drewpy

I work in Lax autolease and the best value cars are skodas. Octavia esate springs to mind. still a VW without the badge IMHO

your battery does sound like its on its last legs. this will affect the ignition and starting. the way you describe the non start with electric as opposed with the kick also points in that direction. can you borrow a spare battery? I had bad running last year and a 2 month old battery had given up one of its plates, i thought it were my charging at first. you could invest in an AGM battery, they are smaller(use colsed cell foam to pack out) but last ages and are sealed!! as a test connect up a car battery with the old battery in place (using jump leads) and see what happens drewps

aye, but they usually can't be arsed, too much work

come on eileen come on eileen come ooonn eileen do ra do ra do ra ayyyyyyy to the forum hope you enjoyed the dexy's tune

bloody great!!

to the forum I loiks the fz 's happy biking as far as screens are concerned I'm sure there's a few in the online racing shops or ebay!

thought somebody might

I've amended the "how to" reflecting the new layout

pretty quiet at stafford today. OT came on his 125 and remembered his money this time lovely (and cold) day and there was about 5 of us in the end. got me a few bits N Bobs drewps

try it here http://www.newgrounds.com/portal/view/513760

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All the power of the Shadow Prime Minister liesat your command, with this great click-and-speak site http://www.speechbreaker.co.uk

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i'm not sure it will fit the "standard" type frame ( 1L9, 2A2) as the custom bikes had a bigger rake and different frame at the rear. have you tried SITO exhausts? if you need down pipes, my friend had a set made for £60 in blighty (and in stainless)

I assume you have the contactless ignition then as they have different size. It is nerve racking to do your own engine, and I'm no mechanic. I just follow the manual and observe the torque settings and follow the procedures. if you find you can't measure something, take it round to your friendly engineering shop and they should have an opinion (mine was great) people can't resist helping sometimes especially when you have made the effort in the first place!! drewps

sorted your vids DDT

meanwhile , back on the ranch......... <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

sorry black; we are going saturday as Man City are playing sunday weather forcast is SUNNY!!

I don't have any spare covers but there are some on ebay UK the tools for changing the seals are a spring compressor ( not a car one as its too narrow to go over the cyl head) and torque wrench. you can make a compressor with a G-cramp welding a castlated bit of pipe to take out the collets like this you will need to follow the haynes manual as it gives you how to progressivly undo the head bolts to prevent warpage. I'm going to have to do mine as up.yours spotted smoke from my left side ( on a 1000 mile rebuilt engine) its a simple procedure and you need patcience and don't force anything. All i used was the haynes book to do it! drewps

just keep the same bore as the 400, unless going dual disk, then you would need a larger bore Master cyl. TBH any bike master cyl will work as all it does is push fluid pressure to the brake pistons, just in different amounts depending how many pistons need pushing hope that helps drewps

I wish I had more time-weather-bikes-money etc etc looks great there!! drewps

you need to get the brakes checked

could put pedals on 350lc's as well

to the forum. ditto the ditto on the avatar!!