nayruf

Hi kirriePete and Neversaydie are both right, do not use motor oil that is for motorcars as the friction modifiers in the oil can cause problems for the bikes wet clutch. Halfords do sell suitable motorcycle engine oils and oil filters, they did for my Diversion 900 As for the sump plug seal I would try to re-use the old one, but I would make a note of its size and the material it was made from, then if the worst comes to the worst and it leaks then it should only drip slightly till you can get a replacement, you can then go and buy a new one, You will also then know what size and material to get. If the sump plug seal is an 'O ring' then be sure to get a replacement that is made from a material that will be able to withstand engine oils, such as Perfluorocarbon,Fluorocarbon or Nitrile, Normal rubber and Elastomers such as Ethylenepropylene are not suitable. (I used to work with O rings and O ring materials), Alternatively any Yamaha shop will know the part number for the sump plug seal so you could get them to order one and wait till it comes to do the oil change. To replace the sump plug seal after you have changed the oil you can drain the oil into a clean container the oil should be ok to put it back into the bike providing it stays clean. In the past I have re-used copper crush washers, all I have done is heated the washer under a flame to re-anneal the metal. The best way of learning is to have a go, When you refit the sump plug screw it in as far as you can by hand do not use a wrench/spanner until you are sure that the plug is not ‘cross threaded’, I live near to Stamford so if you get really stuck I don’t mind having a look.

The chain on my little bike is not expensive nor are the sprockets, all I do is rub the chain down with a paraffin or kerosene soaked rag once in a while depending on miles covered about 100 miles normally, I then slack the chain off, oil it with what ever oil I have at hand. At the moment I use chainsaw chain oil as I have some spare I then adjust the chain to give me about 25 mm of slack. To check that the chain does not pull too tight I sit on the bike to compress the suspension and then check that the chain does not bind up. Also if the chain looks particularly dry and I have ridden in the rain or off road, then I will give it a rub down and a re-oil Please be very careful because if your fingers get caught in the chain and get dragged around the sprocket it F@@KIN hurts as a friend of mine found out when oiling his Maico chain.

Hi Col68 As a last roll of the dice you could take a plaster cast of another side panel from another DT, then you could use that cast as a die to make a fiberglass one using fast a fast glass kit, you will have to use some release compound so the finished fiberglass casting will come free from the mould, I have made some other plastic bits and bobs like this, I have done this before to make model boat hulls. (http://www.cstsales.com/tutorials/fiberglass_mold.pdf) Just found these!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEFT-SIDE-COVER-1975-YAMAHA-DT175-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e63dbd997QQitemZ130524371351QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Yamaha-DT100-DT175-Side-Cover-LR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem415a086341QQitemZ280683373377QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-1974-76-DT175-Side-Cover-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b8718657QQitemZ170598172247QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Hi Col68 You could try () they have supplied me with some hard to get DT twinshock parts in the past,

Hi Its a DT 400 (twin shock Enduro) I have a DT 175, I would love to buy it, but I am a poor pensioner, You should keep it as they are quite rare,

Abuckler Hi I like the idea, your point about sliders increasing damage by localising the impact is why I don’t have sliders (crash bungs) on my FJR, the fixing points on my bike would be on the same mounts as the engine so any impact could bend the frame, Spring loading the sliders could help, I think the idea of crash bungs is to lessen the damage if the bike was to fall over or have a low speed tumble, fast speed crashes the damage is made worse because of the impact of whatever the bike has slid into possibly ripping at the crash bungs, you might want to consider allowing the crash bung to be sprung both against the bike and also sprung when pulled from the bike, Do you have a local bike race school or stunting team that could try your bungs out, Hope it works for you

Hi Chris My 1G1 is the same, But because all the locks match and the same key fits them I just link the key to the X bar on the handle bar in case the key bounces out, I have with my last DT 1G1 stripped the lock right down to the plastic plate with the contact rivets, if I could find another lock with a less worn key hole I might try to swap around the internal mechanisms to come up with a less worn lock and retain the same key, I don’t want to mess up the originality of the locks so I will only try it when I get more bottle or when the lock finally gives up and I am left with no choice, if you find a reliable fix please post it, If I find a way out will also post it, Nayruf

