neversaydie

Thanks for the replies chaps Reason behind the question is that I'm considering investing in some additinal lighting, Im sure youve all seen the sort of thing on other cruisers (bar clamped across under the headlight -lamp each side) Purpose is two-fold. One - to make myself more visible, two - to better illuminate the road infront. Based on the replies above, it looks like spotplights are what I'm after. Said lights then need a switch independent of the exisitng headlight (which is on all the time - american imported bike), so spots can be switched idependently of headlight? Would spotlights come with a dipper switch, or are they just on or off? Or can I run with them on (with the headlight) but adjust the beam angle so that it follows the same path as the main dipped beam and not blind everyone else? Does that make sense?

Spotlights - running lights - headlights They all look the same to me Whats the difference, and are there rules and regs to say what you can have switched on/off at different times/conditions Are they different or are they the same thing If anyone can shed some light on the subject, I'd greatly appreciate it Thanks Ray

Have a good Christmas and New Year everyone Keep safe

Standard front sprocket size is 16 teeth. Moving up to 18 teeth on the front will seriously bring down the top speed, as the engine is not powerful enough to turn the increased load. Engine revs will be lower, but acceleration will be slower too. With standard 16 on the front, the bike should reach 70 flat out. 15 teeth on the front will smarten up the accelration, and when I ran mine with that, I got 75mph flat out, but by fuck the engine was screaming.

Wow. Are they his belongings in the green bags? Looks like shes kicked the scooter over too Guess she found out he's not a member of the Vasetcomy Club after all

Given their current condition, I don't think they'll be going ohm soon, but at least they won't diode

Did that happen in the UK? Lest hope the elf & safety brigade dont start moves to prevent such further "tragic accidents" by making it safer to steal the copper Im surprised no-one robbed the trainers of em

Check to make sure that the centre pop mark on the gear change shaft is in line with the slot on the clamp that clamps onto it. Double check that you have the correct type of oil in, and its at the correct level When downshifting, dont try to snick it into 1st until your almost stopped, just before feet down

Didnt mean any offence Toutsuite, or in any way question he thread. If using 10w 50 is better for my engines, Ill chuck somein. But Im a cautious kind of chap. If yammy spend dollops of money developing engines, and then the lubricants to use inthem, does using something elseinvalidate the warranty? If the engines not getting as hot, does that mean the tolerances and fits that yammy planned as a consequence of the research are no longer apply? Is that good orbad, sonce expansion would have been planned for in the design stage? Does the thicker oil at operatign temp mean the pressure in the cranckcase increases? Or am I just a boring old twat

Just a quick tip, make sure that the plug screws in straight. It should spin in with your fingers upto the washer, then just a tweek with the socket, say a quarter turn. Dont force the plug in if it tightens up well before you get to the washer Easy to cock up, bastard to correct. Good luck with it

So, if i've got this right then,10w 50 is thicker than 10w 40 at operating temperature Wont that result in poorer lubrication?

Interesting! Whenever folks have asked here about which oil to use for the dragstars, I've always recommended the Silkolene for the same reasons Toutside has described. However, this is the first time I've seen/heard of the 10W 50 being used. Now I'm certainly no expert, but doesnt that mean the oil is thinner and is more likely to become sluggish when the cold ie freezing weather hits?

Not noticed any tarnishing, I applied to everywhere including chrome. Does tend to spread itself though. Tried to keep well clear of the brake discs pads, but the first time after I rode the Virago, front brake was useless, pads out/discs cleaned and fine now. Some white smoke when the engine/exhausts get hot.

Hi all, sprayed both the bikes last week, are you supposed to leave the stuff on all winter, if you wash the bike do you have to re-apply? (not something I wanna do again in a hurry) I anticiapte using both bikes all winter Any advice welcome Thanks

A 16 tooth sprocket on the front will reduce the engine revs, but will drop your top speed and acceleration as the engine doesn't have the power. Ill bet when you drop it into 5th and come to a slight incline, the speed starts to drop away. I agree with triton, fit a standard sprocket and see what impact that has, and check your rear sprocket against a standard one, previous owner may have changed that

Good luck on Wedensday, you can do it

Dont touch anything or you may invalidate the warranty. Take it back.

and the ball and cock inspection at school! now cough!

Picture this, white backgrounds like the HD etc. Beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. I'd still pick the draggie, even if I could afford the HD

Bloody hell, yes. My old school shirts were Bri-nylon, made you sweat even on a cold day, that was in the 60s. Thought theyd long passed away, they deserve too How old are these shirts of yours then?

Yep, thats a decent looking bike But I think Toutsuites draggie looks better I cant help it, its not brand loyalty, the draggies look better in my view. They may be half the price, 2/3rds the weight, half the engine size, come to a stop in half the distance, and only have half the "street cred", but they are more than equal in looks

Plain and simple, the Dragstar 650 is a real good looking bike, and good build quality. Its down to every mans taste, but Ive yet to see a HD looking as good as a well looked after Dragstar

Congrats, she looks real cute. Her birth has provoked some interesting comments about children following in fathers/grandfathers footsteps, by taking to two wheels. Neither of my two girls has shown much interest, both mid twenties now, so I've not given much thought as to whether I would encourage or not. The young take up a surprising number of activities these days, climbing/horse riding etc, which carry an element of danger. They do it because they wish too. Perhaps the best approach is to let them decide for themselves when the time arrives, and encourage is any interest is shown. I bet many of us have advised children to not do something, only for them to ignore that advice

You need to buy a set of leads for the bike, should come with the proper caps on both ends. Its an easy job to replace the leads, pull old ones off , push new ones on. Make sure plugs are clean and gap is correct Id check other electrical connections too for cleanliness/dryness, as I recall that you ride the bike in tropical downpours, and muddy roads

Hi Kelum, hope youve been keeping well. Just a couple of quickies to start off with. Check the plug is screwed in tight, check that the plug gap is set correctly, if there is a small screwed cap on the plug make that that is is nice and tight. Try swapping the plugs over, does the fault transfer with the plug? Try swapping the leads, does the fault transfer over?