drewpy

don't forget tx 500 as well!!

I think there was a discussion on aircooled rd site and the consensus was they were too fragile. Don't forget that these were one of the first production "alloy" wheel and Yam were still learninig their craft. That's why I spent over £400 on flanged ally spoked wheels, much lighter (and sexxy!)

Dat's funny

there was one on ebay not long ago!! typical eh? I sourced mine from usa and got them zinc plated, now looks like new. Item number: 320213545092 just found on usa ebay, no wire hook though for compressing rear swing arm if you want i can show you mine I assume that they are very similar comming from the same stable!!

I wouldn't as the varnish lifts after a bit and looks horrible. I did consider all the merits when I rebuilt my bike. so in the end I opted to hand polish every now and then and after 2 years it looks as good as when i first did it!!

It shouldn't do!! make sure the battery is fully charged and functional as this is required to charge up the battery (sounds daft, but the stator is excited by magnatism via the field coil and needs a good 12v) you should be reading 14.5 volts @ 3k revs across the battery

belive it or not, the white powder is protecting the alu underneath! best way is to use wet and dry, start rough and work your way to 1200 NEVER USE WIRE WOOL, it embeds into the soft alu and then rusts!! I stick mine on a polishing mop then peeks polish to keep it that way.

i'll be there 26th!

mine does that and I totally rebuilt the motor. thats why there is a cover there. A tiny little bit will come out when on main stand, but will piss out on side stand. to check if condensor has gone, open up the points cover and if the points are sparking, then your condensors knackered or not earthing properly.

bloody hell ,that's some haul. can't belive the balls of some people, I hope they catch them soon!!

if your desparate, who ya gonna call? http://www.motogrid.com/pages/parts/viewby...d/2/yamaha.aspx hope your $700 desperate

try new cam http://www.megacyclecams.com/catalog/page57.pdf dial in your carb settings on a rolling road cheapest way i know the get better performance is to lose weight, so go on a diet!!!! .... welcome to the forum!

kids aren't cleverer, its the crap exam Questions they get and the school system. My kids are in school and even though the schools are in the top 10, they flit from 1 subject to the next and if you don't get it, tough. then there are no winners and losers , just participants. and playing certain games like "tikky it" is banned due to health & safety!! no wonder private schooling is on the up!!! don't know if you saw that programme where the kids did the old O level standards, 2 passed out of 30, enough said

I'd drain the fuel out, put in the best octane in and then thrash the bugger. running an engine for 15mins will only coat the engine in crap, especially if not under load. riding like you stole it, is sometimes the best way to maintain an engine as full bore is the most efficient for an engine. I do this with my bike and car and you can see the crap burning out the back. just my 2p worth

nah, winking is good for you!! its the quality of schooling today and to much txtng and l33t sp33k!

sounds like a relay. if it persists get it replaced as it will draw a lot of current and will blow your fuse

eh!? my blacks can pull and the osme starting was fine. unfortunalty my hand can't kick start with the big spring on me crutch!!

sounds like a fuel supply problem, check fuel flow and put an inline filter on. check float bowl height as last resort

you only need to lift the cam cover off to do it. not a big job

bin done http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8433

sorted, got my vote

these are the pictures of the xs450 that was on german ebay a couple of years ago i have used google translator and changed the obvious pidgen english remarks; fzr disk and GXR 4 pot caliper contactless CDI ignition system from the Suzuki GSX 400 E was reworked, which is taken directly from the crankshaft end. a new CNC milled housing/cover Yoshimura pistons with 73 mm bore new Yoshimura liners pressed in cylinder head: complete revised with shortened valve stems, worked on and polished , new valves (inlet 36 mm, exhaust 30mm) and with the 38 HP cam shaft

I'd check with yamaha, as its suprising how much stuff they still have on stock. +.25 is the next step, if you go for +1mm you have no more options, though i did see a conversion to 450cc in germany with opened valves and had to reline the barrels and cut the crancase mouths. i have the pictures and may post if anyone interested!

well done on getting this far. overboring won't provide extra power only, restore the compression and hence the original power it had. there are a set of .25 overs on ebay at the mo' and you will need to give these to the machine shop so they can match the bores. when I have mine done here in manchester, he marked each piston to bore, so i know he knows his stuff. don't forget they need honing (45' cross hatch) to retain the oil on the bore. when I got my engine finished i read a school of thought that you should use mineral oil and thrash the engine for 20 miles, this breaks in the rings to the bores. it worked for me and i don't burn any oil at all. then you drain the oil and change filter and put in "whatever you use" oil!

300 micro farad capacitor or this http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/bat_elim.php