Ttaskmaster

As per advice given in your other thread. Not much to add to that, really.

Precisely. Or near enough, anyway. You set the wrench handle to the torque measurement specified in the manual. Usually the end grip or a collar turns until the rim reaches the required number on a scale up the side. Then you just affix the normal socket and tighten up the bolt. As it gets tighter you slowly apply greater pressure. When it reaches the exact torque you dialled in, the wrench will go CLICK - It's audible and something you will feel. Try it out on a very low setting to start with, so you can see/feel what I mean. 5 should do it.

Welcome to the Club, chap!!

Err..... what *do* I have in my toolkit? Trying to remember, now!! Halfords do excellent tools at reasonable prices: Socket set Set of spanners (open at one end, ringed at the other). Screwdriver set - One with the range of diferent sized heads Smallish plastic or rubber mallet Pliers - Needlenose and flatnose Allen key set Soldering iron - Get a decent gas-powered one. Plastic or rubber gloves (go change your oil and you'll understand) Rags - cotton are best, use old tea towels, shirts etc. A torque wrench is a good investment. Get the best you can afford. Swarfega - Or use a few squirts of Fairy liquid with a teaspoon of sugar

Get up, come on get down with The Sick-neeeeeeeess, Get up, come on get down with the The Sick-neeeeeeeess, Get up, come on get down with the The Sick-neeeeeeeess, You mother get up come on get down with The Sick-neeeeeeeess Love that song!! Welcome to the forum!!

Hi SSq, Welcome to the club!!

More commonly, small manufacturers buy the design off the big companies and make their stuff to the same design (often with cheaper/crappier materials and lower build quality). Jin Cheng do this for Hondas, especially the 50cc Monkey Bikes. Daewoo also did this with things like the Vauxhall Astra. It's even possible that your bike was built by Malaguti using a mix of Yammie and their own parts, or that you have a genuine Yammie that had it's frame replaced with a Malaguti.

Welcome to the club!! 650 Custom - Good choice!!

I'm a bike thief. Here's what I will do to get your bike... Type 1: Joyrider. I will hotwire your bike, screwdriver the ignition or get it going somehow. I will then take your bike for a blast and torch it when I'm done. I look for: Anything unsecured, usually something fast like a sports bike or, since I'm a 16-year-old scrote, something easy to ride like a 125. How to stop me: Make the bike immovable, with so much security that it's not worth it. Chain, disclock and perhaps an alarm to scare me off. Immobilisers will slow me down. Covers mean I don't know what your bike is. Trackers may help recover your bike, but you may find a burnt-out wreck by the end of it. Type 2: Professional thief. My mates and I will lift your bike into a van, shielded from noise and tracking signals. It will take between 8 and 15 seconds (count that out, right now). I wil then flog it overseas or break it for parts. I look for: 125s (always a market for those), popular bikes and anything I can break for parts. I don't like unique or heavily customised bikes as they're easily recognised. How to stop me: You can't, really. Not if I *really* want your bike. Best you can do is deter me with a combination of securities, hide the bike and make it so much hassle to nick, that we'll go looking for an easier target. The lowdown: Chains: Keep the chain WELL OFF the ground (makes using bolt cutters very awkward) and chain it to something immovable like a lamp post. Put the chain through the frame, rather than something that can be removed from the bike (ie the wheel). I'll really need a plasma cutter to get that bitch off! Immobilisers: Lowers your insurance, but I'm simply lifting the bike up, so that's no use. Datatag: Marking parts can help as I might be scared of selling stuff on public channels, but who would really ask? Outside of that, I can just flog it at car boot sales and stuff. Cheap and still worth doing, though. Cover: If I can't see what bike you've got, I probably won't waste time looking. Disclock: Bit of a bugger. I can still lift the bike, but it's one more hassle. Alarm: Ah... noise is not good. Draws attention. Plus, it means YOU will know about it and the last thing I need is a pissed-off biker coming at me with a weapon. Ttaskmaster himself can be outside and hurting bike thieves in seconds!! Security lights or parked somewhere well-lit: Anything that would make my crime easier to see might make me think twice. Hide the bike: In a secured garage is best. Make sure the door has a lock that prevents the door from being opened. Not the one it came with (I can screwdriver those), but one of those 'doorstop' types that physically prevents the door from opening. Check also that there are no windows or other ways I can easily bash my way in. Consider also secutity lights and a garage alarm.

