wild foamy

Blimey, that kawasaki looks nice... 4 cylinder two stroke?! ... if only i were a millionaire... *sigh*

i have many-a-time considered dousing this cursed jawa in petrol and setting fire to it, but now that ive got the brakes and hopefully the forks sorted, that would be silly. if worst comes to worst i will put a car battery in a topbox and run it from that and charge it every week

dont get me started on the power rangers again... i was the blue one and my mate on the yellow suzuki RMX50 was the yellow power ranger, everyone at school used to know us as "the power rangers!"

did you leave the choke on? just a thought...

nah never even heard of it. ive gone off drinking since making some homebrew cider... urgh... bad times

is there fuel getting into the engine (check the end of the spark plug and make sure it is wet with fuel) and also check for a spark

yes i have been using several, had a standard DC meter monitoring the battery voltage and a fancy auto-range multimeter checking the AC current from the genny to the regulator, think i was getting a very small voltage (talking 0.5 volt) of field charge but will check again when i am next over there, which will probably be sunday

what cheque book?, i live by how much change i find down the back of the sofa and the current price of petrol

possibly a dry solder joint?, could even be a case of something as simple as water in the electrics, i had a similar problem on my DT where none of the electrics would work (indicators, neutral light, e.t.c) but the engine would still run, it seems to have sorted itself out now ive been covering it up at night may be worth having a look at the connections on the ignition switch

i doubt the DT would make it :\ Barwell?, fancy taking a pillion passenger?

a mate of mine suggested running a wire from the positive terminal on the battery directly to the coil to manually energise it and create a field current to see if that makes it charge... would that work or am i just likely to end up laying on my back at the opposite end of the garden with no eyebrows? im heading over tomorrow bright and early to get to work on it, need to strip the forks down to get them rechromed (thanks JimR! ) and take the back brake off aswell so will give it a try EDIT: If it helps, here is a diagram of the alternator, regulator, rectifier and charge light relay

Heyup peeps! ive been to the Woodcote vintage rally for the weekend with my dad and saw one of these in the vintage bike section a CZ Cezeta, a.k.a "Torpedo", i think its kinda funky myself, may keep a lookout on ebay for one it even has a little trailer on the back, but unfortunately i was crewing a steam engine at the time and wasnt able to see the vintage bike parade in the arena also in the bike section was a CZ 477 it seems that the owner of this bike had the same problem that i did with the rear brake, the original rear brake cable being made of unobtanium. this particular bike had been modified by means of turning the brake cam around so that the keyway in the shaft would allow the brake arm to point upwards and allow the use of a pullrod there was also a nice array of Triumph trials bikes, a couple of BSA Bantams and various other rareities, all in all an enjoyable event

i got my DT50 to do 85 in october... ... it was in the back of the van coming back from trowbridge

Vaseline helps

f*ck... i've been rumbled

Congrats Goff... *sniffle*

Surely there is someone on here who knows a bit about electrics?!. ive now cleaned the slip rings and am getting a field current of 0.15amps and 2v @ 2000rpm from the regulator. maybe a diode?, how do i go about testing the alternator diodes?, or the diode in the rectifier? any ideas are welcome, i dont know what to check next

Thats awesome!, given me a few ideas about what to do with my old BMX Bolt your nugget ¬¬ They probably dont even make that anymore

working on the assumption that the stator is good (due to low resistance readings) im going to assume that it is the slip rings may need a clean, i've been doing a lot more digging on the 'net and found these two sites: Alternator testing Cleaning generator slip rings and brushes The first one outlines procedures for testing the stator windings and rotor, The second site contains info regarding cleaning the sliprings on an RV generator (considering the construction of an alternator im assuming the principal is the same) so, bit of wet and dry on the end of a stick should sort it out, watch this space ... i dont know why i joined the air force as a mechanic, i should have been a sparkie, i'd be great at that... kit out the chinooks with neons, alloys and the biggest soundsystem i could cram into the carge hold...

how much of that john smiths did you drink?

How much?!?!

i swear i saw Matti Griffin in there somehwere O.o

i changed the brushes so they are brand new and i can feel the springs compressing when i push the housing onto its mount on the alternator case. i didnt clean the slip ring when i did it though, perhaps this could be the problem? today i tried it again and was getting 1.0ohms of resistance through the stator windings, and at about 4000rpm managed to get 1 volt out of the rectifier

anybody?, any ideas would be helpfull, im at a dead end (not to mention my wits end... ¬¬) according to my workshop manual the small blocks and rotor are the "contactless ignition", so i doubt that has anything to do with it

Haha, seriously, pic looks nice