wild foamy

a mate of mine suggested running a wire from the positive terminal on the battery directly to the coil to manually energise it and create a field current to see if that makes it charge... would that work or am i just likely to end up laying on my back at the opposite end of the garden with no eyebrows? im heading over tomorrow bright and early to get to work on it, need to strip the forks down to get them rechromed (thanks JimR! ) and take the back brake off aswell so will give it a try EDIT: If it helps, here is a diagram of the alternator, regulator, rectifier and charge light relay

Heyup peeps! ive been to the Woodcote vintage rally for the weekend with my dad and saw one of these in the vintage bike section a CZ Cezeta, a.k.a "Torpedo", i think its kinda funky myself, may keep a lookout on ebay for one it even has a little trailer on the back, but unfortunately i was crewing a steam engine at the time and wasnt able to see the vintage bike parade in the arena also in the bike section was a CZ 477 it seems that the owner of this bike had the same problem that i did with the rear brake, the original rear brake cable being made of unobtanium. this particular bike had been modified by means of turning the brake cam around so that the keyway in the shaft would allow the brake arm to point upwards and allow the use of a pullrod there was also a nice array of Triumph trials bikes, a couple of BSA Bantams and various other rareities, all in all an enjoyable event

i got my DT50 to do 85 in october... ... it was in the back of the van coming back from trowbridge

Vaseline helps

f*ck... i've been rumbled

Congrats Goff... *sniffle*

Surely there is someone on here who knows a bit about electrics?!. ive now cleaned the slip rings and am getting a field current of 0.15amps and 2v @ 2000rpm from the regulator. maybe a diode?, how do i go about testing the alternator diodes?, or the diode in the rectifier? any ideas are welcome, i dont know what to check next

Thats awesome!, given me a few ideas about what to do with my old BMX Bolt your nugget ¬¬ They probably dont even make that anymore

working on the assumption that the stator is good (due to low resistance readings) im going to assume that it is the slip rings may need a clean, i've been doing a lot more digging on the 'net and found these two sites: Alternator testing Cleaning generator slip rings and brushes The first one outlines procedures for testing the stator windings and rotor, The second site contains info regarding cleaning the sliprings on an RV generator (considering the construction of an alternator im assuming the principal is the same) so, bit of wet and dry on the end of a stick should sort it out, watch this space ... i dont know why i joined the air force as a mechanic, i should have been a sparkie, i'd be great at that... kit out the chinooks with neons, alloys and the biggest soundsystem i could cram into the carge hold...

how much of that john smiths did you drink?

How much?!?!

i swear i saw Matti Griffin in there somehwere O.o

i changed the brushes so they are brand new and i can feel the springs compressing when i push the housing onto its mount on the alternator case. i didnt clean the slip ring when i did it though, perhaps this could be the problem? today i tried it again and was getting 1.0ohms of resistance through the stator windings, and at about 4000rpm managed to get 1 volt out of the rectifier

anybody?, any ideas would be helpfull, im at a dead end (not to mention my wits end... ¬¬) according to my workshop manual the small blocks and rotor are the "contactless ignition", so i doubt that has anything to do with it

Haha, seriously, pic looks nice

check the distance between the studs and see if you can find a head that matches that configuration

okay, so today i decided to investiagate my charging problems... having replaced the dial lights (most of which were blown) i couldnt get the battery light to go off, i tested the relay and that was fine, so i refered to my Jawa manual for some other checks and found my regulator to have burnt out one of its contacts (melted the solder on one of the spades) but even with that repaired i cannot get a charge. i then moved on to the regulator unit which should have a field current of around 2amps being fed to it from the alternator at terminal "DF", but that was stone dead. i tried switching in the ammeter straight off the alternator brushes but am still getting nothing off it. im pretty sure its my alternator, possibly the windings but am not sure if/how i can test them, ive just added new brushes and the alternator was partly dismantled when i got it, there seem to be two small blocks mounted on opposite sides of the alternator with a small off-centre plate rotating between them (the movement of this plate corresponds to the diodes flashing on my bridge rectifier) these blocks are adjustable and i did not have a referance when re-assembling the alternator, maybe this has something to do with it? is there a way to manually excite the alternator using another battery to see if i can then get it to charge? any ideas appreciated Steve-o (Battery was charged for testing, should have been enough to excite the alternator?)

... is not Jawa ... DO NOT WANT

when you lceaned it did you change any of the settings? refer to your manual for the correct needle position, idle screw mixture and any other settings you may need to change. aslong as you havent changed the jet size you shouldnt have too many problems setting it up

sorry to hear about your loss mate, find them and hang them i'll keep a lookout on the internets and my locale, best of luck - Steve

its Jim being forgetful, (one of the downsides to senileity)

Moustache?... O.o only mixture screw i can see is the idle mixture screw, and its running fine at high-RPM/full throttle so theres nothing wrong with the size of the jet

needle is in its lowest position already

its normal for the bike to sometimes require choke when cold, but idling at 4-5k doesnt sound right, possible air leak? if anything the bike should idle low with the choke on

says in the subtitle, FZX Fazor