drewpy

engine and frame number would help as we don't possess ESP yet! picture would also be nice

certainly a good point about no load as this could prevent the grease from penetrating at the load point.

Talking to a tech guy today at local bike dealer, and he recommends using 140w gear oil for greasing the swing arm as opposed to normal grease. The thinking behind this is that normal grease hardens with age and stops doing its job. What do you guy's and Gals think about using 140w gear oil?

try ebay germany. they liked the euro styling of this model and there are quite a few there. I def saw a (white) Guilari seat for that model on ebay not long ago here you are ebay #'s 280111501642 260206738584 140187893259

just a note on woodrough keys, they are only there as a guide and don't stop the magneto from turning, this is done by the taper on the crank and why you have a puller to separate the parts.

in less air. As a guide, should be 1 1/4 turns out from the bottom

Well, guess what I'm doing at the moment Jack the bike up, or leave on main stand but raise 2" off ground undo caliper and tie up from frame (or if drum don't do this) Take off speedo drive and front wheel undo the clamps for the legs and twist down and off the bike (that's why you jack it up) tricky bit..... use an 8mm (i think) Allen key under fork leg and clamp leg in vise. (you have left the springs in didn't you?) using a shock/snap motion, loosen and undo the bolt. you still have oil in so be careful. leave standing on a bowl to let oil drain out (pref overnight) If the bolt turns but doesn't undo, come back on here as now it becomes a pain. Repeat for the other leg get the wife to take out the circlip whilst you push down on the top spring securing plug. (my missus has done this before and is really good at it. If you're lucky you can get her in a position so her tits rub on your arm, Bonus!!) take off the lower fork leg circlip Prise out the seal with a tyre lever and use heat. Mine has come out easy as i did this a few years ago and greased (ACF50) the seal watch for a spacer under the seal clean all the crud at the bottom of the leg drift in the new seal making sure it is the right way up anneal the copper washer for the allen bolts and check for any signs of wear reverse procedure for assembly (inc the missus help!)

A coach driver was driving a load of blind people around. He stopped at a pub for a drink and being the kind person that he was, he told the blind people to play some football, and attatched a couple of bells on a ball so then they could hear where abouts it was. After much plastering of himself, a couple of coppers walked in and asked who was looking after a bunch of blind people. The driver owned up and asked them why. "Well sir they're kicking the shit out of a load of morris dancers!"

They are built to use unleaded, must be your locale. I thrash mine and never get pinging. I regulary do 80+mph on cheshire A/B roads (weather and cameras permitting) and it never fails or throws a wobbler. I do keep it in tune though

I put semi-syth millars 20/50 in mine, which is a fossil based cracked oil. I did post a similar reply in another thread, whereas I said synth was too slippy for the clutch and I got derided

what a frame and engine? it's inearly stages as I am fitting an under tank brake master cyl and I'm having to do it outside (bloody freezing) and I'v got no money after Xmas/birthdays. Will post soon as there is something to see

I've used all 3 and can't tell the difference, so I stick with the cheapest. handbook just says regular or low lead fuel

Dear Neville, I hope you can help me here. The other day I set off for work leaving my husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't gone more than a mile down the road when my engine conked out and the car shuddered to a halt. I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't believe my eyes. He was in the bedroom with a neighbour lady making mad passionate love to her. I am 32, my husband is 34 and we have been married for twelve years. When I confronted him, he tried to make out that he went into the back yard and heard a lady scream, had come to her rescue but found her unconscious. He'd carried the woman back to our house, laid her in bed, and began CPR. When she awoke she immediately began thanking him and kissing him and he was attempting to break free when I came back. But when I asked him why neither of them had any clothes on, he broke down and admitted that he'd been having an affair for the past six months. I told him to stop or I would leave him. He was let go from his job six months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and worthless. I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has become increasingly distant. I don't feel I can get through to him any more. Can you please help? Sincerely, Mrs. Sheila Usk Dear Sheila, A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a variety of faults with the engine. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line. If it is clear, check the jubilee clips holding the vacuum pipes onto the inlet manifold. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the carburetor float chamber. I hope this helps. Neville

I would have thought just use the bike. Its prob the metal sandwich plates have gone a little rusty.

I would say europe, prob Germany or Netherlands

I met an old man a few years ago who slagged off the xs400 he had, saying it ran backwards!! then preceded to tell me he got the timing and leads all wrong. So it can and does happen....to the select few!!

quote their website SITE PROBLEM OVER CHRISTMAS. Between 26th December and 4th January this site was experiencing problems due to a server error. This has caused delays in responding to queries and processing orders for which we appologies. We aim to have all orders and queries fullfilled by 11th January. We would like to apologies for this delay

125cc

check out the web site as i think they charge a flat fee of £20 courier. a more southwest based powder coater is Griffs reality motor works in Bristol, they have also done work for magazines, but i havn't used them.

I used triple-S powder coaters who prefer to cover all the threads themselves. they are based in keithly nr Leeds. google triple s and the web site is full of info what to do. Classic bike and classic motorcycle mechanics use them, 'nough said.

I have seen your question in the german xs400.de forum, and I think those guys are probably your best bet as that model was popular there. I'm sure that one of the posters has a 12e bike and has pictures of his conversion. check out their signatures.

your right, I looked on the micro fiches and can see no oil cooler reference. the only alternative i can see (as long as you have the oil line in/out from the engine) is to get hoses made and buy an after market oil cooler. they are easy to source and lines are easy to get made up. hope that helps

try here for OEM http://www.motogrid.com/pages/parts/viewby...d/2/yamaha.aspx $225 dollars though

Hi Mark, I suggest you first get a Haynes manual and read it. Then post any specific problems you encounter along the way and we'll be pleased to help you. best post in the "workshop" or "classic" part of the forum tho' for quicker replies