drewpy

that's been on ebay for a while

dusty try here for codes; http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp http://www.dropbears.com/m/models/yamaha/modelcodes.htm

shit in the right carb, try spraying easy start in the carb and see if it fires ( or dump some fuel into the cylinder)

try and steal/beg/borrow another battery of good provenance and see if that helps. i had my bike get slower and slower comming from a rainy long ride and switching off my head lamp helped. turns out it wasn't charging ( 1 month old battery) a new quality battery (yuasa) cured it! drewps

this has been done to death on this forum you either have a dirty carb pilot system or an air leak on the inlet stubs

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wurth progrssive front springs and new fork seals of course hagon rear shocks, the business

standard pilot and 135 mains

well i done a few more stuff this weekend... I stick welded some 8mm brackets for padock stand brackets will finish when dry build complete and was thinking outside the box and decided to mount my ignition switch where the starter motor went. so i amd cutting out the alternator side panel to fit a 28mm modded washer and have gutted the starter motor and modded that so i can fit the marine ignition switch inside along with connections

gs360 have a look at the stcky in this sections as there are manuals which cover the range 250, 360 and 400 models spark is bp-6es, one of the small differences in the model range drewps

always sit on it was 3 years ago and they are local to me, must have put them in another job! like all other stuff, prep is the key.

no 15 in the fiche try www.bikebandit.com

likes them

zincing cost £100!! i think mine cost a £5 about 20 items!! ( 3 years ago though at RS chrome) they've been around for a while and advertise in CMM but I hav'nt used them. PJ1 is good, but not that good. i did look into painting stuff , but the vendors said for longevity get 'em plated!

that something is located under the frame of the top spine under the rear of the tank ( in front of the battery) hopefully you can see the branch of the loom where it was! I am also assuming its the 2A2 model

joe, and good luck

I put some masking tape with sponge on the frame rails, engines go in/out from right hand side i think the rd aircooled had a supplier but did a search and couldn't find it! why don't you use a casswel kit and do it yourself? drewps

tons of spares and info in the USA and ebay, very popular bike!

rpm's = 1200 2.5 turns from LIGHT bottoming out. its an air srcew, so screw in richens, out weakens ( well it does on mine!!)

audilvr which counry are you from, no good me giving suppliers from different part of the world

i've used 10/40 before and the motor didn't like it. that's why i went with 20/50 semi synth. i've used the bike for 3 years now and there's no wear in the bore or camshaft. yamaha recommend 20/40 but that's impossible to get over here in blighty. your right about using mineral oil in a newly built engine. i used duckams and thrashed it for 40 miles to bed in the bores etc. then used the 20/50, tried 10/40 and back to 20/50! when i rebuilt my bike i used assembly oil which is like treacle and sticks to surfaces. i used this because it was a while till i was able to fire it up and it gave it the best possible protection. i never used drab olive as i bought new bolts which were already done plus stainless throughout the rest of the bike. drewps