drewpy

standard pilot and 135 mains

well i done a few more stuff this weekend... I stick welded some 8mm brackets for padock stand brackets will finish when dry build complete and was thinking outside the box and decided to mount my ignition switch where the starter motor went. so i amd cutting out the alternator side panel to fit a 28mm modded washer and have gutted the starter motor and modded that so i can fit the marine ignition switch inside along with connections

gs360 have a look at the stcky in this sections as there are manuals which cover the range 250, 360 and 400 models spark is bp-6es, one of the small differences in the model range drewps

always sit on it was 3 years ago and they are local to me, must have put them in another job! like all other stuff, prep is the key.

no 15 in the fiche try www.bikebandit.com

likes them

zincing cost £100!! i think mine cost a £5 about 20 items!! ( 3 years ago though at RS chrome) they've been around for a while and advertise in CMM but I hav'nt used them. PJ1 is good, but not that good. i did look into painting stuff , but the vendors said for longevity get 'em plated!

that something is located under the frame of the top spine under the rear of the tank ( in front of the battery) hopefully you can see the branch of the loom where it was! I am also assuming its the 2A2 model

joe, and good luck

I put some masking tape with sponge on the frame rails, engines go in/out from right hand side i think the rd aircooled had a supplier but did a search and couldn't find it! why don't you use a casswel kit and do it yourself? drewps

tons of spares and info in the USA and ebay, very popular bike!

rpm's = 1200 2.5 turns from LIGHT bottoming out. its an air srcew, so screw in richens, out weakens ( well it does on mine!!)

audilvr which counry are you from, no good me giving suppliers from different part of the world

i've used 10/40 before and the motor didn't like it. that's why i went with 20/50 semi synth. i've used the bike for 3 years now and there's no wear in the bore or camshaft. yamaha recommend 20/40 but that's impossible to get over here in blighty. your right about using mineral oil in a newly built engine. i used duckams and thrashed it for 40 miles to bed in the bores etc. then used the 20/50, tried 10/40 and back to 20/50! when i rebuilt my bike i used assembly oil which is like treacle and sticks to surfaces. i used this because it was a while till i was able to fire it up and it gave it the best possible protection. i never used drab olive as i bought new bolts which were already done plus stainless throughout the rest of the bike. drewps

yea, looks a different bracket and rear M/C, poss off an xs750! the xs400 M/c have their brackets in a diferent position

if memory serves, that cut blue wire on the left hand switch pikkie, is a feed for the main beam headlamp via the LH switch. it might also power the horn!

no its OG I like sending up either him or Merv! like to keep them on their toes ya know!!

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don't use steel wool on aluminum, the flecks bed into the soft alloy and then rust. it looks bloody awful that way ACF50 is good rust inhibitor

tried citizens advice?

enjoy, i didn't ( coz I was rubbish) http://www.kongregate.com/games/HotAirRaccoon/endless-migration

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Your wife decides to go out with her friends drinking and dancing.... You're okay with it, because you get to watch sports and play on the Internet all night... You hear her stumble into bed around 4 and laugh knowing she's going to have a monster hangover.... You wake up the next morning and go outside to the family Volvo, which she used last night.... You sigh in relief because it's all in one piece.... You circle the car looking for dents and find none.... But .... Wait... Wait just a damn minute...