a long shot, but can your fab man make a top tripletree which has a 2 " drop either side?
bit like this __/----\__ not sure how safe that would be, but you could get him to do it at cost as the bike was too low in the first place!!
drewps
yea give up!!...........not
you need to get your parts together via the online parts book try www.cmsnl.com and then get a manual and read it.
if the noise is on tick over it usually means clutch, but without hearing it and from where can't tell ya too much. why not act daft and see a bike mechanic who will be able to diagnose it straight away?
Chris Pearson (writebike) used to put a pipe from the caliper nipple into the brake resevoir using wire to secure and then press the lever with the nipple slack and before realsing it tighten up the nipple.
eventually you get a fluid circuit and you can see it sometimes just going back and forwards within the tube if you dont do the nipple trick.
One last thing is to leave the lever pressed via a cable tie overnight to purge any errant air.
drewps
and try fitforx
the forks are "hard chromed" not the same as decorative chroming although you could get away with it for a few years ( i have at the moment) hard chroming is an engineering chrome used because it can be groung down to specs. used in hydraulic rams etc
now I really can't wait to go
I'll chack that rout on me map, cheers
No car, just me XS baby. CB750F1 and a friend of a friend
sorry Goff, the missus is already having a fit with me going without "discussing it"
coil will only get hot if theres a fault or it can't fire the plug. Could be a faulty ht lead!! problem is the're bonded in, but you can dremel the side and pull the ht lead out and epoxy a new one in
try swapping coils to check
drewps
I think the coils are bonded to the HT leads as were mine. There is a fix where you can dremel away the coil body to extract the lead and epoxy in a new one.
or buy new link to xs11 site
Usually voltage regulator problem, stator and field coil dont touch anything so are reliable. wires could crack where the drive chain flings oil on them though!!
never disconnect battery when alternator is generating as it will fry!
see other thread re: ignition
can't help, fork spring length is 502mm though!
main jet 132.5
air jet 45
jet needle-clip position 5Z1-3
needle jet X-6
pilot jet 42.5
starter jet 30
fuel level 32 +/- 1mm
conacts are reliable normally!
neutronic (newtronic?) had a system which replaced the contacts, there may be some knocking around in america.
I had a box made in germany which used the contacts to trigger the eletronics. so far 100% relianble and I can go back to analogue if it fails on the road!!
cheers for the info, not sure about the itinery yet, but when its nearer the time I'll be in touch!! aparantly this guy knows and races with the Dunlop's so might get to meet them!!