drewpy

Shhhhhh!!....... Don't tell anyone...... I'm gonna go down on you.... ...And you're gonna love it........... ........But it's only going to be long enough to let you start enjoying it........ ....Then I'm gonna come back up again and fuck you big time..... Lots of love, Petrol prices xx

i assume its on a screw adjustment which means its alloy and you have gone past the threads there for cross threading when you screwed it back! if it uses a stepped system, just keep turning the same way and it will go back to slack. i don't know the dragstar but most systems are the same

mechanical works by bob weights spinning outwards with centrifugal force and pushing the rear points plate around to advance the ignition as the motor increases with speed. vaccuum works the same way but uses the intake manifold to move the plate, as when the engine speed increases it draws more vacuum thus moving the plate more. when i say points they could also be conactless using hall effect or magnetic triggers. on fully electronic systems the advance is "mapped" into the rev range to provide differing curves for each gear and revs.

looks like the 6N (top of my head) model which was an update between the older style xs's and the dohc. these were maily sold in germany. you will have rear sets and a rubber mounted engine along with slightly modified seat, tail, tank and oil sight glass. everything else with be as per haynes (they have an addendum at the back for the differences with your model)

don't "upgrade" to disks its not worth it and the bike is worth more with those as many peeps use them to make a cafe racer. best to turn over without sparkies and a bit of oil. check battery is fully charged first. be ready to scrap tyres if over 4 years old as they can crack and fail. new oil and filter if after it starts, as the camshaft has no bearing surface and is direct in to alloy head. check also the gauze oil filter accessed from under the engine with 6 x m6 bolts

its an poor earth problem, the earthing is finding a way through the headlamp and to the idicator, making a circuit for them to operate. start witht the rear black wires and clean the connections and earth straps

are you sure that you cannot put an extra tooth on the front sprocket, this equals to 3 teeth on the back (did it on my 400). you really don't want to mess inside the cluster!

good to hear

or you mixed up the coils if there are two single ones

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

I'm a bit confused what you are trying to say. do you have a picture or link to the part?

looks like you will have to get a starter pinion set. I've seen them on mikes xs I think. the left hand casing will have to come off, but you shouldn't need to drain the oil if you leave the bike on its mainstand. you will also need to get a special tool to break the rotor as the starter pinion is behind this. I am assuming that this is the sohc version drewpy

the service manual says it is 1st edition may 1981 from engine # 3F9-000101

if you can read german there are loads of 12R stuff in german web sites www.xs400.de you will find sig links to the correct site. they have the detuned version for the german domestic market. i have the '82 and '83 parts manual on cd along with most of the sohc stuff. i think pioneers x got the '83 off me and hosted it on his site!!

take out the valves and put them in a drill, use fine wet n dry and spin away dead easy. keep an eye on the vavle seats as there maybe a stepped seat and has to match the cyl head. always keep valves in the same place you took them from. ideal for alu engines is vapour blasting some companies can do the complete engine with no stripping involved. i had my head ceramic cleaned in a drum by steve smethhurst in salford uk. and its till as clean 2 years down the line.

for an xs400sg

found a supplementl section in my official Yam service manual, here goes; model id 3F9-00 main jet #135 needle jet Y-2 Pilot jet #42.5 starter jet #35 jet needle 5GZ9 float height 27.3 +/- 0.5mm air jet main #45 air jet pilot #155

I hate to tell you this but I just viewed the 83' parts manual and there are only 5 gears listed

love the flat tracker version, what tank is it? and yeah those pipe are way cool

1. correct so when you open up the tang it shuts the fuel off "earlier" and gives you a lower fuel height. You hold the carbs right way round and gently blow though the fuel inlet whilst raising the floats. when the air stops, that's where the measurement is taken. 2. I thought 111's were for the dohc xs400? correct me if i'm wrong. 3. I don't do inches only metric

The float height is measured at fuel shut off NOT bottomed out as in pictures!! bend the tongue down towards carb to shut fuel off earlier and lowers the level of fuel in carb bowl are you sure they are 111's? the tickover adjustment is on the outside and have plastic floats

its been covered to death on other posts.

my bad, just checked the parts book and they are the correct wheels and 19" front. just seems a retrograde step when the thinking at the time was going over to 17". I know that yam used 16" with higher profile tyre on "factory customs"