 mark. Bear in mind that when you take the bike for an mot, you may have to fit baffles to make it legal. It might pay if you post some more info about the bike, mileage for start. The Dragstar 125s arent know as unreliable, apart from an early batch of dodgy crankshafts, build quality was good and so was reliability Use the search function to locate the workshop manual

Im for the 6 sided socket, make sure its a tap on fit so its nice and snug across the flats, good long bar on it, try to ease it both ways at first

Every school should have one Oh, they already do?

Same principle as the Large Hadron Collider, super conductors and magentic fields To expensive for most of us

Be confident mate, be confident Best of luck with it