drewpy

try NRP in manchester for your carb diaphrams

if your kick start isn't working, than I assume the clutch is slipping as(I have mentioned in another thread) you need the clutch to grip for the kick to work. there should be 2-3mm play at the bar lever and to adjust the clutch, take out the black plug and unlock the nut. screw in the philips screw head till it just touches resistance then back off 1/4 turn (anticlock wise) lock it off using the nut. you should have full clutch operation and be able to kick start drewps

yeah, its a bucket for photos

if you are having problems with the circip (snapring?) I normally get a rebuild kit first as it conatins a spare boot which the circlip holds. the old boot is ripped out so you can see the circlip! normally you need extra long circlip pliers but i have used a long nail to at least move the clip and then "flick" one side up (via the hole in the circlip) and do the same with the other. sometimes its good to soak in wd40 or some other releasing oil before hand drewps

jesta

richie enjoy your stay

">" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"> awesome stop animation

I'd check you have brakes shoes first, they'll need cleaning out anyways. normaly after adjusting the pedal height, you adjust the nut on the end of the brake rod, and not the lever. The lever normally has a dot punched on it to correspond with a dot on the pivot shaft into the drum. drewps

there are a few wires in my headlight that don't do anything. I think Its a generic loom to cover all the countries. if its a feed make sure its isolated and try the electrics, you'll soon se what doesn't work drewps

if its not been run for a while, the oil control ring can gum up letting oil get past into the cylinder

fork off

Whale Oil Beef Hooked

that's assuming they have filters as some folks "lose" them. the inline filters are usually paper so can filter out that brown Talc type rust you get from uk petrol stations drewps

I am looking for a bmw tank to fit the ATE undertank M/Cyl i just want the base so i have a base (sic!) to work from and I've decided to build the top half. I'll enrole in night school somewhere near Manchester to access tools. drewps

I did it on my xs400. you need to dremel (with the sanding drum bit) the middle of the part that the wire runs in. then pull out the old wire. you will see a steel skewer where you will insert the new wire , but you need to use 5min epoxy before you insert and finish off with expoy over the bit you dremeled out!! got this from the xs1100 site but can't find it now they updated the site found it

thanks for the update drewps

according to this site its a DT 200 RB, 1991, engine code 3BN so I'm not sure of the 124cc on the bore but 3mb00 is a TZR125 here the bottom numbers are 1st gear, neutral, 2nd gear, etc etc

low float height gives this effect, try looking at this site as it explains carbs and different probs drewps

not quite sue what you are saying Merv

yep, i run BT45's with tubes

2A2 is def not tubeless, you are running the risk of tyres running off the rim as the wheel edge is different. Its ok for them to say see if it holds air, but that's not the full picture!! I don't want to put; "told you it was tubed" on your head stone (melodramatic, but couldn't resist) drewps

checked my manuals xs400 sg (3F9), SH (4r4), sj (14v) were tubeless all other models tubed

">" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"> Loved the line about Dr Seuss

Hi, I have an XS400 and its only running on 2 cylinders. What shall I do? drewps