drewpy

sorry but i don't have time to scan 150 pages of a haynes manual. i can scan the relevant section but my PSU has gone on my main PC ( on the missus laptop), so i'tl have to wait till i can fit a new one. I can do that for you later if you want?

you a were wolf?

looking at the hayes manual it looks like you have 3n6 or the later 4a2 model. changes were; larger fuel tank seat height reduced rearsets swingarm lengthened spring; revised rates front and rear stearing lock on ignition revised ignition coil rest were cosmetics

they are not fitted to the uk xs400's so i'd do it, there is a small diagram for the system in the haynes manual if your tempted to fix it! (page 138)

you can still get the filters, try bikebandit and motogrid first

no clutch switch fitted to the sohc xs400's. if you stall, just pull the clutch in and start the bugger, easier to find neutral then or slip the clutch till the thing bites.

the rubber will have hardened with age (bit like us really) best to soften by using a hair dryer and then taking the air cleaners off first then the crankbreather (hard one, brute force needed and leave to one side connected to the hoses) then the carb to air filter hoses.They are a sod sometimes and you need to wiggle them up and down and pull back at the same time. tilt the carbs up and down and pull back like the hoses and they should come out

what, you meant to write in a honda forum

nice one, thought we was getting a haynes russian translation at first. I like it when it says " remove item" then you spend an hour doing just that and the "harder" part becomes the doddle.

Shhhhhh!!....... Don't tell anyone...... I'm gonna go down on you.... ...And you're gonna love it........... ........But it's only going to be long enough to let you start enjoying it........ ....Then I'm gonna come back up again and fuck you big time..... Lots of love, Petrol prices xx

i assume its on a screw adjustment which means its alloy and you have gone past the threads there for cross threading when you screwed it back! if it uses a stepped system, just keep turning the same way and it will go back to slack. i don't know the dragstar but most systems are the same

mechanical works by bob weights spinning outwards with centrifugal force and pushing the rear points plate around to advance the ignition as the motor increases with speed. vaccuum works the same way but uses the intake manifold to move the plate, as when the engine speed increases it draws more vacuum thus moving the plate more. when i say points they could also be conactless using hall effect or magnetic triggers. on fully electronic systems the advance is "mapped" into the rev range to provide differing curves for each gear and revs.

looks like the 6N (top of my head) model which was an update between the older style xs's and the dohc. these were maily sold in germany. you will have rear sets and a rubber mounted engine along with slightly modified seat, tail, tank and oil sight glass. everything else with be as per haynes (they have an addendum at the back for the differences with your model)

don't "upgrade" to disks its not worth it and the bike is worth more with those as many peeps use them to make a cafe racer. best to turn over without sparkies and a bit of oil. check battery is fully charged first. be ready to scrap tyres if over 4 years old as they can crack and fail. new oil and filter if after it starts, as the camshaft has no bearing surface and is direct in to alloy head. check also the gauze oil filter accessed from under the engine with 6 x m6 bolts

its an poor earth problem, the earthing is finding a way through the headlamp and to the idicator, making a circuit for them to operate. start witht the rear black wires and clean the connections and earth straps

are you sure that you cannot put an extra tooth on the front sprocket, this equals to 3 teeth on the back (did it on my 400). you really don't want to mess inside the cluster!

good to hear

or you mixed up the coils if there are two single ones

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

I'm a bit confused what you are trying to say. do you have a picture or link to the part?

looks like you will have to get a starter pinion set. I've seen them on mikes xs I think. the left hand casing will have to come off, but you shouldn't need to drain the oil if you leave the bike on its mainstand. you will also need to get a special tool to break the rotor as the starter pinion is behind this. I am assuming that this is the sohc version drewpy

the service manual says it is 1st edition may 1981 from engine # 3F9-000101

if you can read german there are loads of 12R stuff in german web sites www.xs400.de you will find sig links to the correct site. they have the detuned version for the german domestic market. i have the '82 and '83 parts manual on cd along with most of the sohc stuff. i think pioneers x got the '83 off me and hosted it on his site!!

take out the valves and put them in a drill, use fine wet n dry and spin away dead easy. keep an eye on the vavle seats as there maybe a stepped seat and has to match the cyl head. always keep valves in the same place you took them from. ideal for alu engines is vapour blasting some companies can do the complete engine with no stripping involved. i had my head ceramic cleaned in a drum by steve smethhurst in salford uk. and its till as clean 2 years down the line.