Hi yamaha33 Providing the motor oil that you use meets or exceeds the relevant standard and grade stated in the bikes hand book (JASO, API, SL, ACEA,) And the oil used is listed as being suitable for motorcycles with a wet clutch, i.e. not a generic motor oil as used in motorcars, Then any oil should be ok to use, I personally try not to mix oils from different brands in the same engine and I would not mix synthetics semi-synthetics and mineral oils together, You will probably find that the cheaper oil will perform just as well as the expensive oil but the cheaper oil will loose its lubricating/cooling/cleaning efficiency faster than the expensive oil. If I change oil brand to another then I would change the filter also. Try to do internet searches for oil comparability guides such as this one (http://www.bullenger.no/admin/common/getImg2.asp?Fileid=1882

Hi just to add to the consensus of opinion, I had a 900 Diversion with a similar problem on a rear BT020, I went for the repair and had no problems running the tyre. If a reputable tyre shop will do a repair then I would allow them to do it as they are unlikely to risk the bad rep, when they could sell you a tyre nayruf

I think it looks like this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-GSX550-Front-Brake-Master-Cylinder-/300454948170?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45f482ad4a

Hi Buckskin Try this link, its a UK supplier, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT250-DT400-DT250MX-DT400MX-DT-FLYWHEEL-PULLER-/230606080567?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35b1318a37 hope this helps

Hi Weegiboy Try Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine issue no 251 sept 2008 page 71: https://classicissues.com/bidetail.asp?feature=yammagamma&year=%25&title=CMM&AutoNo=1002226 In it is a 3 page feature: Looks like it is a fairly frequent combination/modification.

Hi The manual I use is Haynes (ISBN 0 85696 210 4) it lists 93cc through to 171cc AT CT and DT, The points gap stated is 0.012~0.015"(0.3~0.4 mm). When I adjust the points on my DT, I hold the advance retard mechanism to full advance via the small hole in the advance weight arm. The points should open at 0.07” BTDC (1.8mm). Be sure that there is no path to earth for the wire to the points, if there is it will not spark. Hope this is the answer you are looking for.

Hi Dirty Dt I have an Akito trouser and Jacket set they are ok for warmth, the impact protection looks to be ok too (zip together), but even although the are sold as water proof they have leaked from the first day, I have also brought some of the Kevlar jeans (Draggin Jeans) No impact or weather protection, I would not like to test the ‘Draggin’ protection but they are ok in the summer, I am also a short arse so I had to turn up the legs ‘mom would be proud’ So I now live with the Akito set in the winter with a full length condom suit for heavy rain, So I just buy what suits my pocket best and I try to buy old out of style gear for the best price,

Hi tez73 When you say the bike is ‘over-revving’ If you mean as soon as you start the bike it goes towards full revs, Check that you have fitted the throttle slide into the carburettor the right way round,If the carburettor is similar on my DT then it is possible to get it in back to front and as a result the slide is pinned half open. Might help

Hi bookem The piston does not need to descend below the intake port, the fuel air mix travels into the crank case via the ports cut into the side of the piston. When the piston ascends up the cylinder bore it closes off the intake path and a suction is created in the crank case this draws the fuel/air through the piston ports, at least this is how I understand it, http://www.whitedoglubes.com/2strokeengines.htm check out this web site it has good description of how it works.

Hi I live near Grantham so I would try RP motorsport Unit 32 London Road Industrial Estate Grantham NG31 6HP 01476 565665 Hope it is not too far to travel

Hi Blackhat250 I had a silver tanked 1G1 DT 175 on a 1978 S plate this bike had a light blue/dark blue combination decal, I now have another 1G1 DT 175 1977 R plate with a white tank and red decals both these tanks have the same dimensions, I think this bike was the last twin shock version, http://motorcyclepictureoftheday.blogspot.com/2009/05/yamaha-dt175-restoration-amazing-before.html (silver style) http://www.smiffy.com/gary/1G1.htm (white/red stripe style) These both have the same tank shape Back in the early 80's I also had a play with another type of DT 175 that had a different shaped tank, this tank was red like the one in your picture the shape difference was very subtle, the the bike was also a N reg 1974 bike, this bike had a swing arm which was not braced/a different fuel tank cap/different seat latch and a second spark plug hole that could be used to fit a different plug often one that would run at a different temp, http://www.americanlisted.com/idaho_12/motorcycles_10/1975_yamaha_dt175_enduro_1100_heyburn_13785563.html this bike has a more rounded tank shape, although I think the tank will fit both frames, I think the later 1978 DT was a CT1 / cross over model,and the earlier white black decals would be too big or would not fit the later tank.

