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drewpy
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Everything posted by drewpy
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makes a change for us TBH
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A bit hard now and they are commanding ££'s, theres a rough one one ebay for £995 ATM and needs the lot doing. Just done a calculation and spent £1562.12 so far, including purchase price. That doesn't sound too bad
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its the down pipe, and I assume the funnel catches the moving air, warms up around the down pipe and comes out of that end. To where it goes from there, who knows?
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very nice, should do you well lets have a picky of the new bikini
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you can use grease to hold the swarf in on the inserts. BTW you need to use the special drill bit with helicoils etc as they are a special size, they usually come with the kit
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Happy New Year, alcohol free for me but still had a good one
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just found this on the Swedish site its a heater for the colder months, keep the cockles warm
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here's another one for the ladies
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the other xs?
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don't forget your cheapo camera to record the mishaps ride
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I used an oldie called wellseal, they used them on the brit iron. you apply with a fine brush either side and let dry, no squelching out between cases as the other sealants do
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sorry Tommy, nothing like what i'm after. Its all in the numbers mate I've tried every combination of my numbers into google and germany/usa have them but at over £100 ouch!
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Oh a clarinet player eh?
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buy it off him Tommy, you need a project
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with this "new" engine I got, Yamaha decided to upgrade their engine to digital ignitions which are not compatible with the FZ system. Hence I am after an Ignitor marked tid-14-78 3km-01 I can also use the tid-14-79 3lt-00 as I have been assured that that will work too. Anyone got one for cheap please? any working alternatives would be nice too eg fzr600!
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https://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/index.php?c=03860a9239e3aa1a8b94be6f5796b331&preview=6&dest=prod&p=400&pid=35567310%20S they're from 2006 so you may not find much else online
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easy to google http://www.agriandgarden.com/valve-grinding-paste.html?gclid=CLGqz73S2LsCFUzHtAodvmAAfQ 1) clean the valves in situ with brass brush in drill 2) take out valves 3) you can also clean valves in drill if dirty, but watch your not reducing the valve stem width 4) grind in valves to seal with linky posted above
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I thought it was just showing a photo, bloody 'ell Grouch!
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Bob Wright has just emailed me to say the final parts are on their way, yippee have the frame and fork legs at the local TIG welder to make a better job than me. Get the frame to the powder coaters next week and then should be on the final build
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leave the valves in and get a brass wire attachment for the drill and decoke the heads. the vales need to be out to check the seal between valve and head (pock marks, bits missing) otherwise you can lap the valves in with grinding paste. you can get a kit of two types of paste and a little suction cup on a stick to spin the valve around to grind them to the head. don't forget to use your cardboard to put the vales back in the same order.
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chill factor-e roof has blown off twice now, so its not surprising bikes get blown over
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got family in Capetown, in fact 1 works for cape fruit export
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brake fluid is supposed to be good at gasket removing too according to classic bike mag
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when i rebuilt the xs I put mineral oil in and rode like I stole it. dropped the oil after 20 miles and filled with semi-synth. this theory is the bores get bedded in and this worked really well. the only caveat was that i reused the good parts so essentially, they had their "edges" knocked off and I could do that. with a totally brand new bike, you got all that broken off shite lurking in the gearbox etc and cane-ing it won't do the bike much good recirculating it around the engine. I'd drop the oil and put new in and then think about giving it some
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what was the question?
