drewpy

just about to say that!

you don't need to undo the cover. pop off the rubber bung on there and you will see a 10mm nut and screw slot. get a box spanner and slacken off the nut, with the screw driver through the box spanner lightly tighten,then back off 1/4 turn. holding the driver tighten the nut so it don't move. replace the bung slack at the clutch lever = 5mm drew

no probs.

http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_postcard_virus.htm

wondered who was poking? to the YOC

a picture of the tent would be useful Jim and the link don't work!!

I'd say you need to take off both carbs and strip them down. get the manual in the sticky as it will show the different parts in the carbs. clean the outside first, then strip 1 carb at a time, and clean using carb cleaner and compressed air. strip down the brass parts and make sure you blow all orifices with air and cleaner. all it takes is a little specs to cause problems. run carb cleaner through all the carb galleries. its not too hard except for undoing the cheese head screws on the carbs!! use an impact driver if you have to ( but carefully) you can do this in an evening. id also fit an inline fuel filter in case there is crud in the fuel tank.

you've woken up from your hibernation OT? nice to see you again

that's been on ebay for a while

dusty try here for codes; http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp http://www.dropbears.com/m/models/yamaha/modelcodes.htm

shit in the right carb, try spraying easy start in the carb and see if it fires ( or dump some fuel into the cylinder)

try and steal/beg/borrow another battery of good provenance and see if that helps. i had my bike get slower and slower comming from a rainy long ride and switching off my head lamp helped. turns out it wasn't charging ( 1 month old battery) a new quality battery (yuasa) cured it! drewps

this has been done to death on this forum you either have a dirty carb pilot system or an air leak on the inlet stubs

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wurth progrssive front springs and new fork seals of course hagon rear shocks, the business

standard pilot and 135 mains

well i done a few more stuff this weekend... I stick welded some 8mm brackets for padock stand brackets will finish when dry build complete and was thinking outside the box and decided to mount my ignition switch where the starter motor went. so i amd cutting out the alternator side panel to fit a 28mm modded washer and have gutted the starter motor and modded that so i can fit the marine ignition switch inside along with connections

gs360 have a look at the stcky in this sections as there are manuals which cover the range 250, 360 and 400 models spark is bp-6es, one of the small differences in the model range drewps

always sit on it was 3 years ago and they are local to me, must have put them in another job! like all other stuff, prep is the key.

no 15 in the fiche try www.bikebandit.com

likes them