If you had of took the rope/wire and they were holding it you might of pulled their arms off

Hi Your request makes me unsure how to answer for the best because the tone of the question leaves me thinking that you might not have the mechanical skills/tools needed to re-fit the wheel, so sorry if you are a mechanical genius and I am talking out of my arse. I would get my self a manual and fully read the section on the removal and re-fit of the wheels, they are about 19 quid for a Haynes. Assuming that you put all the components back in the same order/positions, ie any spacers correctly fitted so that the rear wheel sprocket is in direct line with the gearbox sprocket and the chain runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line, I adjust my chain on my DT by tightening the chain adjusters equally so that there is a total of 20 to 30 mm deflection up and down from the chains centre on the bottom run 10 to 15 mm each way, I then sit on the bike and allow for my body weight to ensure that the chain does not get too tight or remains too slack, As a last check once the axle is fully tight look along the chain to ensure that it runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line. A big thing not to forget Is to remember to tighten the brake torque arm because it will need to be loose to allow for the chain to be correctly tensioned, When it comes to the brake adjustment I allow about 30 to 40 mm free pedal travel before the brake shoes fully grip the drum, and when the brake is fully applied I ensure that the brake arm is at 90 degrees to the line of pull, so that the full length of the operating arm can apply maximum torque. Please though do get a manual and do use it to ensure that the wheel is fitted correctly, Or bite the bullet and once you have fitted the wheel go straight to the nearest friendly bike shop and ask them to give it a quick look see, Hope this helps

Hi I have currently ride a shaft driven bike and my previous bike was also a shaftie, All I can say is when I compare a chain driven bike to a shaft driven bike, I have noticed very little difference in the way they ride, so I would wait till the roads are clear and enjoy riding it, The plus side for me is that after a ride all I do is wash the bike down and put it away, No chain to adjust and no chain oil to clean up,

Hi this happened to my XJ 900 also, I found out that the float switch/sender in the tank had become worn on its spindle, this made the float contact point miss its pick up preventing the sender/switch from giving a reading. I had to buy a new sender unit and this fixed the fault, the Yamaha shop told me that this was not an uncommon problem, You could prove that the sender has stopped working by making a connection between the feed wire and the return wire to the sender, if the rest of the system is working correctly then the gauge should read full, hope this helps

I need to paint my oil tank too, I was lucky enough to be able to find a new viewer and seal, so it is sitting very safe waiting for the big event, However before I was able to get the replacement one, I was thinking of ways to get around the problem, I thought of warming the tank in some hot water to soften the seal then try to tease it out with a wooden spatula, If that did not work I thought of wrapping some thin cord around the seal on the outside underneath the lip of the seal if I wrapped enough around the lip I figure it would lift the lip off the tank, then with some very careful ‘masking off’ I was going to try to spray under the lip far enough to make a reasonable finish allowing the lip to relax back into shape after and cover up any of the poorer paint finish. And my last fantasy was to find a plastic or cardboard tube with a smaller diameter than the lip of the seal, than use the tube to hold the lip up and away from the tank.then paint round it as stated earlier. Alternatively E-mail this guy, he specialises in renovating old bikes especially Yamaha’s, I bet he will of removed and fitted a few of these. [email protected]

Hi I Have a 1G1 Dt 175 My original seat needs recovering, the base and foam seem ok, I ordered a new complete seat from a Thailand E-bay shop the seat I got back was shorter than my original, but it still fitted the hinges and lock location, so I use it till I get mine covered. the difference is in the seat base. my original seat has a factory fitted extension piece welded to it must of been like this from new, I guess that western Butts are larger than eastern butts so for the western market the seats were made bigger, I know this does not help but it explains why the shop thinks it has sent the right seat cover, and the cover does not fit.

try this place for the points, don't buy the lot, leave some for the rest of us http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-C-POINTS-443-81321-10-/390206459681?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5ada1e0f21 this place for the condenser http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-DT-175-IGNITION-CONDENSER-CONDENSOR-/220642219320?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item335f4d1538 44-81321-10-00 points 277-81326-90-00 condenser My bike is a 175 dt twinshock 1977 ( 1G1 ) I think these are the part numbers . I have in the past wired in a motorcar condenser and located it outside the mag, its the type of trick trials riders used to do so they could change out a duff condenser with out taking the mag off