neversaydie

Done

Can't agree. Don't put your hands or fingers anywhere near a chain moving under power, it's extremely dangerous, more so for people inexperienced in such tasks. If you need to clean the chain take it off to clean, wash it in parrafin, let it dry thoroughly, then either lube it and refit or refit then lube it (but not with it driving)

With only 3-4 k on the clock the chain and sprockets should be fine as long as they are not too tight or loose. Got the owners manual? Tells you how to check/adjust the chain. If it were me, id change the oil/oil filter/air filter/spark plugs, and check the brakes work properly and are free from the disk if its been stood for 3 years Enjoy, looks like a noce clean bike

POOR RUNNING OR NO POWER AT HIGH SPEED FIRING INCORRECT air filter restricted, clean or replace spark plug fouled, defective or worn out spark plug cap or HT wiring defective spark plug cap not in good contact incorrect spark plug, wron type/heat range igniter defective ignition coils defective FUEL/AIR MIXTURE INCORRECT main jet clogged, clean the fuel tap filter, float bowl, jets and orifices main jet wrong size throttle shaft to carburetor body clearance excessive air bleed holes clogged air cleaner to carburetor boot poorly sealed, cracked holed, or loose clamps fuel level too high or too low, adjust floats fuel tank air vent obstructed carburetor intake jopints loose, carcked, broken, torn or loose clamps or bolts fuel tap clogged fuel line clogged COMPRESSION LOW sparl plug lose cyclinder head not sufficiently tightened down improper valve clearnace cylinder and or piston worn piston rings worn piston ring to groove clearance excessive cylinder head gasket damaged cylindrr head warped valve spring broken or weak valve not seatin properly KNOCKING OR PINGING carbon build up in combustion chamber incorrect or poor fuel quality spark plug heat range incorrect improper air/fuel mixture MISCELLANEOUS throttle valve doesnt fully open clutch slipping timing not advancing engine oil viscosity too high brakes dragging

Private roads at home? Youve got a country estate?

Not doing bad this winter, only 5 trips to work in the car so far, but bloody hell it was cold last night at 11.30pm coming home, glad its only 7 miles each way Both bikes passed the mot this week, both insured on dual bike policy £140, still can't bring myself round to getting rid of the Dragstar, been using it as the winter commuter hack

I hope that he tidys up the kitchen before the wife gets back

Bandit, ER-6 the new NC700. The latter is reported to deliver over 60 mpg even when ridden hard. Last years ER-6 could be a bargain now the new models is out. If youre riding over winter in the peaks, reliability and robust. Any of those 3 should take 2 up to the coast no problems

vespaspares.co.uk 01908217904, £104.70

Silkolene Super 41 10/40, £5 to £6 a litre

Workshop manual/service manual, its the same thing. Takes you through it step by step

Part No YA00198610, oemmotorparts.com, 122.48 euros

According to Wemoto, it is indeed 520/114. If you can get the chain off, I'd coun the teeth on the sprockets. Just like the Dragstar 125, owners swap them to try to get more mph/mpg. If the sprockets have been changed, then the chain length may need to be shorter/longer as you might not have enough adjustment. Standard sprockets are 16 teeth front, 38 teeth rear

Not familiar with the bike, I have to assume that the pedal sits on bush and shaft, which is held on by a circlip. If the clip has come off and allowed the pedal to come off the shaft, has the adjustable linkage then rotated itself and now reqs resetting?

Check and adjust (if reqd) every 6,000 kms Intake 0.08 - 0.12mm Exhaust 0.10 - 0.14mm Use the search function and locate both the owners manual and the workshop manual. If you cant find em, let me know and I'll mail em to you

Moving target practice time

Congratulations, its a great bike to start off with, good build quality and reliability Keep it clean, follow the service recommendations, and enjoy it for what it is. 12k is not a lot of miles in 7 years. Check the serivice record, it might be due some work. Might be worth counting the teeth on the front and rear sprockets as owners frequentyl change them to try to improve performance/mpg. Standard are 16 teeth on the front and 38 teeth on the rear. Its best to know what youve got on the bike as it does impact upon performance. Standard sprockets should get you to 70mph, but it may not hold that when going up an incline. Think of it more as a 50 to 60mph cruiser/commuter Early models 2000-01 had some reported crankshaft failures, but yours should not be affected. Check that 2005 date, I thought that they stopped making them in 2004, but it could have been first registred in 2005. Be wary about modifying the exhaust system, you may have to buy and fit baffles when it comes to MOT time, and perfomance may be affected If youve not already got them, search for the owners manual and service manual on this site, or send me a message and Ill mail them to you. Good luck with it

I'd be surprised if it says in your owners manual to change wheel bearings after a set period or mileage. Its more normal to state that they are checked 2-3000 miles or so.You dont want to be changing parts unecessarily. The more you knock a bearing in/out/off of its housing/journal, the slightly worse the quality of fit becomes.How about checking them monthly if youre that concerned. Lift the back and front wheels clear of the deck in turn, spin the wheels and listen for any squeeking/grinding/squeeling while keeping a hand on the axle feeling for any knocking/vibration. Put the wheels back on the deck and grab hold of them and try to force them by hand at right angles to travel. Generally speaking, if none of these throw up any concerns, they should be ok If you do by bearings, buy OEM or look for a reputable name like INA/SKF. There are some cheap crap bearings around these days, dont take any chances with inferior quality

Sorted. New o rings in, no more leaks from the oil filter cover plate, and the bonus was no more drips from the protector. I now reckon that the oil had run down the small cable clip-across the bottom of the crankcase and into the protector-where it then dripped out of the hole. Couldnt initially see this as the protector stands off a couple of mill from the crankcase.

The drips are from a small hole in the centre of the protector, approx 1.5mm dia, its not oil running from the o ring seal

Been doing some servicing today. When I fired the bike back up, oil was leaking from the filter cover plate, cause I must have nicked the outer o ring when refitting. Im not worried about that as new o rings should sort it., but I also noticed a steady drip from 20 - protector- on the dwg. I dont know what it protects as I cant find anything that fits in the protector in the servoce manual. Im guessing here that there might be a presure switch under the protecto and that the dropping is due to the leaking past the o ring? I never touched the protector so nothing shoukld have affected its performance, whatever it is Can anyone tell me if Im right, and that replacing the blown o ring will also stop the protector from dripping? Thanks Ray

Gotta agree with Drewpy, current practice says try to keep moving and take pain killers. If it persists for more than a few days, try and get in at your doctors, but if it is muscualr rather than bone problem, they are likely to tell you the same

Judi Tzuke - Stay With Me till Dawn: sun rising over the grey slate roofs on back to back terraces on a cold winter morn, following that first never to be forgotten night of passion and lust John Williams - Hymn to The Fallen: Never forget the sacrifice made by others on our behalf Vaughn Williams - A Lark Ascending: Reminds me that we've still got some great countryside left, and its bloodywell worth keeping Golden Earring - Radar Love: Shit kicking rock at its best

Hi NEO, Im gonna have to look around some more for the "right" lights. LEDs would drain less, and Id like them on with the headlight, angled low (same as dipped beam) Hi Clarkegray, yes theyre for the Virago, I generaly use the Dragstar as a shit weather ride these days as theres more plastic on it so less chance of rust, and its solid in the wet. I thought much about selling it, but its been such a good bike, still in great nick, I cant bring myself to do it. Who knows, 15 years down the line there may not be many in standard form left, as so many have been bastardised ( sorry - bobbed). Ive noticed that they are holding their price well. Thanks again for the comments chaps