drewpy

on my xs400 the level is measured with the dipstick removed and placed on top of the orifice without screwing in, that is where the meaurement is taken! if you have overfilled and want to remove some oil, would it be easier to loosen the front oil filter housing and dump that and refit, then turn-over engine to re-prime?

cos it was revving higher for the same given speed!!! 360 sprogs should fit

just switch on your lights before you move off if your that worried!!

at first i went 43 rear sprocket (37 stock) and i could keep up with more modern bikes up to 80(even lifts the front end), but it supped fuel and would wear the engine out quicker, your choice. you can use the xs250 sprockets. to recap on european models from my parts book; xs250 front 15T rear 43T england and swiss models xs250 front 15T rear 41T france holland belguim models xs400 front 16T rear 37T 1 tooth on/off front = 3 teeth on/off rear

for chain longevity, try for a bigger front sprocket as a smaller rear will mean the chain has to run a steeper angle and wear quicker. i think i use a 102 link, but i buy whatever chain is cheap and cut with an angle grinder to suit using the link! check you have enough room for chain and sprocket first and don't use o ring as that's too fat to fit!

do you have to use indicators on the bike? junk them as the cafe racer style will look better

LOL

there's a company called re-dial in the uk who can repair re-face your dials

i agree, its called the flame front. as the fuel is ignitied and piston speed increases, the ignition has to start early to complete combustion. In the early days you had to retard the ignition (ie piston after TDC) just to get the buggers going (engine efficiencies/compression/shit fuel/etc)

just jesting I feel a fool every night, but the wife is starting to object

Brill..................iant

try motoward, granby's, govenors bridge in uk!

45 tooth sprocket will make the engine turn faster for the the same speed. on my sohc I went 1 tooth bigger on front = 3 less teeth on rear.

sorry but i don't have time to scan 150 pages of a haynes manual. i can scan the relevant section but my PSU has gone on my main PC ( on the missus laptop), so i'tl have to wait till i can fit a new one. I can do that for you later if you want?

you a were wolf?

looking at the hayes manual it looks like you have 3n6 or the later 4a2 model. changes were; larger fuel tank seat height reduced rearsets swingarm lengthened spring; revised rates front and rear stearing lock on ignition revised ignition coil rest were cosmetics

they are not fitted to the uk xs400's so i'd do it, there is a small diagram for the system in the haynes manual if your tempted to fix it! (page 138)

you can still get the filters, try bikebandit and motogrid first

no clutch switch fitted to the sohc xs400's. if you stall, just pull the clutch in and start the bugger, easier to find neutral then or slip the clutch till the thing bites.

the rubber will have hardened with age (bit like us really) best to soften by using a hair dryer and then taking the air cleaners off first then the crankbreather (hard one, brute force needed and leave to one side connected to the hoses) then the carb to air filter hoses.They are a sod sometimes and you need to wiggle them up and down and pull back at the same time. tilt the carbs up and down and pull back like the hoses and they should come out

what, you meant to write in a honda forum

nice one, thought we was getting a haynes russian translation at first. I like it when it says " remove item" then you spend an hour doing just that and the "harder" part becomes the doddle.

Shhhhhh!!....... Don't tell anyone...... I'm gonna go down on you.... ...And you're gonna love it........... ........But it's only going to be long enough to let you start enjoying it........ ....Then I'm gonna come back up again and fuck you big time..... Lots of love, Petrol prices xx

i assume its on a screw adjustment which means its alloy and you have gone past the threads there for cross threading when you screwed it back! if it uses a stepped system, just keep turning the same way and it will go back to slack. i don't know the dragstar but most systems are the same

mechanical works by bob weights spinning outwards with centrifugal force and pushing the rear points plate around to advance the ignition as the motor increases with speed. vaccuum works the same way but uses the intake manifold to move the plate, as when the engine speed increases it draws more vacuum thus moving the plate more. when i say points they could also be conactless using hall effect or magnetic triggers. on fully electronic systems the advance is "mapped" into the rev range to provide differing curves for each gear and revs.