wild foamy

Just had a look in the garage and have seen that the original carb goes over the manifold on the reed block and is held in place by a jubilee clip. so would the second item (with the rubber boot) work?

Ah i understand now thing is i am trying to get my DT50 to hit atleast 50mph but still have enough power left to get up hills and tthe like whilst laden with a bit if luggage (prepping for my ireland tour, lol) i can go for a 13t sprocket on the front (currently running 12t) and a 44t on the back (currently a 45t) and will be adding a Polini 65cc kit to help it pull to top gear, with the stock 50cc barrell it will pull to about 40mph, but if i put a big bore kit on i want to add a bigger carb to let it breathe better and get best results from it. is there a place i can get a carb that will fit but not at a rediculous price? EDIT: found the same item being sold by a differente seller, this features a rubber boot/adaptor thingy to go on the carbs' internal manifold and connect it to the reed blocks' internal... erm... manifold? O.o http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCOOTERS-RACING-CARB...%3A1|240%3A1318 as you can see im new to all this engine and carb lark... all a learning curve though

is that not a reed block on the underside of the carb?, i've been and had a look at my DT carb and it does look very similar... in regards to removing the autolube then if that is the case i will find a different carb which does not require the autolube to be removed, purely because i am lazy and like the conveniance of not needing to ready-mix the oil have emailed the seller and am awaiting a response EDIT: my jets are around 80-90 sized as i am running a bigone exhaust and K&N style air filter and the mixture is now just about right (not exactly sure on size though)

hi everyone. am looking to upgrade the carb on my DT50MX, i think the original is 14/16mm or something like that but most 50cc performance carbs are 21mm. so i got looking on ebay and came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OKO-21mm-RACING-CARB...%3A1|240%3A1318 would this work with my DT50MX? regards Steve P.S. i am already running a bigone expansion pipe and exhaust and plan to add a Polini 65cc kit, i understand re-jetting will be required and i am happy to do that

ive got one mate coming with me for deffo, also got a little top-box which my dad gave me (apparently it came off a mobility scooter we had years ago) just need to fit a bracket and bolt it to the luggage rack on the back of the bike. anyone know if tail packs can be mounted on pillion seats? i want to go NOW!!!!...

have taken it out on a spin recently and it was fine, all up and down the box no problem, methink it didnt like the way i was changing gears, i used to syncronise it all so i let off the throttle as i pulled the clutch in and lifted the lever at the same time, now i drop the throttle and pull the clutch in, wait until i have lifted the gear lever to engage the gear and then returned it to the middle position before i let the clutch back in and apply the power. dont know whats happened there then... nevertheless, will pull it out and have a look-see, i dont want to have to stick a whole new lump in as then i have problems with the numbers not matching up on the engine/frame and replacement engines are not easy to find, only ones i have seen are usually incomplete and shagged out

okay, so assuming i get myself a haynes manual and get the bike apart okay, would i be able to order a new drum and/or selector forks through my local yamaha dealer? (Probike)

okay, well im taking the bike off the road and will probably pull the whole engine/transmission assembly out of the bike frame so i can get a good idea of what condition the seals e.t.c are in. how do i split the cases? Whilst i'm at it i may aswell do a complete overhaul of the entire bike, im talking new brake shoes, new tyres, new wheel bearings, possibly even a big bore to help cope with the gearing i've put on it (does struggle a bit uphill)

clutch was adjusted when i put new levers on it so that seems fine in regard to the detent spring where can i find a new one?, the bike is going for its MOT next week and i would ideally like to get it sorted out as soon as i can. ProBike will probably take 3 weeks to get one in, or longer... also, is there a replacement drum or selector on the market that would fit it? i will pull the side off the gearbox in the morning and have a look-see

hi everyone. over the last few weeks i have been riding my 1990 DT50MX and occasionally (usually in 3rd/4th gear) when changing up it will just not go into gear but instead stick in a neutral sort of state (disconnected from the final drive, engine free-revving) usually until i repeat the process where it will usually skip the gear altogether. its getting more frequent, on my ride home from work today it did it 3 times (over about 5 miles) and often when i go to park up it wont select neutral and goes straight to 2nd. whats the problem? i dont want to leave it to get any worse as it will no doubt cost me in the long term (i.e. new gearbox)

could do with a bit of that right now... the manager at my new job is an asshole, talks shite, pisses off all the other employees and doesnt give a shite. thankfully its only an Xmas job...

this biking lark is great, if someone p***es me off i go and shut myself in the garage with the radio on and work on my bike, i dont even own an Xbox anymore and the only times i watch TV or go on the internet is in the evenings. t'is a very manly thing, getting dirty working on a motorbike... no offence to Goth... or an other of the Womanly bikers... seems the little DT may have some gearbox issues though, which i want to sort out ASAP as i dont want it to get worse

im already saving up for some bags and stuff, anything imparticular i will need?. im planning a little "Tech 26 litre Topbox", a set of "Buffalo Getaway 58 litre expanding panniers",a "Buffalo tail pack" to go on the pillion seat between me and the top box and a "Buffalo 48 litre touring tankbag" to hang on the front. is that going to be enough luggage space? (i may also take a really big backpack but lower the straps so it rests on the seat behind me instead of putting all the weight on my shoulders, all in all looking at about 150 litre luggage capacity. will probs also buy a polaroid camera, take a few photos and write on the back of them and send them home as post cards i think that poor old yamaha will be dragging its ass a little bit...