I have no idea about R6s. I just looked up R6 on their webshite and copied the text.

Always ride as if you really MEAN it!!! In other words, get the best kit you can. Try these from Avon: Front tyres Storm 2 Ultra VP2 Sport VP2 Supersport Pressure front: 2.5 bar (36psi) Front size: 120/60ZR17 (55W) Rear tyre Storm 2 Ultra VP2 Sport VP2 Supersport Pressure rear: 2.9 bar (42psi) Rear size: 160/60ZR17 (69W) As for pads - I always recommend the HH Sintered type. Slightly more money than organic pads, but SO much better!

See your 'choke & puke' there, but raise you... Bunny Chow!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunny_chow

See your Stonner Kebab, eat it, and then raise you... BILTONG!!!!!

Only if I change up too soon and whack open the throttle. Then the engine struggles a bit, grumbles, powers up and blasts off.

Raise you by TWO sausage, egg and bacon toasted sandwiches!!

OK, watched the vid. Seen the ad on TV.... But why is this *my* early years. I don't get it...

That's a YouTube video, isn't it..... I know, because it won't display on the PC at work. I'll deal with this when I get home to watch it, but please be aware that, as of last weekend, I am now trained to operate a variety of interesting weaponry, from pistols and rifles, to flamethrowers, rocket launchers and now a 60mm mortar. I hope I like this vid......

Only seen 'em in pairs, but they didn't look that expensive. Try Hein Gericke, MPS, Busters, M&P or just about any local parts shop. Might even get one for free off a garage or breaker's yard.

Wow... Those Acewell things actually look rather cool!! I'd have to completely overhaul my bike to suit the look, but I was planning on doing that one day anyway...

Lot of use of the word 'speed'. If speed is your thing, there are plenty of faster bikes than these. Once you have your full licence, you can get a horrendously fast 1300 Hayabusa or a Fireblade. Also, what do you need power to overtake for? Again, I re-iterate - A 125 will teach you proper observation and to time your manoeuvres so you don't have to rely on power when you finally move up. But as Leatherat says, learner legal bikes are for girls and fags, which is why he only has a pissy 650cc Cruiser rather than a more manly 1900 or even a 2300. Your bike, your life, your choice. Ride for yourself.

That's all part of the relaxed riding position. Even on the 650, my hands are about level with my elbows. I would need straight bars with a 6" rise to get them shoulder height... and I imagine it'd be bloody uncomfortable. I always found my 125 Drag was fine straight out the box, as far as bars go. Leg room was kinda scrunched and noticable on long trips (4hr+), but that's any 125. Certainly the best mini-Cruiser on the market!

They do Venoms for the following: XVZ 1300 Royal Star, Venture, Classic, Tour Deluxe XVZ 1300 Royal Star, Boulevard, Cheyenne XVZ 1300 T D Venture Royal Will they not fit?

Car tyres on a bike??!! Sounds like a recipie for an insanely stupid disaster to me... I use Avon Venoms on my bike and last got 19,000 odd out of them. Perhaps they do them for other models?

In what way is it broken? Can you get the key in? Does it turn, is there no initialisation? Full info needed.

Like many others, I will ALWAYS recommend spending 6 months to a year on a 125. I did DAS myself, but remained on the 125, partly for cash reasons but also because it forced me to learn skills you won't learn on a big bike. The main one is using planning and observation to get your manoeuvres right. From overtakes to turnings, a 125 Drag doesn't have the power to blast away, so you have to ride as conditions allow. This then stands you in excellent stead when you get a big bike - You'll have power if you need it, but you'll not rely on it. That was a trick taught to me by my instructor, who teaches the same thing to the Police riders! 125 Drag will usually cost £1500 for a good one. You will have to scour the internet a bit, but they are out there. Average starting prices are between £2-3500 for good to mint condition. Shadow is a good bike, but like it's larger counterparts, is considered reliable, hardy and very dull to ride.