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drewpy

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Everything posted by drewpy

  1. Its possible, but adapting the bracket would be troublesome. usually its a shaped homemade bracket welded to frame is easiest way
  2. drewpy

    Xs400

    cheers, its got stainless wires and valanced alloy rims on now!!
  3. do you have a schematic diagram as I don't think that there is too much difference. Just the connection trigger to CDI box and CDI power/coils. If you still have the wiring loom, it might be best to connect up and unravel the outer cover and keep your wires connected to the cdi.
  4. Hope you had a good 'un!
  5. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your cuppa across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Yeouw....' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond the original intended target object. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 10mm or 13mm socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. WORK LAMP: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,' which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic senseless. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands. DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big hammer
  6. have you done a forum search? (rhetorical question)
  7. that's The George Cross. (Capitalisation)
  8. union jack is flown from a ship union flag is what you mean, and I'm a scouter and salute the flag and what it represents every week.
  9. just make sure the square inner cable end fits in the square socket. the outer cable is round and theres no orientation.
  10. I actually sucked the fluid through the caliper with the lever compressed. I used a clear pipe so i don't drink the stuff. then I routed the hose over and in the m/c resevior so once the fliud starts moving all air is expunged within the resevior. I also then simutanisly compressed the lever and opened the bleed screw on caliper, kept the lever to the bar and shut off the bleed screw. That's because i noticed it just kept pushing the fluid back and forth via the clear pipe. when it stops going back and forth and reaches back to the m/c its easy enough to keep pumping and the new fluid keeps recycling. Read this in CCM by Chris "writebike" pearson!!
  11. Have you checked fuses for integrity? take 'em out and bit of wire wool the fuse ends and clips. battery fully charged and charging? have you tried a completly different coil and lead to eliminate that part? there are electronic coils and contact assisted coils!! the ignition trigger is pretty robust and works on either magnetism or optical (if optical need to make sure that the cover is on as sunlight would affect running) is there 12v being supplied when the bike becomes faulty? use a multimeter probe and crank over.
  12. yep xs are 34mm, why don't you email and ask for the sizing?
  13. drewpy

    Wiring?

    you may have a 2 in 1 fitted somewhere, all bikes need a regulator and rectifier if you want the battery charged. racers do away with this but need to charge the battery off the bike every meet.
  14. no take it right out first, as it fits in a metal rebate on the outer cable. The cable will be a bit stiff, twist with pliers first!!
  15. does sound like clutch adjustment. As the engine rotates it will let you go forward ( in a way engine assited clutch drag) but try and push back you are going against the engine rotation. maybe your clutch rod is bent slightly so the clutch has no time to fully disengage!!
  16. you need to RIDE THE BIKE! this is the best way to keep the engine in good condition. the engine isn't getting hot enough as it need to be under load.
  17. drewpy

    Its meeeeeee......

    I'll be on the xs400, what your riding?
  18. drewpy

    Checking Oil

    should go faster than 55 I get the ton out of my 400, 250's will do 80mph bike on centre stand, level ground, unscrew the dippy, wipe it, then rest on top without further screwing ( sounds a bit rude this post!) pull out and check level. I recommend using 20w 50 millers classic sport oil semi synth or equivelent oil in states http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_BIKE.htm
  19. I used a file and did it by hand,its only alloy and easy to do on the caliper mount. I left the hub alone
  20. drewpy

    Its meeeeeee......

    I'm booked in the barnsley M/C festival this year!! I'll have to get your autograph then
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