drewpy

easy to google http://www.agriandgarden.com/valve-grinding-paste.html?gclid=CLGqz73S2LsCFUzHtAodvmAAfQ 1) clean the valves in situ with brass brush in drill 2) take out valves 3) you can also clean valves in drill if dirty, but watch your not reducing the valve stem width 4) grind in valves to seal with linky posted above

I thought it was just showing a photo, bloody 'ell Grouch!

Bob Wright has just emailed me to say the final parts are on their way, yippee have the frame and fork legs at the local TIG welder to make a better job than me. Get the frame to the powder coaters next week and then should be on the final build

leave the valves in and get a brass wire attachment for the drill and decoke the heads. the vales need to be out to check the seal between valve and head (pock marks, bits missing) otherwise you can lap the valves in with grinding paste. you can get a kit of two types of paste and a little suction cup on a stick to spin the valve around to grind them to the head. don't forget to use your cardboard to put the vales back in the same order.

chill factor-e roof has blown off twice now, so its not surprising bikes get blown over

got family in Capetown, in fact 1 works for cape fruit export

brake fluid is supposed to be good at gasket removing too according to classic bike mag

when i rebuilt the xs I put mineral oil in and rode like I stole it. dropped the oil after 20 miles and filled with semi-synth. this theory is the bores get bedded in and this worked really well. the only caveat was that i reused the good parts so essentially, they had their "edges" knocked off and I could do that. with a totally brand new bike, you got all that broken off shite lurking in the gearbox etc and cane-ing it won't do the bike much good recirculating it around the engine. I'd drop the oil and put new in and then think about giving it some

what was the question?

probably, you have to understand that its a 600cc engine in a 400cc frame. very tight for room

get the green solid tyres, no punctures

i would have taken off the large nut on the adapter and kept the thing whole. But that's academic now. remove all electrics first (including that neutral wire) and alternator/starter wires

I'd keep it intact as you disturb the seals otherwise

not from the area, but it's a legendary event and now the council want to ban it FFS register your complaint here http://present.brighton-hove.gov.uk/mgEPetitionDisplay.aspx?ID=410&RPID=11175561&HPID=11175561

wow, nice one/ Look forward to seeing some more on this and the openface with gigs. Got a NOS goggles despite its glass (laminated I hope) should be up for some longer touring escapes then?

depends, the Rd xs650/400's go regularly and I'm sure Merv has a stash or get them from ebay

don't hold your breath, still waiting for the 2014 calendar

JAn sales will start soon and maybe you'll get some xmas money off someone!

that's just a gasket kit. a rebuild kit has all the oil seals in as well

rebuild kits? tell me more

result

instead of running the bike, which unless it really hot, will promote moisture. the best thing to do is get a little oil heater and stick it under the bike over winter. Keeps the moisture out as it warms the bike up and keeps it that way.

just seen "Charge" about the first GPX electric bikes and team czycs. the first year they did 99mph the second year 133 mph the biggest exponent was an eccentric brit called Cedric Lynch who formed a company based on his electric motor and then the company sacked him

take the plastics off! yes you'll shear more bolts, but then you can get to weld a nut over the flush bolts and cool a little bit, then undo. done it loads of times no issues