what pitch is it? and how many links? e.g. my DT50 is 420 pitch, 112 link, so i can buy a length of 420 pitch chain and make as many chains as i want

yes indeedy!... will need new tyres soon though, may aswell do the brake shoes whilst im at it as ive no idea how long they have been on there ... just keeping my eye out for a nice tank bag, and one to go on the luggage rack at the back... maybe i could fabriate a rack to hold some paniers... hmm... time for more mods methink

hi everyone Here is my Yamaha DT50, ive stripped it down and re-painted it, added some mirrors that are easier on the eye, some hand guards and a few other little tidbits like a bigone exhaust and a K&N style filter (and rejetted the carb to compensate) overall i'm very pleased with it, for something that is older than me its probably in better condition so... here it is before ... and during strip-down Fuel tank resprayed Rear guard resprayed hand guards (and mirror) Tank protector (i couldn't resist... ) I'm pleased with the results, im still awaiting the arrival of my DT50 stickers to put on the tank and a new left switchgear but other than that it is ready to go - Steve EDIT: oops, wrong links , now fixed

hi everyone. ive had my 1990 DT50MX on the road for just about 4 weeks now, and was just wondering is there anything i can do to get more performance out of the tired old drum brakes (disk upgrades?) thanks and regards Steve

i got a DT50MX which have notoriously crap headlights from stock. mine came with this thingy on: http://www.motocrossmotorbikes.com/product...lid=m6b0s23p150 No problems with the original electronics and its pretty good output wise (although i had to use a 6v bulb to get it to work with my electric system) you may need a universal headlamp mounting kit to mount it though (i got mine from busters-accessories.co.uk) best of luck Steve

i use DID Chains on my yamaha, aslong as it is the same pitch and length as your old chain i wouldnt have thought it'd make any difference wether it came from ProBike or Italy Probike took about 3 weeks to get my rear sprocket in, although i did order a 45t one which is no doubt as rare as hens teeth

would do it right now if the weather was good, but need time to prep. plan is to spend a day in very little town/village i went to. with a rough guide looking something like this: get a ferry to Dublin (possibly from liverpool unless i can find a place closer) then to Arklow, Rosslare Harbour,Waterford, down to Cobh for a day and possibly spend a day in Cork aswell. would like to go to Bantry and Kenmare, if i have time i may go to Waterville on the very tip of the south/west coast before traveling to Limerick via the backroads (possibly stopping at Ballybunnion for a photoshoot and take in the fresh sea air) before slowly cruising my way back to Dublin i would very much like to blog the trip, although it may just be easier to write a little dairy, take photos and send postcards as im not sure if i would have internet access available to update the blog. will start a proper thread nearer the time thanks all

thanks for the supportive comments everyone, i've got a christmas job at Currys so im already saving for the trip which i was thinking of doing in May when it is a bit sunnier and i have left school (im still 16, lol)

i enver ride with my visor fully down unless i am flat out (40mph). anywere below 30 and the visor on my lid (BMW System 3) steams up quickly, at roundabouts or junctions where i need extra concentration or even just for getting around town i have my visor fully up for better vision, if it is raining or i dont need the visor fully up i will ride with the visor up on the first notch (just a crack at the bottom fo the helmet) to let some airflow in and stop my glasses/visor steaming up havent tried the anti-fog stuff, but apparently rubbing a potatoe (cut in half) on the inside of the visor also works because it leaves a layer of oil (well, starch which technically is a sugar) on the surface.

was thinking of doing it in intervals of around 50 miles, spending a day in each little town along the coast before, in total i would be covering about 400 - 500 miles. i did have a spreadsheet with everything worked out on my computer but i lost it when i went from Linux to Windows XP . the bike itself wont be tricked out much, im fitting some brushguards and probably up the sprockets to keep the revs down and make touring that much more enjoyable, is there anything else i should be considering for this bike? (keep in mind it has 6v electrics, so no heated grips here!)

hi everyone. ive been toying with a little thought for a while now, its quite a crazy idea but i'd like to see how it goes nonetheless... i'd like to go touring on my little Yammy DT50, which is a completely stupid idea but why not give it a try? its got a nice comfy seat, tough as nails and is cheap to run. anyway, was thinking Rep. Ireland as i've always wanted to go there and see the local heritage and landscape and ferries leave regularly from liverpool (that would be the longest haul, from Newbury to Liverpool) and then travel from Dublin, down along the eastern coast to Killarney, then cut back through ireland traveling inland toward Dublin i was thinking of spending about two weeks there, obviously i would take a little top box, possibly some panniers if i can get some to fit and a backpack with a few supplies but would rely on various local hotels and B&Bs' to keep me warm and dry, possibly even take a tent or something and really "rough it" at this point, please pick yourself up off the floor, stop laughing and let me know, would you think it even possible? it's still just a mildly pungent brainfart, but i'd quite like to try it... let me know what you think - Steve

i dont really need anything for high-speed spills as i never go above 30 unless i am travelling out of my hometown, at the time the bike was sat on a mates driveway so anything to keep a bit of the shock off the levers is good (i usually have the levers pointing downwards anyway as i find it more comfortable, so perhaps i will try it with them more upright) on recent inspection, it appears the left-hand switchgear also has a crack in the casing, so i'm cutting my losses and buying a new switchgear set anyway (the old one had a dodgey horn button, sticky indicators and looked a bit shabby) i want a bigger one now... looking for a nice DT250 to start restoring for when im 17